Sleepy dragon doesn't poop + vet opinion needed

Drageth

Member
Hey everyone,

i would like to hear your opinion on my dragons behaviour and my veterinarian, which i contacted a week ago.

Data first:

- tank size is 120x60x60cm (4x2x2f)
- substrate is a bioactive deep mix of reptisoil, desert sand and excavator clay, topped with a layer of exoterra stone desert
- cleanup crew with springtails and woodlice (using translator here, hope i don't butcher the names)

Lighting:

- arcadia 12% uvb tube, his basking spot uv index is around 4-6,5 depending on where he sits on his branch, measured with solarmeter
- arcadia 75w par 30 halogen heat lamp for the main basking spot, dimmed to around 41°C (105°F) basking spot surface temp
- arcadia 100w par 38 halogen heat lamp for overall enclosure temps on the warm side
- arcadia 34w jungle dawn led for general lighting
- cycle is 12/12 (light from 10am to 10pm, all lights are completely off at night)

Air temperature on warm side is around 28°C (82°F), measured in the shadow below his main hangout spot (picture).
Surface temps are from around 23°C (73°F) on the cool side, to max 45°C (113°F) on the warm side, measured with infrared thermometer.
Night temps are around 21°C-22°C (70°F - 72°F)
Humidity is 35-45% depending on where its measured and when its watered, up to 60% at night time.

My dragon:

- male, age 14-15 months, i got him on the 6th of february this year at around 11-12 months of age
- current length is 44cm, measured from nose to tail end
- current weight is 345g

I feed mainly crickets and dubia roaches 2x a week/10 days as much as he wants (he usually eats from 4-8 good sized insects), dusted with calcium (without d3) and every 2-3 weeks reptivite (without d3) instead, with occasional (2-4 insects a week) wax worms and superworms, greens (endivia, lollo rosso, pak choi, ruccola etc) are offered every day.


The problem:

For his first 2-2,5 months with me he lived in a slightly smaller tank with less uvb (around 3,0, i realized only after getting the solarmeter).

So i got him for about 3+ months now, from day 1 he was kinda lethargic/sleepy and didn't had much of an appetite. First i thought he was in brumation, but he would bask on his spot up to 5-8 times a day, after each basking he would go back to his hide an just sleep, or be half asleep (eyes slowly closing and opening) and doesn't do anything besides that, no walking around etc. Sometimes he would only bask in the morning and hide in the hole he was digging the rest of the day.

His poop times increased from 7 days in between to 10, 14 and his last poop took almost 4 weeks until it came out, shortly after that i contacted a vet, which is now waiting to get a sample the next time he takes a poop.

The only time he would show what i would consider "normal behaviour" was around the first week in his new enclosure 2 weeks ago, when he would walk around a few times between his basking sessions for about 2 days. This changed after he got his 4 week poop out.

The other times he wasn't sleepy were when he wanted to poop, he always had the same spot and would only go there when he needed to poop. He would glass surf on that spot for around 10 minutes after his morning routine and if he didn't poop, would often go inside his cave, staying there til the next day.
After pooping he would return to his usual, sleepy behaviour, no glass surfing.


When he walks he does without any problems as far as i can tell, he doesn't drag any limbs and even jumps down his branch, as well as pulls himself up with his arms, he has a soft belly with no hard spots, his cloaca looks normal, not swollen or red.

Currently he is showing a different behaviour, it started right after he got his 4 week poop out 10 days ago:

The last 10 days he is way more sleepy, he just stays in his cave for days, no basking etc, just sleeping or half asleep. I am currently carefully getting him out of his cave and placing him on his hangout spot near his basking spot after every 48 hours to make sure he gets his UVB and knows where to bask if he wants to. I need to do this 1x a week anyway to give him his digestion medicine with some salad (it's called "Bene-Bac Gel", it's recommended by my vet and is very common for digestive problems here in EU).
After placing him there he stays on that spot for a few hours, he normally ends with going further up the branch himself to his basking spot for a bit, after that he just goes inside his cave sleeping.
I don't know if its better to just let him sleep in his cave except the 1x a week to give him his digestive medicine, i will ask my vet about this the coming days.

My vet:

The vet i contacted a week ago is specialized in exotic animals and has good reviews in general, so far we only had contact per email where i sent him pictures of my beardie etc. He sent me an article he wrote about beardies, as well as some tubes for poop samples so far.

