New Beardie

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Gizelle

Member
So if you’ve guys seen my previous posts, my old lizard, Blade Killer-Kane Bernard Diaz died of chocking on his mealworms... so I’ve got a new one, and he’s pretty cute, and if any of you guys have seen my og post, then you’ll know that my old buddy who’s passsed, had a nob tail, with the end but sticking up, and he wasn’t the most healthy beardie ever, so I was careful to pick at my local pet store (no I didn’t buy from pet smart/petco) even though they only had 2 beardies, it was a hard choice, and I picked the one that was kinda in healthy weight, my meaning is that the one I didn’t pick had a sagging belly and skinny arms, while the one I picked had more fleshed out arms and had a stronger looking neck and a little bit less big in the stomach, but he’s still got some issues, like the fact that he’s missing a nail in one of his feet, his tail is kinda crooked in the middle, he’s very skittish, wich isn’t a issue but my last lizard just stood on my homework and really vibed while this guys just runs away the second I leave him unsupervised, it’s good that he’s stout and has energy, but Jeez is he skiddish, i also have decided to minimize the use of mealworms cause that’s what killed my buddy... oh and one last thing, HE WONT EAT, even though I just got him today and the pet store probably has him fed, he won’t budge, I put 10 live and accidentally one dead, crickets in his cage, and there just crawling on his nose and stuff EDIT: I forgot to mention/ask if this was relocation stress? I’ve heard of it happening but my last beardie ate the second he found some wild silverfish in my old dusty cage (not the current one because at the time we haven’t bought him his forever home just yet)... Edit over... and he’s just lolligaging on the wall, like Rn he’s on his long stick, with his head on the glass, sleeping, yeah I heard this is regular, but it’s just kinda strange place to sleep, but nonetheless, he’s fine, though I had to put paper towels on his calci sand, because when I had my old lizard, I wanted to take the stuff out, but never had time,so now with a fresh start, I’ve put paper towels over all of the sand, there is still a little bit sifting through, but it’s much safer, as earlier I saw him licking the sand, wich was a alarm to me to take action, and now I’ve felt I’ve avoided possible death for him, which feels good to be safe for him, oh and just a random thing, he likes to glide across the glass and attack it, I heard it’s not a issue just saying, also RIP Blade Killer-Kane Bernard Diaz, may you Rest In Peace
PS: I was just ranpmbling lol, and here’s some pics of him:

This is him, on my carpet
106575-6161810141.jpg

This is him vibin
106575-3928772900.jpg

And this is him chillin in a weird spot
106575-36547212.jpg
 

LimKH

Member
I am so sorry for your loss on your baby bearded dragon.
Next time, try your best to get your bearded dragons from breeders instead of pet shops as they are much healthier. Don't feed your bearded dragon mealworms as they can get impaction. Which UVB lamp and basking lamp are you using? How high is the temperature in the hotter spot and how low is the temperature in the coller spot? If your baby bearded dragon won't eat, it is most likely to be relocation stress. It may take over a week for your bearded dragon to settle down. Let them bask for at least an hour(the longer the better[about 1and a half hour to two hours is good]) during the day before you feed it and at night after you feed it
The sleeping position of bearded dragons are sometimes really strange as mine sleeps on the sock of rice. Last but not least, which sand are you using for your substrate? Don't use random sand as substrate as it can cause impaction.
Edit: Switch mealworms to either dubias, pin head crickets, Phenix worms etc. And also remember to dust your beardie's insects.
 

