CooperDragon":2pz28z0c said:Welcome to the forum! It sounds like you've made some good corrections early on. Can you upload some photos of your new buddy and his setup? You can upload photos here https://www.beardeddragon.org/useruploads/ and post them to your thread using the XIMG button.
The Desert 50 T8 bulb is OK, especially if you have it mounted inside. You may want to shift it over the basking area rather than in the middle so you have intense UVB and high heat together over the basking area. That bulb works best about 6-8'' above the basking area. Did you remove the clear plastic from in front of the bulb (if you have the corresponding fixture)? That will intercept all UVB and needs to be removed if it's there.
The temps are definitely a bit low. You may need to play around with different bulb wattages but that CHE should get the temps up. It's good that you got the bright basking light. You may want to try using a 150w basking light and just use the CHE at night if needed. Alternatively you could move to a halogen flood light. I use a 90w GE PAR38 halogen flood light which would work well on a dimmer so you can adjust the power easily. Where do you have the probe for the digital thermometer? You'll want it to be right on the basking surface. I zip tie the probes down in my tank so they stay put - one on the basking surface and one on the cool side. It may take some fiddling to get the temps just right but once they're set then it doesn't take much effort to maintain them.
traildrifterphalanx":1n8qwxf4 said:Welcome to the forum! I'm glad you're doing your research and have come to the right place for tips and advice
The temps you are taking, are those still being taken by the stick on? I just ask because the one that came with my "kit" back in the day was off by nearly 20 degrees! If yours is accurate, it's at a great range, and he has the stick ramp to work his own temp as desired.
I know you're upgrading the UVB but I'd scoot it closer to his basking platform. It's best they can soak up both at the same time and the UVB is a little far
It's perfectly normal for them not to eat for the first week to even two. They are territorial and moving them out of their "safe zone" can really throw them off and they take some time to re-adjust, referred to as relocation stress.
If you want to make him feel more at home, I'd recommend a background of some sort to cover at least 2 of the walls to make him feel more enclosed. I see you have something rigged up, but it may be helpful to have it cover the full walls
traildrifterphalanx":t51fnscs said:It's a little alarming that a little guy so young would be sleeping so often. He should be bursting with energy.
Are you able to have him taken into a vet for a check-up? As much as I'd hate to instill unnecessary fear, it may be time to consider he could have a parasite or two messing with him as they tend to make them lethargic and lose their appetite.
It may be best to have someone with more experience in this field respond.
traildrifterphalanx":2u89s09b said:It could definitely take some time to acclimate, but what concerns me is the sleeping all day (though I figure it's not literally the whole day.)
Even when I had gotten my most recent dragon, he went about 2 weeks without eating but was very very alert in his little basking branch, though he did not move around too much. He only slept after lights out, but was head high when lights were on.
I eventually got him eating Repti-Boost to get his appetite back on track and he eating on his own not long after.
http://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/flukers-reptaboost-insectavore-and-carnivore-high-amp-boost
This is something you could try prior to a vet visit if he's alert, or baby food squash/chicken/green beans through a dropper to try and entice him eating. If he is not acting awake/alert, I would have him seen by an experienced herp vet as soon as possible to rule out any underlying issue.
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