My vet told me to:

- never give a beardie calcium dusted insects, he said this could lead to "calcium pyrophosphate deposition disease, CPPD", insted i should offer him a bowl of sepia powder, where he can get his calcium based on his instinct. Which i did, so far he didn't touch it.
- he said my beardie looks overweight and grew too fast for his age and i would feed him too much "at this age they only need 2 insects the size of their mouth a week"
- he said roaches are not a good feeder insect in general, because they are hard to digest, i leave them out for now
- he said i shouldn't give him salad, just herbs, "salad is not natural"
- he said i don't need to give him reptivite
- he told me a "bright sun desert uv spot" basking light would be better than my setup
- i told him i would drop some water on his nose like 1x a week, which he would drink just to be sure he is hydrated, he never touched his water bowl and his poop never looked dry, i was told to stop that and give him a waterbowl so he can drink when he needs to. "every animal needs access to water!"
- besides that he told me to give him "Bene-Bac Gel" once a week for now

I would love to hear your opinions on that and my beardie in general, i will add pictures below. Feel free to ask me for more specific pictures or information.


greetings



(couldn't find a way to get those pics in order, the last one was 2 days before he could get his 4 week poop out, the poop picture was the 4 week one)

IMG_20250510_163514.jpg


IMG20250507195044.jpg
IMG20250510170431.jpg
IMG20250510165737.jpg
IMG_20250512_190350.jpg
IMG20250504220838.jpg
IMG20250509142100.jpg
IMG20250508211320.jpg
 
Last edited:

KarrieRee

BD.org Sicko
Beardie name(s)
Hiccup he is 7 and Blaze is 5
Hey everyone,

i would like to hear your opinion on my dragons behaviour and my veterinarian, which i contacted a week ago.

Data first:

- tank size is 120x60x60cm (4x2x2f)
- substrate is a bioactive deep mix of reptisoil, desert sand and excavator clay, topped with a layer of exoterra stone desert
- cleanup crew with springtails and woodlice (using translator here, hope i don't butcher the names)

Lighting:

- arcadia 12% uvb tube, his basking spot uv index is around 4-6,5 depending on where he sits on his branch, measured with solarmeter
- arcadia 75w par 30 halogen heat lamp for the main basking spot, dimmed to around 41°C (105°F) basking spot surface temp
- arcadia 100w par 38 halogen heat lamp for overall enclosure temps on the warm side
- arcadia 34w jungle dawn led for general lighting
- cycle is 12/12 (light from 10am to 10pm, all lights are completely off at night)

Air temperature on warm side is around 28°C (82°F), measured in the shadow below his main hangout spot (picture).
Surface temps are from around 23°C (73°F) on the cool side, to max 45°C (113°F) on the warm side, measured with infrared thermometer.
Night temps are around 21°C-22°C (70°F - 72°F)
Humidity is 35-45% depending on where its measured and when its watered, up to 60% at night time.

My dragon:

- male, age 14-15 months, i got him on the 6th of february this year at around 11-12 months of age
- current length is 44cm, measured from nose to tail end
- current weight is 345g

I feed mainly crickets and dubia roaches 2x a week/10 days as much as he wants (he usually eats from 4-8 good sized insects), dusted with calcium (without d3) and every 2-3 weeks reptivite (without d3) instead, with occasional (2-4 insects a week) wax worms and superworms, greens (endivia, lollo rosso, pak choi, ruccola etc) are offered every day.


The problem:

For his first 2-2,5 months with me he lived in a slightly smaller tank with less uvb (around 3,0, i realized only after getting the solarmeter).

So i got him for about 3+ months now, from day 1 he was kinda lethargic/sleepy and didn't had much of an appetite. First i thought he was in brumation, but he would bask on his spot up to 5-8 times a day, after each basking he would go back to his hide an just sleep, or be half asleep (eyes slowly closing and opening) and doesn't do anything besides that, no walking around etc. Sometimes he would only bask in the morning and hide in the hole he was digging the rest of the day.

His poop times increased from 7 days in between to 10, 14 and his last poop took almost 4 weeks until it came out, shortly after that i contacted a vet, which is now waiting to get a sample the next time he takes a poop.

The only time he would show what i would consider "normal behaviour" was around the first week in his new enclosure 2 weeks ago, when he would walk around a few times between his basking sessions for about 2 days. This changed after he got his 4 week poop out.

