boneboy":a260yrsp said:@KarrieRee I'll post a photo right after this as I'm on my laptop right now
@CooperDragon I still have my old lizard tank around and plenty of materials, but because of my exams I just haven't had the time to properly assess it and get it set up for them.
@Aaradamian I have two seperate basking spots under one light right now, a hide, and three different places to climb up on; My lights and everything were set up by someone from the reptile shop in town and I have a temp gauge (automatically turns off heat if it goes past 32)
>>> 32 degC (?) , where is the probe for the thermostat that controls the basking globe ?
If that's the basking spot temperature , it's too cool, the dragons need to have a basking spot AIR temperature near and not exceeding 40 degC. And a warm zone about 35 degC. Too cold and they will not be able to digest or metabolise their food , vitamins and dietary calcium.
Clearly the person in the pet shop was totally clueless if that's an example of the advise they gave you.
@Ellentomologist @kingofnobbys I really appreciate the long response, all the info was really really helpful
I did kind of know the answer, I was just hoping for reasons and information - which I got, and I'm super grateful for.
I'll try and set up the extra tank in the next week or so, once my assignments are all in and my mum is back home. Thank you guys so much for all your help, I really really appreciate it and I'm sure the beardies would too!2
boneboy":3eo0ktuf said:
https://imgur.com/a/gAXi0Ml
<<< what's that red coloured gravelly stuff ?
It needs to be removed , especially if it's CalciSand or VitaSand .
Very dangerous to have hatchlings on any sort of particulate substrate that can be accidently ingested stuck to the food or with the live insects.
Paper toweling or loosely laid ceramic wall or floor tiles are the best option (no glue , no grout) , when a tile is soiled it's lifted out , taken outside and hosed down and then returned nice and clean.
It's currently higher than it is wide, which isn't ideal right now, but I was planning them to move them both into the longer tank ( i think it's about 6 inches longer both ways, same height) but by the looks of it he'll be staying in this one and she'll move into the other.
I already have an extra heat lamp, timers and UV meters, but there's a fair bit I need to buy before I can seperate them. I want tot ake care of them best I can but I had to work with what I had - a friend of mine 'accidentally' bred her two and her mum wanted to get the babies euthanised instead of selling so y'all can bet i jumped back into beardie care without thinking, my bad
Seeing as the cage will be hosting just one form now on, is there anything I should change (aside from taking out the stone?)
boneboy":1aifpvqg said:Your help has been brilliant, you guys. My mum and I never sought a second opinion but from now on I think i'll be taking whatever is said at the store with a grain of salt. I worked two double shifts this weekend to help pay for everything so I can get t by the end of the week.
So from what I understand so far, these are what I have to do (making a list to keep me on track)
1.) Separate the two and set up the extra tank
2.) replace substrate with paper towel + ceramic wall/floor tiles, or any textured non-adhesive shelf liner (any other options? the girl i got them from had hers on partial substrate and short fake grass?
<<< a piece of textured lino (like you likely have on the floor in the kitchen) is good and very cheap and is also durable , but be aware escaped insects are likely to hide under it.
But is it is impervious so poos will just wipe off , as will food .
3.) switch out the UVB - Reptisun 10.0 fluoro tube HO ( not coil, NOT zilla/reptiglo) T5-T-8 ; they've currently got the 13w ExoTerra 10.0 compact, is the same brand worth finding? I'm in Australia, so
<<<< I use 26W ExoTerra UVB200 compacts in my 120L ALLSET brand converted (rearing) tub, this is mounted UNDER THE LID in an ExoTerra NANO HOOD , my dragons can basking as close as 20 cm from the compact. This works extremely well and 26W UVB200 compacts are an excellent product and perfectly suitable for smaller rearing tanks and rearing tubs (80L to 150L capacity).
The linear t5ho 10% to 12% UVB tubes from Zoo Med and Arcadia Reptile are excellent and start at about 24W and 0.6m long.
LONG AND SHORT of it is a 13W compact WILL NEVER provide sufficient UVB & UVA for a bearded dragon unless the dragon can bask really close to it ( under 7 cm from the globe ).
ONLY BRANDS of UV globes (compacts / MVBs) and tubes (T8 and T5HO) that are good are Zoo Med , Exo Terra and Arcadia Reptile . The rest are cheap n nasty Chinese knockoffs made cheap with buggerall QC and using second rate quartz and substandard phosphors , essentially you pay for what you get, if you cheap out , expect a bad product that will produce a very bad UV spectrum.
I changed the temp from 32 to 35- but my meter won't go any higher than that and I have to set the old one back up again anyway. I asked my dad to keep an eye on them while i was at work and so far, apparently, there's been no glass surfing at all.
I STRONGLY URGE you to invest in a handful of these : https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LCD-Digital-Thermometer-for-Fridge-Freezer-Water-Temperature-Aquarium-Fish-Tank/143282102561?hash=item215c476121:m:me3vVMzvra-Gn0CmDg5pnSQ , they are very accurate and cheap enough that you can have several in the tank monitoring different temperatures.
If your thermometer probe is part of a thermostat setup, and the temperature mentioned (35 degC) is the WARM ZONE AIR TEMPERATURE, as opposed to the BASKING SPOT AIR TEMPERATURE, it's fine at 35 degC.
You still need to check the basking spot air temperature with another thermometer and check the warm zone temperature as well with separate thermometer.
Is there anything is really important ( or even just an extra thought) that I should know about? Finger's crossed I'll be able to get it all or almost all in one go.
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