KarrieRee

BD.org Sicko
Beardie name(s)
Hiccup he is 6 and Blaze is 4
Welcome back w/ your new guy-----------------please NO MEAL WORMS-- you need to be feeding fresh greens every day here is a website for nutrition http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html- a staple feeder like crickets dubia roaches or BSFL --- BSFL can be ordered here and order large if you decide to get some https://symtonbsf.com/-- they are a great feeder to put on top of their greens every morning and you can feed as many as you want and they do not need to be dusted as they are calcium enriched --- you can use small super worms 1-3 if you can find them but please NO MORE MEALWORMS they are too harsh on babies stomachs and should be fed to older dragons --- these worms will get him to the bowl to eat his vegies -- you will need to use a glass dish so they cant get out of -- after he eats from his bowl for like an hr or so feed him his staple feeder -- feed as many as he will eat in a 10 minute time frame and make sure your dusting them w/ calcium D3 5 x per week and vitamins 2 x per week --- please review your tank set up w/ us - the lighting and basking temps and how your taking them -- this is the most important thing in that tank is the UVB and basking temps --- it will keep your dragon healthy
Karrie
 

Gizelle

Member
Original Poster
LimKH":3mb3dh92 said:
I am so sorry for your loss on your baby bearded dragon.
Next time, try your best to get your bearded dragons from breeders instead of pet shops as they are much healthier. Don't feed your bearded dragon mealworms as they can get impaction. Which UVB lamp and basking lamp are you using? How high is the temperature in the hotter spot and how low is the temperature in the coller spot? If your baby bearded dragon won't eat, it is most likely to be relocation stress. It may take over a week for your bearded dragon to settle down. Let them bask for at least an hour(the longer the better[about 1and a half hour to two hours is good]) during the day before you feed it and at night after you feed it
The sleeping position of bearded dragons are sometimes really strange as mine sleeps on the sock of rice. Last but not least, which sand are you using for your substrate? Don't use random sand as substrate as it can cause impaction.
Edit: Switch mealworms to either dubias, pin head crickets, Phenix worms etc. And also remember to dust your beardie's insects.

Ok so first:
My UVB is: well I actually have 2, one I don’t use wich would you recommend?
The one I do use is 100 watt Repti Basking Spot Lamp, and the one I DONT use but not sure I should is: ReptiSun 10.0 UVB Compact Fluorescent Bulb i think...
Which one should I use?
My hot basking temperature: not sure, I’ll check when I get home
My cool other side temperature: 70 degrees Fahrenheit Rn, but that’s just because it was cold last night so it’s just warming up
My sand is repti-calcium BUT I decided to put a cover over all of it with paper towels, even if there’s a little bit of seeping in, it’s practically covering all the sand, for safety
My tank is a 40gal FIY
If you’re wondering why I haven’t talked about night heat is a long story, but here it is:

So when my mom got a kit (wich was a absolute ripoff) it came with one of those red lights for night, but I looked into it and found out beardies can see it, but I couldn’t afford. The heat emitter so I kept using it for like a day or two, and it WENT OUT, so then it was a problem, cause at the time my first beardie was alive and needed heat, so I had to just let him have no light and heat at night,(sometimes leaving the light on in cooler nights) but with this new beardie while I was in the pet store, I saw one for 25$ and new it was worth it BUT the lady there was like “that’s gonna fry your beardie” and in my head I new everyone said it was just fine so I was like “but I got a 40gal” and she said I needed a 40gal breeder, and she said it was Thiccer, wich I fought sounded a little bogus but she was really set on me buying a red or blue light so I just used a excuse saying that I’ll fix my old red light (I won’t) And I’ll have to come back later and avoid her.

Also I am set on ordering some Phoenix worms, but my local pet store has hornworms, so imma buy some of them, and there are crickets in his tank right now, and I’m only gonna feed him very little amounts of mealworms every once and awhile

Also karrie you replied while writing this so I’ll start replying to you the second I post this :D
 