The other times he wasn't sleepy were when he wanted to poop, he always had the same spot and would only go there when he needed to poop. He would glass surf on that spot for around 10 minutes after his morning routine and if he didn't poop, would often go inside his cave, staying there til the next day.
After pooping he would return to his usual, sleepy behaviour, no glass surfing.


When he walks he does without any problems as far as i can tell, he doesn't drag any limbs and even jumps down his branch, as well as pulls himself up with his arms, he has a soft belly with no hard spots, his cloaca looks normal, not swollen or red.

Currently he is showing a different behaviour, it started right after he got his 4 week poop out 10 days ago:

The last 10 days he is way more sleepy, he just stays in his cave for days, no basking etc, just sleeping or half asleep. I am currently carefully getting him out of his cave and placing him on his hangout spot near his basking spot after every 48 hours to make sure he gets his UVB and knows where to bask if he wants to. I need to do this 1x a week anyway to give him his digestion medicine with some salad (it's called "Bene-Bac Gel", it's recommended by my vet and is very common for digestive problems here in EU).
After placing him there he stays on that spot for a few hours, he normally ends with going further up the branch himself to his basking spot for a bit, after that he just goes inside his cave sleeping.
I don't know if its better to just let him sleep in his cave except the 1x a week to give him his digestive medicine, i will ask my vet about this the coming days.

My vet:

The vet i contacted a week ago is specialized in exotic animals and has good reviews in general, so far we only had contact per email where i sent him pictures of my beardie etc. He sent me an article he wrote about beardies, as well as some tubes for poop samples so far.

My vet told me to:

- never give a beardie calcium dusted insects, he said this could lead to "calcium pyrophosphate deposition disease, CPPD", insted i should offer him a bowl of sepia powder, where he can get his calcium based on his instinct. Which i did, so far he didn't touch it.
- he said my beardie looks overweight and grew too fast for his age and i would feed him too much "at this age they only need 2 insects the size of their mouth a week"
- he said roaches are not a good feeder insect in general, because they are hard to digest, i leave them out for now
- he said i shouldn't give him salad, just herbs, "salad is not natural"
- he said i don't need to give him reptivite
- he told me a "bright sun desert uv spot" basking light would be better than my setup
- i told him i would drop some water on his nose like 1x a week, which he would drink just to be sure he is hydrated, he never touched his water bowl and his poop never looked dry, i was told to stop that and give him a waterbowl so he can drink when he needs to. "every animal needs access to water!"
- besides that he told me to give him "Bene-Bac Gel" once a week for now

I would love to hear your opinions on that and my beardie in general, i will add pictures below. Feel free to ask me for more specific pictures or information.


greetings



(couldn't find a way to get those pics in order, the last one was 2 days before he could get his 4 week poop out, the poop picture was the 4 week one)

View attachment 99394

View attachment 99397 View attachment 99398 View attachment 99399 View attachment 99402 View attachment 99400 View attachment 99401 View attachment 99395
poop looks good --- its time for a new vet! Flagging Tracie the vet tech on the forum
@Drache613
 

Sue E.

Gray-bearded Member
Beardie name(s)
Kai
Wow, sorry, but based on your vet's recommendations, I think he is dead wrong!! We all calcium dust our insects with no issues. If he is not eating this sepia powder (never heard of it!), hes not getting calcium. Two insects a week??? Thats not enough. Does he eat his greens? What do you feed for greens? The long tube uvbs (zoo med reptisun t5 10.0 or arcadia t5 12%) have been proven to be the best uvb, and tested via solarmeter. Your beardie looks of healthy size and is def not overweight at 345 grams. If your beardie doesnt touch his water bowl, he is not getting water. You can drop water on his nose to drink, moisten his veggies, or offer a hornworm for hydration. Is there another vet you can see? Doesnt do any harm to leave a water bowl in there for an adult beardie, but you need another option to hydrate him.
 

Sue E.

Gray-bearded Member
Beardie name(s)
Kai
I looked up the ingedients of sepia powder. Seems it is made of calcium carbonate and calcium phosphate. Being that we try to limit the amount of phosphorus our beardies consume, the repticalcium is phosphorus free and formulated specifically for reptiles. Too much phosphorus, as you know, can contribute to poor calcium absorption. I would be very hesitant to try something like that when the repticalcium has been in use so long with good results and tried and tested. Just my opinion.
 

