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Bearded Dragon Discussions
Health
How Much Should My Beardie Be Eating (and What Do I Do?)
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[QUOTE="J4ckdaw-, post: 2032137, member: 117954"] 👋 Hi there, welcome to the community! First I’d like to clarify that [I]YOU [/I]and your partner are the primary caretakers, a 5 year old child won’t be able to comprehend the level of responsibility and knowledgeability that a reptile needs to thrive in captivity. [B]Onto feeding:[/B] You’ll find mixed opinions across this forum on this topic, and, it really just depends on your bearded dragon’s appetite. So you’d say he/she is eating about 10-15 crickets a day? That’s fine, in the wild they can go a long time with very limited food. The bare minimum I’d say is 18 crickets (6 crickets 3x a day) but if he/she is hungry enough you can feed him/her up 20 crickets per feeding 2x a day. Just keep in mind, if you decide to feed him/her in higher amounts multiple times a day he/she WILL grow substantially faster and you’ll have to upgrade to a larger enclosure much faster (minimum for adults is 120 gallons). Don’t listen to the people who say he/she can eat as much as she wants per feeding, that will almost undoubtably lead to obesity which can be INCREDIBLY dangerous for a bearded dragon or any reptiles in general. In captivity we grow our bearded dragons WAY quicker than they would naturally in the wild, that’s fine and all but just a fair warning they can get up to two feet long in captivity in under a year. They are big. Waxworms should never be fed as a staple insect, they are treat bugs to be fed in small amounts. They are lizard twinkies, too many of these and it’s almost certain your baby will be overweight which you should try to avoid. Mealworms are a fine staple insects but I’d say for dragons over 5-6 months of age, don’t listen to any false claims about them lacking nutritional content or anything. Just know they should be fed in smaller amounts. Other great staples are silkworms (pricy), superworms (5-6 months+ only, cheap), roaches (cheap), crickets (cheap), phoenix worms (cheap, jsyk most of their praised calcium content is the indigestible skins.) [B]Onto husbandry:[/B] You need to replace the coil bulb stat, those things are inconsistent and can easily ruin a bearded dragon’s quality of life. This is non-negotiable for bearded dragons and most other reptiles. The best brands for the ideal UVB fixture are Reptisun and Arcadia, get a long bulb that covers 3/4 of his/her tank. It’s best to be strapped to the inside of the enclosure. Karrie can help you with placement. The things to look for are the labels D3+, ho, t5 if you want it above the mesh and t8 if you want it inside, wattage varies depending on size, and the % should never exceed 14% and never be lower than 12%. What are you measuring her basking temps with? Stick-ons and temp guns are inaccurate, best bet would be a digital probe thermometer, most brands work the same. Get two and put it on either side. Your basking spot is too hot, maximum should be 110 degrees. Ideally it should sit at exactly 107.6 degrees but 105-110 degrees work just as well (keep in mind this is all being measured in Fahrenheit). good luck 👍 [/QUOTE]
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Bearded Dragon Discussions
Health
How Much Should My Beardie Be Eating (and What Do I Do?)
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