Just got my terrarium together

Cronniss

Member
Well, as the thread title says, I just got my terrarium put together. I don’t have my little buddy yet, I still want to make sure that I can tweak the habitat to make sure it’s comfortable for when he comes home.

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Here is a list of what I got for the enclosure:

Terrarium
ReptiZOO 120 Gallon Tank – 48” x 24” x 24”, front opening doors
ReptiZOO Storage Cabinet – 48” x 24” x 30”
Trevie Trevie Gray Matte Porcelain Stone Tile – 12” x 24”, on receipt is listed as Alpe Graphite, Total 4, cut-to-fit

Lighting & Heating
ReptiZoo T5 HO UVB Terrarium Hood – 54 Watt
ReptiZoo T5 HO 10.0 UVB Bulb – 54 Watt
Reptile Heat Lamp Stand – 15.7” to 74.3”
Fluker’s 8.5” Heavy Duty Clamp Light for Reptiles with dimmable switch
Fluker’s 150 Watt Incandescent Basking Spotlight Bulb
Reptile Temperature Controller – Day/Night Timer, 3 Outlet Thermostat
JEDEW Mini Hygrometer – 2 pack
ReptiZoo Reptile Air Purifier – I currently have only 1 in the terrarium, but the instructions say I need 2 for the size of terrarium that I have. I have a 2nd one on the way.

Terrain and Accessories
Double-Layered Reptile Hammock
Reptile Escape Proof Worm Dish
Thrive Brown Reptile Bowl – Small
Imagitarium Reptile Ramp Bowl – 13” x 9” x 2.5”, This is not for watering but for my little buddy to take a dip in.
Thrive Desert Reptile Corner Hide
Thrive Corner Tree Snake Hide
Mac’s Creatures & Critters Pet Refuge - Large
Thrive Skull Terrarium Decor
Thrive Climbing Reptile Branch Ladder
Thrive Desert Reptile Decorating Kit – Includes:
  • Pillow Moss
  • Reindeer Moss
  • Blonde Sphagnum Moss
  • Mini Basking Bark
  • Sedona Stones
Imagitarium Pink Tipped Cactus Reptile Décor
Imagitarium Succulent Terrarium Décor - Medium

It looks like I will need to change the Fluker’s lamp, tho. It seems that the 150 watt lamp isn’t enough to raise the temperature high enough for the warm area. It appears that I need to get a 250 watt lamp instead.

I’ll also be getting a second air purifier to ensure that the humidity level is fairly constant throughout the enclosure. Currently my the humidity is at 36% on the warm side and 47% on the cool side. Also, I may add a potted plant as well - probably an echeveria (one with some color).

If anyone can offer any tips or suggestions for my terrarium I’d appreciate hearing them.

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Cronniss

Member
Original Poster
I am now almost ready to get my new companion; I just need to get a couple more items and then I can get him. I do have a question about my terrarium, though.

I upgrade my basking lamp to a 250w bulb. In order to get the heat up in the basking spot to 100F I had to remove the top. The total height of the enclosure is 2’. With how I have it set up, would I need to replace the lid with a screen that has larger holes, or can he live without the top? (There are no other animals in my home.)
 

Chris.

Sub-Adult Member
Beardie name(s)
Luis and Lilith
It would be better with a lid, you don't know if he/she will be a jumper and/climber and could get out.
Why did you have to remove the top in the first place? 250W sounds a bit excessive, I heat my 210GAL tanks with a 125W plus a uvb.
 

Cronniss

Member
Original Poster
With the lid on the temperature of the basking spot was not getting hot enough...it wouldn't go over 90F - and that was with the bulb nearly touching the screen of the lid. Without the lid, I can keep a constant temperature of 100F.

I had tried a 125w bulb, but the temp wouldn't get over 80F. The holes in the screen of the lid are really small, and with the screen being made of metal I think the screen was just capturing the heat and dispersing it across the whole top instead of radiating down on the basking spot.