Drageth

Member
Original Poster
Wow, sorry, but based on your vet's recommendations, I think he is dead wrong!! We all calcium dust our insects with no issues. If he is not eating this sepia powder (never heard of it!), hes not getting calcium. Two insects a week??? Thats not enough. Does he eat his greens? What do you feed for greens? The long tube uvbs (zoo med reptisun t5 10.0 or arcadia t5 12%) have been proven to be the best uvb, and tested via solarmeter. Your beardie looks of healthy size and is def not overweight at 345 grams. If your beardie doesnt touch his water bowl, he is not getting water. You can drop water on his nose to drink, moisten his veggies, or offer a hornworm for hydration. Is there another vet you can see? Doesnt do any harm to leave a water bowl in there for an adult beardie, but you need another option to hydrate him.
Hi Sue, thanks for responding,

He does eat his greens daily, except the day after he got insects, i guess because he is still full. I feed the greens fresh and bite sized by hand til he wants no more: endivia, lollo rosso, pak choi, ruccola, dandelion, etc. (from a list of save food for beardies) i just can't find collard or mustard greens in supermarkets here in germany.

Like i said i did drop water on his nose once a week to make sure he is hydrated, before my vet said i should return to the water bowl instead, he didn't show any signs of dehydration, including his poop.

I chose this vet because he is the only exotic specialized vet in reach plus the good reviews, the next exotic vet would be a 100km (65 miles) drive.
 

Sue E.

Gray-bearded Member
Beardie name(s)
Kai
Hi Sue, thanks for responding,

He does eat his greens daily, except the day after he got insects, i guess because he is still full. I feed the greens fresh and bite sized by hand til he wants no more: endivia, lollo rosso, pak choi, ruccola, dandelion, etc. (from a list of save food for beardies) i just can't find collard or mustard greens in supermarkets here in germany.

Like i said i did drop water on his nose once a week to make sure he is hydrated, before my vet said i should return to the water bowl instead, he didn't show any signs of dehydration, including his poop.

I chose this vet because he is the only exotic specialized vet in reach plus the good reviews, the next exotic vet would be a 100km (65 miles) drive.
Well, you have to do what you have to do. I would def use the long tube reptisun or arcadia for your uvb though. Sounds like your veggie choices and your dragons weight are spot on. Dragons can eat some herbs such as basil and cilantro, but not as a staple feed, just added in with his regular veggies, kind of like you'd add some to your own salad. You can also feed some chopped or shredded squash or bell peppers to his greens if he like them. Not sure what is going on with him..if you get a fecal or bloodwork done, please ask for the results and post them here and we have folks like tracy (a vet tech), as well as some very experienced keepers..claudiusx and ahbd, who can interpret them and give your their opinion. He is eating and pooping, poop looks good. As far as feeding, the general consensus here is to feed 4-5 adult dubias, or 8 or so medium dubias, or 3 or 4 superworms, or 6-10 silkworms, total insects/worms twice a week, alternating your feeder insects so he gets a nice variety..each type of feeder has different nutrients, so variety is key, with both insects/worms and greens. You can give a hornworm or two once a week or so for hydration...they also contain some protein and calcium, and are low in fat (no need to dust the hornworms). Sounds like some of your vets recommendations seem more for birds or turtles, which some exotic vets see a lot more of. Side note, not ruling out an illness, but some beardies are very sensitive to weather and air pressure changes and some do not fully brumate..just get more sleepy and prefer the cool side but still bask and eat, just less than before. (Mine does this...sleeps a lot when the weather is cooler outside but goes back to normal when it gets warmer). Keep us posted and best of luck to you and your beardie! Here are some more experienced folk who may want to weigh in:
@AHBD
@xp29
@Drache613
 

xp29

BD.org Sicko
Photo Comp Winner
Beardie name(s)
Sinatra, Zsa Zsa, Stumpy, Lucy
I agree with everything @Sue E. said.
As far as being sleepy all the time, try raising him ambient temp a few degrees and see how he redponds.
My male used to give me similar issues but when I stacked my habitats, his became warmer. His whole disposition changed. He eats like a champ now and is much more active.
 

Drageth

Member
Original Poster
Thanks for the answers so far, for now i raised the temps a bit, as suggested.

I got the sepia powder out too and returned to dusting the insects with repti calcium.