Gizelle

Member
Original Poster
KarrieRee":1at6xkjd said:
Welcome back w/ your new guy-----------------please NO MEAL WORMS-- you need to be feeding fresh greens every day here is a website for nutrition http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html- a staple feeder like crickets dubia roaches or BSFL --- BSFL can be ordered here and order large if you decide to get some https://symtonbsf.com/-- they are a great feeder to put on top of their greens every morning and you can feed as many as you want and they do not need to be dusted as they are calcium enriched --- you can use small super worms 1-3 if you can find them but please NO MORE MEALWORMS they are too harsh on babies stomachs and should be fed to older dragons --- these worms will get him to the bowl to eat his vegies -- you will need to use a glass dish so they cant get out of -- after he eats from his bowl for like an hr or so feed him his staple feeder -- feed as many as he will eat in a 10 minute time frame and make sure your dusting them w/ calcium D3 5 x per week and vitamins 2 x per week --- please review your tank set up w/ us - the lighting and basking temps and how your taking them -- this is the most important thing in that tank is the UVB and basking temps --- it will keep your dragon healthy
Karrie
Thanks for sending links for some of the products (though I got 404 not found for both of them) Also thanks for dusting advice, while I was at the store I bought “stronger” dust that like has all the vitamins they need (weirdly not vitamin D3?!) and the lady said only to use it in small quantities 2x a month, wich sounded weird to me, how often do you think I should, also about lighting and heating, I put that in my response to LimKH,
Thanks for the help!
 

KarrieRee

BD.org Sicko
Beardie name(s)
Hiccup he is 6 and Blaze is 4
Gizelle":zvlsraiq said:
LimKH":zvlsraiq said:
I am so sorry for your loss on your baby bearded dragon.
Next time, try your best to get your bearded dragons from breeders instead of pet shops as they are much healthier. Don't feed your bearded dragon mealworms as they can get impaction. Which UVB lamp and basking lamp are you using? How high is the temperature in the hotter spot and how low is the temperature in the coller spot? If your baby bearded dragon won't eat, it is most likely to be relocation stress. It may take over a week for your bearded dragon to settle down. Let them bask for at least an hour(the longer the better[about 1and a half hour to two hours is good]) during the day before you feed it and at night after you feed it
The sleeping position of bearded dragons are sometimes really strange as mine sleeps on the sock of rice. Last but not least, which sand are you using for your substrate? Don't use random sand as substrate as it can cause impaction.
Edit: Switch mealworms to either dubias, pin head crickets, Phenix worms etc. And also remember to dust your beardie's insects.

Ok so first:
My UVB is: well I actually have 2, one I don’t use wich would you recommend?
The one I do use is 100 watt Repti Basking Spot Lamp, and the one I DONT use but not sure I should is: ReptiSun 10.0 UVB Compact Fluorescent Bulb i think...
NO COIL --- you need a Reptisun 10.0 TUBE either a T 8 or a T 5 you will need a fixture that has a reflector ---- bulb looks like this https://s7d2.scene7.com/is/image/PetSmart/5123303--
Which one should I use? You need the basking bulb which is the 100 watt Repti Basking Spot Lamp
My hot basking temperature: not sure, I’ll check when I get home
you need this for taking accurate temps https://s7d2.scene7.com/is/image/PetSmart/5176729
My cool other side temperature: 70 degrees Fahrenheit Rn, but that’s just because it was cold last night so it’s just warming up
My sand is repti-calcium BUT I decided to put a cover over all of it with paper towels, even if there’s a little bit of seeping in, it’s practically covering all the sand, for safety GET RID of the SAND --- all together - use paper towels or newspaper for now -- you can get some textured non adhesive shelf liner from Home Depot cheap
My tank is a 40gal FIY
If you’re wondering why I haven’t talked about night heat is a long story, but here it is:

So when my mom got a kit (wich was a absolute ripoff) it came with one of those red lights for night, but I looked into it and found out beardies can see it, but I couldn’t afford. The heat emitter so I kept using it for like a day or two, and it WENT OUT, so then it was a problem, cause at the time my first beardie was alive and needed heat, so I had to just let him have no light and heat at night,(sometimes leaving the light on in cooler nights) but with this new beardie while I was in the pet store, I saw one for 25$ and new it was worth it BUT the lady there was like “that’s gonna fry your beardie” and in my head I new everyone said it was just fine so I was like “but I got a 40gal” and she said I needed a 40gal breeder, and she said it was Thiccer, wich I fought sounded a little bogus but she was really set on me buying a red or blue light so I just used a excuse saying that I’ll fix my old red light (I won’t) And I’ll have to come back later and avoid her.
NO COLORED bulbs -- they hurt their eyes and disturb their sleep ----- what are the temps at nite in the tank ---? Dragons sleep in the dark --- your temp in the tank at nite should not be below 65 ---- Warning the UVB fixture will be the most expensive thing you will need and you need it NOW -- w/ the bulb -- I would get a 24" fixture ----

Also I am set on ordering some Phoenix worms, but my local pet store has hornworms, so imma buy some of them, and there are crickets in his tank right now, and I’m only gonna feed him very little amounts of mealworms every once and awhile ---- NO MEAL WORMS --- your dragon needs fresh green every day here is a website for nutrition http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html-- you can add some small super worms like 1-3 on top of salad to entice him to eat - make sure you use a glass bowl so they cant get out of and you can order some of these as well they are a great staple feeder BSFL use as many as you want on top of his salad here is a website for those
https://symtonbsf.com/m order large if you order them - they do not need to be dusted as they are calcium enriched --- feed your salad first thing in the morning --- then feed your staple feeder like crickets or dubia roaches ----- BUT YOU MUST GET A UVB ASAP----- THE Reptisun tube NO COIL they will kill your dragon --- and that UVB is VERY important as well ---- it will control his digestion and prevent MBD
Karrie

Also karrie you replied while writing this so I’ll start replying to you the second I post this :D
 

Gizelle

Member
Original Poster
KarrieRee":2ba2yyxc said:
Gizelle":2ba2yyxc said:
LimKH":2ba2yyxc said:
I am so sorry for your loss on your baby bearded dragon.
Next time, try your best to get your bearded dragons from breeders instead of pet shops as they are much healthier. Don't feed your bearded dragon mealworms as they can get impaction. Which UVB lamp and basking lamp are you using? How high is the temperature in the hotter spot and how low is the temperature in the coller spot? If your baby bearded dragon won't eat, it is most likely to be relocation stress. It may take over a week for your bearded dragon to settle down. Let them bask for at least an hour(the longer the better[about 1and a half hour to two hours is good]) during the day before you feed it and at night after you feed it
The sleeping position of bearded dragons are sometimes really strange as mine sleeps on the sock of rice. Last but not least, which sand are you using for your substrate? Don't use random sand as substrate as it can cause impaction.
Edit: Switch mealworms to either dubias, pin head crickets, Phenix worms etc. And also remember to dust your beardie's insects.

Ok so first:
My UVB is: well I actually have 2, one I don’t use wich would you recommend?
The one I do use is 100 watt Repti Basking Spot Lamp, and the one I DONT use but not sure I should is: ReptiSun 10.0 UVB Compact Fluorescent Bulb i think...
NO COIL --- you need a Reptisun 10.0 TUBE either a T 8 or a T 5 you will need a fixture that has a reflector ---- bulb looks like this https://s7d2.scene7.com/is/image/PetSmart/5123303--
Which one should I use? You need the basking bulb which is the 100 watt Repti Basking Spot Lamp
My hot basking temperature: not sure, I’ll check when I get home
you need this for taking accurate temps https://s7d2.scene7.com/is/image/PetSmart/5176729
My cool other side temperature: 70 degrees Fahrenheit Rn, but that’s just because it was cold last night so it’s just warming up
My sand is repti-calcium BUT I decided to put a cover over all of it with paper towels, even if there’s a little bit of seeping in, it’s practically covering all the sand, for safety GET RID of the SAND --- all together - use paper towels or newspaper for now -- you can get some textured non adhesive shelf liner from Home Depot cheap
My tank is a 40gal FIY
If you’re wondering why I haven’t talked about night heat is a long story, but here it is:

So when my mom got a kit (wich was a absolute ripoff) it came with one of those red lights for night, but I looked into it and found out beardies can see it, but I couldn’t afford. The heat emitter so I kept using it for like a day or two, and it WENT OUT, so then it was a problem, cause at the time my first beardie was alive and needed heat, so I had to just let him have no light and heat at night,(sometimes leaving the light on in cooler nights) but with this new beardie while I was in the pet store, I saw one for 25$ and new it was worth it BUT the lady there was like “that’s gonna fry your beardie” and in my head I new everyone said it was just fine so I was like “but I got a 40gal” and she said I needed a 40gal breeder, and she said it was Thiccer, wich I fought sounded a little bogus but she was really set on me buying a red or blue light so I just used a excuse saying that I’ll fix my old red light (I won’t) And I’ll have to come back later and avoid her.
NO COLORED bulbs -- they hurt their eyes and disturb their sleep ----- what are the temps at nite in the tank ---? Dragons sleep in the dark --- your temp in the tank at nite should not be below 65 ---- Warning the UVB fixture will be the most expensive thing you will need and you need it NOW -- w/ the bulb -- I would get a 24" fixture ----

Also I am set on ordering some Phoenix worms, but my local pet store has hornworms, so imma buy some of them, and there are crickets in his tank right now, and I’m only gonna feed him very little amounts of mealworms every once and awhile ---- NO MEAL WORMS --- your dragon needs fresh green every day here is a website for nutrition http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html-- you can add some small super worms like 1-3 on top of salad to entice him to eat - make sure you use a glass bowl so they cant get out of and you can order some of these as well they are a great staple feeder BSFL use as many as you want on top of his salad here is a website for those
https://symtonbsf.com/m order large if you order them - they do not need to be dusted as they are calcium enriched --- feed your salad first thing in the morning --- then feed your staple feeder like crickets or dubia roaches ----- BUT YOU MUST GET A UVB ASAP----- THE Reptisun tube NO COIL they will kill your dragon --- and that UVB is VERY important as well ---- it will control his digestion and prevent MBD
Karrie

Also karrie you replied while writing this so I’ll start replying to you the second I post this :D

Woah that’s a lot, I’ll try to get all this stuff ASAP
And I will give updates!
 

KarrieRee

BD.org Sicko
Beardie name(s)
Hiccup he is 6 and Blaze is 4
DO NOT listen to the woman at the pet store she is giving bad advice
Karrie
 

Gizelle

Member
Original Poster
KarrieRee":2yqytpyi said:
DO NOT listen to the woman at the pet store she is giving bad advice
Karrie

Ok! You’re right, there’s tons of animals and I bet you she DOSENT know the specifics for everyone in there, thanks!
 

LimKH

Member
Gizelle":2q60lp18 said:
LimKH":2q60lp18 said:
I am so sorry for your loss on your baby bearded dragon.
Next time, try your best to get your bearded dragons from breeders instead of pet shops as they are much healthier. Don't feed your bearded dragon mealworms as they can get impaction. Which UVB lamp and basking lamp are you using? How high is the temperature in the hotter spot and how low is the temperature in the coller spot? If your baby bearded dragon won't eat, it is most likely to be relocation stress. It may take over a week for your bearded dragon to settle down. Let them bask for at least an hour(the longer the better[about 1and a half hour to two hours is good]) during the day before you feed it and at night after you feed it
The sleeping position of bearded dragons are sometimes really strange as mine sleeps on the sock of rice. Last but not least, which sand are you using for your substrate? Don't use random sand as substrate as it can cause impaction.
Edit: Switch mealworms to either dubias, pin head crickets, Phenix worms etc. And also remember to dust your beardie's insects.

