There will be no second level in the 60x30x30 / 64x32x32 designs. They're taller than the traditional 24" for the purpose of supporting 6-8" substrate depths plus hides, rocks, or branches to climb on top. With just 24" height on the tank, taking away space for 6-8" of substrate and the internally mounted basking bulb being maybe 5" from the ceiling, there's only 11-13" of open space which will be mostly empty so they're not too close to the 100w basking bulb. Very little space for climbing any hides, branches, rocks, or anything else.I built the same size for my first beardie. She never used the bottom at all and rarely the 2nd level. The height was a total waste of space. I recommend sticking closer to the 24 inch height range.
Dezzy enjoys being more vertical and is frequently found basking on slanted surfaces or on top of hides. Ive only had Percy for a few days, but he's constantly up/down the rock pile in his tank. I'd say they each need some vertical space available.Some dragons love to climb, and others don't. The height is certainly nice to have for dragons who like to climb around because you can introduce more temp/uvb options without increasing the footprint of the enclosure. For dragons who don't climb much, then making a more spacious floorplan makes sense. That's just kind of an individual call.
Within current design plans, this would require off-centering the 34" UVB to one side and keeping a second heat bulb off to the other side. I considered heat + uvb, no heat + uvb, and neither in this but forgot about heat + no uvb.As far as lighting placement goes, Set your UVB distance for optimal output and then put the basking light near it. You could either use multiple smaller baskers or a single wide beam to achieve similar effect. If you put the basking light next to the UVB, that should be good enough. They just move around to change temps and UVB exposure anyway. I have 3 side by side lights in my free range (incandescent basker, MVB, Infrared) and Darwin just moves back and forth between them. Enough of the heat and light overlap it's not a big issue. The advantage is that sometimes they like to bask under high heat but not a lot of UVB (And sometimes the opposite) so you can achieve that more easily by separating them.
I hadn't yet thought of having a frame around the glass. The idea so far was plastic/metal rails with two slots similar to that of a sliding closet door with two 1/8 acrylic panels cut to size.For the doors, I'd probably use glass in a thin frame if possible because it will better stand up to scratches and not be as prone to discoloration in the long run. If they are simple doors that are easily replaceable, then that's probably less of a concern.
I suppose it's rare for doorways to have <30" width, so if my height stays at 30" or lower that's the short side to fit through the door. Side from fitting through doors, dimensions/weight/etc are of no concern. This way I can still give more floor space than 60x30 if I'd like, though im still weighing options as to what I'd like to do. If I use the full 96" width then that's less cuts when building so it would potentially be an easier build than something smaller.If you're thinking ahead to the possibility of moving them (through doorways as mentioned) you might be able to build them in a somewhat modular way. You could build a frame with grooves in the posts that you can slide the panels into. That way if you want to move the enclosure you could slide the panels out and disassemble the frame more easily.
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