Right now we are still waiting for him to poop again to send it in for testing, i will post the results here. Could take a while though, last poop was 12 days ago and took 4 weeks to come out.
 

xp29

BD.org Sicko
Photo Comp Winner
Beardie name(s)
Sinatra, Zsa Zsa, Stumpy, Lucy
Thanks for the answers so far, for now i raised the temps a bit, as suggested.

I got the sepia powder out too and returned to dusting the insects with repti calcium.

Right now we are still waiting for him to poop again to send it in for testing, i will post the results here. Could take a while though, last poop was 12 days ago and took 4 weeks to come out.
There are some folks here that can look at the results and help you with what it all means (if you need it 🙂) just post them up 🙂
I would recommend starting a new thread though. It should get more attention that way. Maybe in the title mention help with poop test results, that should catch the attention of the folks that can help 🙂
 

Drache613

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Hello,

I agree, I definitely don't think he should only get a few feeders weekly. The suggested amounts above are about right. Each dragon is a little different so monitoring the weight is a good indicator also, as to the amount of food being given.
I don't have any experience with the sepia powder. I would personally use a regular calcium instead, one that doesn't have any phosphorus in it.
If you happen to have the results of the fecal test, I can look over it for you, just to see what is listed.
He definitely is not overweight, his condition looks great.
The Arcadia 12% tube bulb should be perfectly fine. Is it a T5 high output tube or the T8 tube? How old is the bulb?
Keep trying with the greens, some are so stubborn about eating their greens! Maybe eventually he will start to eat them.

Let us know how he is doing.
Tracie
 

Drageth

Member
Original Poster
Hello,

I agree, I definitely don't think he should only get a few feeders weekly. The suggested amounts above are about right. Each dragon is a little different so monitoring the weight is a good indicator also, as to the amount of food being given.
I don't have any experience with the sepia powder. I would personally use a regular calcium instead, one that doesn't have any phosphorus in it.
If you happen to have the results of the fecal test, I can look over it for you, just to see what is listed.
He definitely is not overweight, his condition looks great.
The Arcadia 12% tube bulb should be perfectly fine. Is it a T5 high output tube or the T8 tube? How old is the bulb?
Keep trying with the greens, some are so stubborn about eating their greens! Maybe eventually he will start to eat them.

Let us know how he is doing.
Tracie

Hi Tracie, thanks for responding,

It's a T5 tube, it was new and is running since february.
As you can see in the solarmeter picture, the amount of UVB should be fine and like i said, is around 4,0-6,5. I could go higher by placing the tube underneath the mesh but i read that an index above 7,0 could be dangerous.
I'm aware about changing the tube once a year, with the solarmeter i will know for sure when it's time to do so.

Like i said he does eat his greens, no problem there.

greetings
 

Sue E.

Gray-bearded Member
Beardie name(s)
Kai
You are right, 7 and above can be dangerous. 4.0 to 6.5 sounds perfect for him. A solarmeter is wonderful, I have one also, and it really takes the guesswork out of uvb levels.
 

Drache613

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Hello,

Awesome, the T5 is perfect. I a glad you are able to
use the Solarmeter, they are great! I have a couple of
them, too. It sure saves you on purchasing bulbs before you actually have to. Plus, it helps to ensure the wavelengths & strength are where they need to be.
Bless him, so many are so stubborn about their greens.
Let us know how things are going for him!

Tracie
 

Drageth

Member
Original Poster
Update:

He did poop, this time it took 16 days.
I've sent it to the vet, which just replied with the laboratory results, a high amount of pinworm (Oxyurid) eggs was found and my vet recommended treatment, after i searched for information about pinworms i agreed, we agreed to send me the medication etc and i will do it myself.

His behaviour so far didn't change. He is sleepy and stays in his cave, i carefully took him out to put him near his basking spot every other day, so he gets uv and can bask if he wants to, just to keep his digestion going for the poop sample.
He usually stays there for a few hours, ending with a bit of basking before he goes back in his cave.
He is eating, greens and insects.
The day he did poop was completely different, he came out by himself to bask, followed by running and climbing around like crazy for almost an hour before he pooped. I know that's because he wanted to poop, but it was nice to see him doing something besides sleeping.

I raised the overall temps as suggested by @xp29 , so far it didn't change his behaviour, from my perspective it looks like he don't really likes the warm temps in general, he don't really basks much and even starts gaping at his chillout spot, which has a surface temp of around 31°C (87°F)

greetings
 

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