not to be the pooper of parties, but, there are many things wrong.
first, screen cage is bad, if you cant keep it humid enough in there for him you should at least get a sterlite tub to put him in asap until you can get a tank (im not a fan of keeping animals in tupperware, but they make great temp tanks as they hold humidity very well). keeping him in there too long with it dry like that is not good at all, espeically if hes shedding. but if you choose against that for whatever reason, at least give him saunas regularly while hes shedding and to ensure
hydration.
second, cgd is a must, its not a conspiracy that all the experts are in on to get you to spend your money on their products, its essential. fruits and nectars are a big part of their diet in the wild, you cant replicate that with a few crickets and waxworms (which shouldnt be fed anyway). but if you choose against that for whatever reason at least try to offer some sort of fruit, banannas mangos, something.
third, if youre going to simply toss a bunch of crickets in over night as your approach to feeding, loose substrate of any kind is not really a good idea no matter what kind you use. not just for the risk of impaction, which is extremely higher with younger ones, i dont know how old your is, but also the bugs will find a way to hide and the bigger particle substrate you use the easier it will be for them to do that. not to mention even if you dust the crix before dumping them in, by the time your crested actually finds it the dusting will have been for nothing and will end up rubbed off throughout the cage anyway.
fourth, its sounds like you didnt put him through a proper QT peroid. no matter what you choose to do as substrate, you should always put new additions into a qt tank, paper towels, minimal decor but adequate foliage to make them feel secure, of course. this way you can closely monitor his eating/pooping behaviors to not only make sure that he is in fact eating and pooping but to make sure that his poop is what its supposed to be. despite who he came from or how reputable they are, its always good practice to play it safe. if you wouldve done that you wouldnt be guessing if he actually ate or not, youd know. and the waste wouldnt get mixed up in the substrate, it would be easy to find.
lastly, just leave him alone. quit stirring up the cage. it can take 1-3 weeks sometimes for these guys to settle in and the more you mess with them the less they will eat and the longer it will take.
i dont know what your temps are but im sure, hopefully, you already know not to push these guys too far past 80 degrees.
and im in no way against loose substrate or feeding live. i have some guys on just paper towels, some on eco earth or cocoa noir and some in planted tanks. cgd is the main diet i use, i offer crix, dubia or pheonix worms a couple times a week. some love bugs, some hate it, some wont touch a pheonix worm but will devour a cricket. theyre all different and you have to find what works best for them. i have over 40 rhacs and every single one is as healthy as can be, and i learned each one by proper quarantining periods and getting to know their behaviors prior to putting them in a different tank to ensure i was providing the most appropriate habitat for them that i could.
one thing about eco earth. i personally have never had a problem with mold. i actually find that it dries faster than moss does, which is partially why i use it. and i found if you put it in dry and just mist heavy every night it will keep the humidity good throughout the night and slowly dry out during the day, which is what you want. when i tried to put it in damp it stayed wet forever and i ended up having to leave lids off tanks to air them out because they retained too much moisture. but i would not suggest bark of any kind. i would even suggest organic soil or peat moss instead.
anyway, thats my two cents, whatever its worth. good luck
