Ok so good on getting the T 5 ordered --- for now please unobstruct the T8 --- the screen is blocking the UVB rays and he needs to be able to sit directly under it 6-8 inches -- this will cause him not to eat along w/ relocation stress but we need the surface basking temps and the UVB on par-- surface basking temps should be 105-110 taken w/ a digital probe thermometer -- drop water on his nose to see if he will lick keep dropping if he starts to lick till he stops-- the CHE is good for night time temps if your tank is getting below 65 at night--- when you get your T 5 post back on here I will help you get it set up for your tank -- the screen will determine where the UVB needs to goWe have a new Baby we got him 2/22 around 5pm and he ate 3 crickets from tongs that night.... the next day he ate 1 cricket and hasn't eaten anything since Thursday 2/23. We have been trying to give him water. We have tried salads, fruits, worms, and crickets. We have tried feeding with tongs, laying it near him and putting in bowl and going away. We did see him exploring the cage more today and looking into his water dish.
He has a 40-gal tank. He moves from light to light and doesn't hide or go into a cave. He stays high in the hammock and on the branch.
His basking spot is 100-105 the lower part of the cage and cool cage is 80-85.
He has an Arcadia 100-watt essential basking spot bulb and a Zilla 18" Slimeline Desert 50 UVB T8. I decided this morning to order him a 24" Zoo Med reptisun T5 HO hood and bulb. He also has a 100 watts ceramic heater for night.
He started shedding the day after we brought him home. Just a piece under his chin and a bit around his face.
We have been dropping water on his nose. Sometimes he will take it sometimes he won't.Ok so good on getting the T 5 ordered --- for now please unobstruct the T8 --- the screen is blocking the UVB rays and he needs to be able to sit directly under it 6-8 inches -- this will cause him not to eat along w/ relocation stress but we need the surface basking temps and the UVB on par-- surface basking temps should be 105-110 taken w/ a digital probe thermometer -- drop water on his nose to see if he will lick keep dropping if he starts to lick till he stops-- the CHE is good for night time temps if your tank is getting below 65 at night--- when you get your T 5 post back on here I will help you get it set up for your tank -- the screen will determine where the UVB needs to go
Sounds good --- he will go thru relocation stress but its important to have the UVB and the surface basking temps on par-- this is going to help him settle in and adjust quicker -- if you need help getting the UVB hung please ask I can post some things to help youWe have been dropping water on his nose. Sometimes he will take it sometimes he won't.
We are trying to balance care and leaving him alone to settle in. Hopefully I have the new light in the next couple of days. I will also see what I can do about hanging the other one tonight.
We have not tried feeding him outside of the cage. We have been trying to let him destress but since it's been almost a week since he has eaten, we are really getting worried. He seems to have a routine and doesn't seem sick.It sounds like you are doing everything right, your little guy might just be stressed out, have you tried feeding him outside his cage? I have 3 beardies and 2 of them wont eat in thier cage i always move them to thier feeding cage to eat then back in thier tanks after meals the 3rd prefers to eat in his cage, so maybe try moving him to a big tub and provide food, i always tub feed all 3 of my boys but also they have bugs in thier cages if thwy decide they want snacks, thata my only suggestion other than that ive had a beardie in the past that did the same thing and refused to eat so for weeks i would have to "force feed" him to keep him healthy and eventully he started eating on his own. I know force feeding sounds scary but it can be done safely i looked up how on youtube so maybe look into that and good luck with everything hopefully you can enjoy your baby dragon for years and years to come
Get your UVB and temps in check -- once that is in place he should start eating something even a little is better than none -- I would not however go another week w/ out him eating nothing- if that is the case please post back on here and we can help you ---- please keep offering water tho and food -- rinse the salads before serving that is how they get most of their moisture - what kind of worms? I would order him some BSFL and put them on top of his salads -- good salad lures -- www.symtonbsf.comWe have not tried feeding him outside of the cage. We have been trying to let him destress but since it's been almost a week since he has eaten, we are really getting worried. He seems to have a routine and doesn't seem sick.
How long can he go before you start looking at force feeding him?
Wax worms are real fatty and too many and fed too often can cause liver damage - dubia roaches are a good staple feeder- besides the bsfl- your best bet is to order on line - have the post office hold the insects/ worms - don't feed anymore wax worms only the bsfl on his salads - feed as many as he will eat- please order some dubias www.dubiaroaches.com go by their chart on the website for size- do not feed any insect bigger than the space between the eyes- I would get a 10 gallon tank order 200 w/ some dubia food and dubia crystals and feed things like squash fruit raw sweet potato stuff you feed to the dragon- do not feed carrots to both one or the other too much vitamin a- I am gonna post a bowl in the morning to keep the bsfl in it -I ordered some Bsfl. He ate 3 wax worms tonight. We can't get him to look at crickets. I have to order everything because we don't have any local store's and we have had trouble with things showing up dead because we live in cold weather.
What is the best variety of protein options that are hardy and last while he is building an appetite.
Thank you for the help!
He loved the Dubia roches. He has been eating them regularly for the past week. Having normal poops and seems to be more comfortable. He won't try the BSFL. He also won't touch his salad or crickets. He seems to be very picky. He only ate a couple roaches today but he is shedding a bit.Wax worms are real fatty and too many and fed too often can cause liver damage - dubia roaches are a good staple feeder- besides the bsfl- your best bet is to order on line - have the post office hold the insects/ worms - don't feed anymore wax worms only the bsfl on his salads - feed as many as he will eat- please order some dubias www.dubiaroaches.com go by their chart on the website for size- do not feed any insect bigger than the space between the eyes- I would get a 10 gallon tank order 200 w/ some dubia food and dubia crystals and feed things like squash fruit raw sweet potato stuff you feed to the dragon- do not feed carrots to both one or the other too much vitamin a- I am gonna post a bowl in the morning to keep the bsfl in it -
Ok please show me the screen pic from above please-- use your roaches and the bsfl on top of his salads- drop them in his salad bowl in front of him- I hate it when they are so picky- the crickets I understand- keep trying we may haft to resort to some other insects/ worms- keep.him hydrated your salads are usually the way to do that - drop water on his nose 2-3'times a week you can use a eye dropper drop till he stops licking-He loved the Dubia roches. He has been eating them regularly for the past week. Having normal poops and seems to be more comfortable. He won't try the BSFL. He also won't touch his salad or crickets. He seems to be very picky. He only ate a couple roaches today but he is shedding a bit.
I got the new USB light. It's the zoo med 24 inch 10.0 and I have it about 7 inches above his basking spot on top of the screen.
Here is the screen. He is 8 inches away from the top. I have also include the bulb we are using.Ok please show me the screen pic from above please-- use your roaches and the bsfl on top of his salads- drop them in his salad bowl in front of him- I hate it when they are so picky- the crickets I understand- keep trying we may haft to resort to some other insects/ worms- keep.him hydrated your salads are usually the way to do that - drop water on his nose 2-3'times a week you can use a eye dropper drop till he stops licking-
So the UVB is good please change it out in approx 10-11 months-- the distance is good just make sure your basking decor piece is directly under it --Here is the screen. He is 8 inches away from the top. I have also include the bulb we are using.
Great! Thank you!So the UVB is good please change it out in approx 10-11 months-- the distance is good just make sure your basking decor piece is directly under it --
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