Ok so first:
My UVB is: well I actually have 2, one I don’t use wich would you recommend?
The one I do use is 100 watt Repti Basking Spot Lamp, and the one I DONT use but not sure I should is: ReptiSun 10.0 UVB Compact Fluorescent Bulb i think...
Which one should I use?
My hot basking temperature: not sure, I’ll check when I get home
My cool other side temperature: 70 degrees Fahrenheit Rn, but that’s just because it was cold last night so it’s just warming up
My sand is repti-calcium BUT I decided to put a cover over all of it with paper towels, even if there’s a little bit of seeping in, it’s practically covering all the sand, for safety
My tank is a 40gal FIY
If you’re wondering why I haven’t talked about night heat is a long story, but here it is:

So when my mom got a kit (wich was a absolute ripoff) it came with one of those red lights for night, but I looked into it and found out beardies can see it, but I couldn’t afford. The heat emitter so I kept using it for like a day or two, and it WENT OUT, so then it was a problem, cause at the time my first beardie was alive and needed heat, so I had to just let him have no light and heat at night,(sometimes leaving the light on in cooler nights) but with this new beardie while I was in the pet store, I saw one for 25$ and new it was worth it BUT the lady there was like “that’s gonna fry your beardie” and in my head I new everyone said it was just fine so I was like “but I got a 40gal” and she said I needed a 40gal breeder, and she said it was Thiccer, wich I fought sounded a little bogus but she was really set on me buying a red or blue light so I just used a excuse saying that I’ll fix my old red light (I won’t) And I’ll have to come back later and avoid her.

Also I am set on ordering some Phoenix worms, but my local pet store has hornworms, so imma buy some of them, and there are crickets in his tank right now, and I’m only gonna feed him very little amounts of mealworms every once and awhile

Also karrie you replied while writing this so I’ll start replying to you the second I post this :D

Use the ReptiSun 10.0 and for basking use the intense basking spot bulb. I'm not entirely sure for the 100W one as I'm not an expert, I'm giving all the information I have. You can make another topic about that ?. I don't recommend hornworms as a staple. For a treat, yes! They absolutely love hornworms. Buy smaller hornworms for your baby beardie. Don't use blue or red lights as they are bad for bearded dragons. If you need heat at night, use a CHE with the correct fixture. I think you can use calcium sand as substrate for baby beardies(might need to make a new topic for that). If not just use paper towel as substrate, it's not that good looking but it's one of the best substrate out there.
 

Gizelle

Member
Original Poster
LimKH":ckpm4ubb said:
Gizelle":ckpm4ubb said:
LimKH":ckpm4ubb said:
I am so sorry for your loss on your baby bearded dragon.
Next time, try your best to get your bearded dragons from breeders instead of pet shops as they are much healthier. Don't feed your bearded dragon mealworms as they can get impaction. Which UVB lamp and basking lamp are you using? How high is the temperature in the hotter spot and how low is the temperature in the coller spot? If your baby bearded dragon won't eat, it is most likely to be relocation stress. It may take over a week for your bearded dragon to settle down. Let them bask for at least an hour(the longer the better[about 1and a half hour to two hours is good]) during the day before you feed it and at night after you feed it
The sleeping position of bearded dragons are sometimes really strange as mine sleeps on the sock of rice. Last but not least, which sand are you using for your substrate? Don't use random sand as substrate as it can cause impaction.
Edit: Switch mealworms to either dubias, pin head crickets, Phenix worms etc. And also remember to dust your beardie's insects.

Ok so first:
My UVB is: well I actually have 2, one I don’t use wich would you recommend?
The one I do use is 100 watt Repti Basking Spot Lamp, and the one I DONT use but not sure I should is: ReptiSun 10.0 UVB Compact Fluorescent Bulb i think...
Which one should I use?
My hot basking temperature: not sure, I’ll check when I get home
My cool other side temperature: 70 degrees Fahrenheit Rn, but that’s just because it was cold last night so it’s just warming up
My sand is repti-calcium BUT I decided to put a cover over all of it with paper towels, even if there’s a little bit of seeping in, it’s practically covering all the sand, for safety
My tank is a 40gal FIY
If you’re wondering why I haven’t talked about night heat is a long story, but here it is:

