Daytime: 80°F/26°C (Cool Side) to 90°F/32°C (Warm side)yanchus17":22yb1aga said:What are the gradients one would like to achieve in this size of tank?
What types of things do you do to raise the overall temperature of the enclosure, and what are the main areas you like to check for temperatures (basking spot, cool, middle, etc).
2/3 to 3/4 See: https://www.reptileadvisor.com/bearded-dragon-lighting/For the UVB bulb, would it be more important to have the full length of the enclosure, or 3/4 of it?
yanchus17":23alcjzu said:Thanks Karrie! What kinds of temperatures do you like to keep during the day and overnight? What's your cool side, general temperature, etc at during the day?
MrSpectrum said:2. Try different wattage basking floods (not spots). Getting heat & basking lighting right can take some trial & error.
So a 150 Watt Intense Basking spot - I am assuming they are "spots" because they are more focused? What type of basking flood do you recommend? Will that help with overall temperature as opposed to using a "spot"
Claudiusx":vbikan68 said:Most of us get by with just 1 bulb to provide heat.
Of course, the wattage, and your temps will depend a lot on your house temp, and how well your enclosure holds its heat. For instance, in my wooden 4x2x2's, I use only 1 40w basking bulb. And it almost gets my temps too hot. It's all a bit of trial and error.
-Brandon
Claudiusx":1lirgeyi said:Yes, you can use some type of spacer so that the lamp sits a bit higher, such as some small wooden blocks.
Just make sure the lamp stays secure and can't easily tip over.
-Brandon
Claudiusx":1tbq3w80 said:The flash point for most woods is way higher than what a typical bulb can output heat wise. So there would definitely be nothing to worry about especially as the wood would only be touching the fixture itself, not the bulb. Even if it was touching the bulb, most bulbs come barely even half way to the flashpoint of wood.
-Brandon
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