(We do keep our place pretty chilled, at about 72F. Might be why I need a higher wattage bulb.)

I guess I can see about having a lid made for it using something akin to chicken wire.
 

Chris.

Sub-Adult Member
Beardie name(s)
Luis and Lilith
With the lid on the temperature of the basking spot was not getting hot enough...it wouldn't go over 90F - and that was with the bulb nearly touching the screen of the lid. Without the lid, I can keep a constant temperature of 100F.

I had tried a 125w bulb, but the temp wouldn't get over 80F. The holes in the screen of the lid are really small, and with the screen being made of metal I think the screen was just capturing the heat and dispersing it across the whole top instead of radiating down on the basking spot.

(We do keep our place pretty chilled, at about 72F. Might be why I need a higher wattage bulb.)

I guess I can see about having a lid made for it using something akin to chicken wire.
Ah, I see. Can you maybe just cut a hole to where the bulb will be placed? Just a idea...

Yes I'd like my place to be a little cooler too but in summer with two terrariums adding to it, my office room is already around 77°F plus my bulbs are all mounted inside the tank. In fact my room AC is mainly running to keep the cool side of the tanks below 85°F 🙈
 

Rocky2022

Gray-bearded Member
Beardie name(s)
Rocky, Ruby
How exciting ...
good luck in selectingyour beardie. Since i. Others talked about the importantstuff, I'm wondering If the skull would scare it. A new environment and you will already be something they have to adjust to, I'm just curious. I could be projecting.
 

Cronniss

Member
Original Poster
How exciting ...
good luck in selectingyour beardie. Since i. Others talked about the importantstuff, I'm wondering If the skull would scare it. A new environment and you will already be something they have to adjust to, I'm just curious. I could be projecting.
I’ll be sure to say how he reacts to the skull when I get him. 🤗
 

ChileanTaco

Gray-bearded Member
Beardie name(s)
Taco
It would be better with a lid, you don't know if he/she will be a jumper and/climber and could get out.
Why did you have to remove the top in the first place? 250W sounds a bit excessive, I heat my 210GAL tanks with a 125W plus a uvb.
I would also keep the lid on - this also makes higher climbing spots safe.

Regarding wattage: I have two 100 W bulbs (in addition to the UV tube of course).
I "decided" for two as a) more than 100 W isn't available here, b) even if it were, with two 100 W I am more flexible.
(The tank is in our dining room, we have usually at minimum 20 °C (68 F) there (room is neither heated nor cooled), tank is fully glass and stands in a corner of two windows, but is insulated with styrofoam on the back glass and on one of the sides just as there is a climbing background made from styrofoam, expanding foam and tile glue.)

Regarding the skull: I guess it won't scare the dragon. Things bearded dragons are scared are things that look like predators - my dragon was scared of the vultures when he saw them through the window (we have a huge amount of those, like other places have crows or pigeons), of clothes in the wind (drying them on the balcony or in the room), and similar things. That thing is not much like a predator, despite it has teeth.
Thinking that skulls are scary also isn't found in all human cultures - it's in fact a cultural thing, like finding eating insects scary or disgusting.
 
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Cronniss

Member
Original Poster
How exciting ...
good luck in selectingyour beardie. Since i. Others talked about the importantstuff, I'm wondering If the skull would scare it. A new environment and you will already be something they have to adjust to, I'm just curious. I could be projecting.
So far he hasn't shown any interest in the skull whatsoever. He's walked around it. Maybe licked it. But other than that, he hasn't paid it any attention.
 

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Sir Henry the dragon
Looking for his dragon girl
Ventures out in to the wide world
His hopes are up but as you can see
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Could you perchance get me a mail order bride ?
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Hi there a little update we went from a 50 watt heat lamp to a 100 watt basking halogen heat lamp hahaha I saw some comments about it being so close so I made sure to put it a ruler away from her
Has anyone seen this before? Something in the corner of his mouth
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