So when my mom got a kit (wich was a absolute ripoff) it came with one of those red lights for night, but I looked into it and found out beardies can see it, but I couldn’t afford. The heat emitter so I kept using it for like a day or two, and it WENT OUT, so then it was a problem, cause at the time my first beardie was alive and needed heat, so I had to just let him have no light and heat at night,(sometimes leaving the light on in cooler nights) but with this new beardie while I was in the pet store, I saw one for 25$ and new it was worth it BUT the lady there was like “that’s gonna fry your beardie” and in my head I new everyone said it was just fine so I was like “but I got a 40gal” and she said I needed a 40gal breeder, and she said it was Thiccer, wich I fought sounded a little bogus but she was really set on me buying a red or blue light so I just used a excuse saying that I’ll fix my old red light (I won’t) And I’ll have to come back later and avoid her.

Also I am set on ordering some Phoenix worms, but my local pet store has hornworms, so imma buy some of them, and there are crickets in his tank right now, and I’m only gonna feed him very little amounts of mealworms every once and awhile

Also karrie you replied while writing this so I’ll start replying to you the second I post this :D

Use the ReptiSun 10.0 and for basking use the intense basking spot bulb. I'm not entirely sure for the 100W one as I'm not an expert, I'm giving all the information I have. You can make another topic about that ?. I don't recommend hornworms as a staple. For a treat, yes! They absolutely love hornworms. Buy smaller hornworms for your baby beardie. Don't use blue or red lights as they are bad for bearded dragons. If you need heat at night, use a CHE with the correct fixture. I think you can use calcium sand as substrate for baby beardies(might need to make a new topic for that). If not just use paper towel as substrate, it's not that good looking but it's one of the best substrate out there.

Thanks for the advice! I’ll be sure not to buy to many hornworms seeing as their just a treat, and today I’ll get around to buyzing the CHE fixture at my local pet store
Will keep updates!
 

KarrieRee

BD.org Sicko
Beardie name(s)
Hiccup he is 6 and Blaze is 4
No Sand!!! Causes impaction--- babies lick everything!!!! Use newspaper paper towels or go to home Depot and get some textured non adhesive shelf liner-- it's cheap easy to clean and insects can't get underneath but NO LOOSE SUBSTRATE!!!
Karrie
 

Gizelle

Member
Original Poster
KarrieRee":fiym8ll1 said:
No Sand!!! Causes impaction--- babies lick everything!!!! Use newspaper paper towels or go to home Depot and get some textured non adhesive shelf liner-- it's cheap easy to clean and insects can't get underneath but NO LOOSE SUBSTRATE!!!
Karrie

Ok so my mother won’t let me take the sand out cause she DOSENT want me to end up getting it everywhere (I’m not) so I’ll go get more paper towels so he can’t see any sand and there will be NO cracks and NO seeping sand, because your right, he could still lick it and get impacted, and my goal is to ensure his safety, and so I plan to!
 

LimKH

Member
Ok so my mother won’t let me take the sand out cause she DOSENT want me to end up getting it everywhere (I’m not) so I’ll go get more paper towels so he can’t see any sand and there will be NO cracks and NO seeping sand, because your right, he could still lick it and get impacted, and my goal is to ensure his safety, and so I plan to![/quote]

Try to get the sand ASAP during cleaning day. Good luck with your journey. ?
Edit: ignore the one on top of the answer?
 
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Pearl Girl wrote on moorelori1966's profile.
i feel so sad reading your about me 😢
Clapton is acclimating okay I think. He's quick as lightning so I'm not sure how much I should bring him out of his house yet. He's not at all interested in his salad though. I wonder if I should change what I'm giving him. Least he's eating his crickets.

Things to do:
Buy calcium powder
Material to raise surface for basking spot
Scenery decals for back of tank

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