I have a 2.5 year old Male named Bob. I have had him about 1 year. When we adopted him late October last year we had a hard time getting him to do much. He ate very little and was kind of sluggish. Eventually he started eating fine and had a lot of energy. Early September of this year his appetite started to slow down again. After about 2 weeks it went down to refusing all food. He was in for a checkup and fecal which all came back fine. there was a small amount of Flagelate (Worm?) which the vet said she would typically not bother treating but since he was not eating thought it was worth treating with Metronidozole(Sp.) I was also sent home with some critical care to syringe feed which has not been easy he is pretty stubborn (Any tips on getting him to open his mouth?). However we have been doing that along with Reptiboost etc. The vet at this point has recommended doing xRays and Blood testing. Other opinions from a local reptile shop have been brumation but with the amount of weight he has lost I am not sure that letting him to do that is the smartest choice. He was about 480g and is now about 420g. Currently he is getting 12 hours on/12 off for lighting. Any thoughts on whether it would be beneficial to switch to a 14 hours on, 10 hours off to possibly bring him out of this state? Or any other suggestions to get him back to eating?
enclosure 4x2x2 zen habitats
lighting 100w basking bulb/ 36" T5 12% acadia
Tile
basking side has a tile platform and cold side is a hammock with hides on both sides.
But also, what is your basking spot temperature? What's the temp on the cool side? A 100w basking bulb is possibly too much, but really what matters in that regard is whether you're getting the right temperatures.
But also, what is your basking spot temperature? What's the temp on the cool side? A 100w basking bulb is possibly too much, but really what matters in that regard is whether you're getting the right temperatures.
Thanks for the reply. He was eating a small amount of veggies greens and occasional fruit. Bugs 3 times per week. Mostly dubia but also BSFl, waxworms and treat horned worm once in a while. Basking temp with digital probe is about 105-108f. Cool side around 80-85f. Let me know your thoughts.
Thanks for the reply. He was eating a small amount of veggies greens and occasional fruit. Bugs 3 times per week. Mostly dubia but also BSFl, waxworms and treat horned worm once in a while. Basking temp with digital probe is about 105-108f. Cool side around 80-85f. Let me know your thoughts.
It sounds like hes going into brumation -- all dragons slow down this time of year -- you might want to lower the basking temp - older dragons seem to not like the real hot temps try 95-100-- also where is the UVB I am assuming its inside the tank -- your distance should be 12-15 inches directly above the basking decor --
Georgina Rayner of Swell Reptiles, UK in November, 2015 Practical tips to help keep your bearded dragon healthy during brumation Reptile brumation occurs differently depending on each reptile’s bodily processes, from species to species. Environmental factors and the natural genetic instinct in...
Yes , some of mine have started early while others have not. Some of mine will sleep for a while but also wake up and eat if I keep the lights on. The thing to watch for is a lot of weight loss, although mine always lose some weight. They can act differently upon waking after 2-4 months , some of mine eat within a day or two, others have no appetite for a week or more. That's the thing, brumation can be full on or off + on and can be confusing but a healthy dragon will almost never have any problem.
Okay. Just making sure. I'm one of the beardie parents who somehow managed to never have his beardies decide to brumate, despite having had 3 of them for 10-11 years each.
I've seen others that had the same experience as you. I have a large basement where their enclosures are so it stays cooler down there and every adult dragon has a good sleep as the weather changes. I used to turn all lights off and they would not budge for an average of 3 months, then I'd turn all lights back on. Now I do leave lights on and my guys still get under a log or sheets of newspaper and I just check on them regularly.
Thanks for all the feedback. Our uvb light is mounted inside the enclosure and i have measured to make sure it is close enough. I got some extra hard looks at a squirmy dubia today so thinking might be turning a corner. Otherwise will continue with syringe feedings and EOD baths for hydration!
Brumation is a hard situation for many because they all seem to do something different & do keep us on our toes!
Do you have any pictures of him perhaps? It can get frustrating having to assist or syringe feed them, absolutely.
Is he maintaining his weight right now? Keep at it, he should start to improve here for you soon! Let us know how
he is doing.
Brumation is a hard situation for many because they all seem to do something different & do keep us on our toes!
Do you have any pictures of him perhaps? It can get frustrating having to assist or syringe feed them, absolutely.
Is he maintaining his weight right now? Keep at it, he should start to improve here for you soon! Let us know how
he is doing.