How do you guys keep your dragon’s tank warm in the winter?

Beardie name(s)
Falkor
So, I’ve been managing to keep Falkor’s tank cool during the summer months, however, during the winter (especially last year during a little blizzard we had), his tank only ever gets up to 80 degrees. I have 2 ceramic heater bulbs, 1 basking bulb, and a UVB light, and nowhere else to put a new bulb. I want to mitigate the problem as fast as possible, so I am looking to do so long before winter hits. Please keep in mind that my home has no AC, and we rely on opening and closing windows to keep Our own temperatures bearable, as well as using fans. The room the tank is situated in is the coldest room in the structure, and as such, becomes very hard to keep warm. I do have curtains instead of a door, so insulation from the rest of the building is very difficult, due to the fact that the entire downstairs is open, save for the bathroom and closet, both of which are outside the dragon’s (and my) room. He’s a winter-brumating beardie, does that mean I can keep his tank cooler during the winter? I know some beardies brumate during the summer, due to being australian animals. image.jpg
 

FalkorBeardie :3

Member
Original Poster
Beardie name(s)
Falkor
Is 80 his basking surface temp or just the general ambient temp in the enclosure?

-Brandon
80 is his cool side temp, I keep his basking spot at 104-106, however, as stated in my original post, during the winter it gets down to 80 in his basking spot, which, obviously, is not good. Last year, he brumated from around Halloween to mid-january, so I didn’t worry too much, considering the temps got back up to normal by the time he was active again, however this year may be different (because NH winters are always inconsistent), so I just want to be prepared.
 

Claudiusx

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
as stated in my original post, during the winter it gets down to 80 in his basking spot
Your OP didn't mention the basking surface specifically, you said his tank, which is why I asked. 80 for a general temperature in a tank during the winter is fine, but it's not for a basking surface.

There are a few things at play, either you need to up the wattage of your bulb for the basking site, you need to change bulb types, or you need to change the fixture you are using. Some fixtures are better at reflecting heat than others, and likewise, some bulbs are better at producing heat than others. Many owners have summer and winter heat bulbs. Lower wattage in the summer months and higher wattages in the winter months.

If the tank has an open top or screen top, you can try draping a cloth over the top to block some of the heat from escaping. Heat rises, so preventing it from escaping the tank will help heat the tank up a bit.

-Brandon
 

KarrieRee

BD.org Sicko
Beardie name(s)
Hiccup he is 6 and Blaze is 4
I use a Ceramic Heat Emitter in the winter - temps are around 70 ambient at night - its only used on nights when the temps are below zero tho otherwise the tank goes to what the house temp is --
 

Chris.

Sub-Adult Member
Beardie name(s)
Luis and Lilith
So in theory you can let your dragon brumate as low as 60F (ambient) for three or four months. There is nothing wrong with letting them brumate in cold temps and in fact it may benefit their health in the long run.

If you want to keep the tank warm anyway, you can also add some foam or cork plates to the sides and back of the tank to insulate it better. Especially if you have a glass tank, as glass is really bad at insulating.
The heat will leak mostly through the top as Brandon mentioned so covering some of it will make a big difference.
Also make sure there is enough "stuff" in there. Like wood, stones or sand (or other substrates), as they safe heat way better than if there would be more air in the tank.
 

ChileanTaco

Sub-Adult Member
Beardie name(s)
Taco
My Taco is in a glass tank with a wide-mesh lid on top. The room temperature in winter stays at about 19 - 20 °C with rarely approaching 18 °C during nights (as typical for houses in our location, there is no heating; summers get hot, but we also have no cooling, so use a fan and open the windows during summer if we think it's a bit too hot (for us)). That works well for both us and the dragon; we can get the tank to appropriate temperatures all year long. Otherwise - house with heating in a region that makes it necessary - I might have put the enclosure in a room we heat during day (in cold regions, we heated rooms such as living room or office to about 19 - 20 °C) and would use a ceramic heat emitter during the night for the dragon's enclosure.
Running AC (cooling) is something we would avoid even if existing; we just don't like the noise such a thing makes and how it feels (I really hate it when somewhere, e.g. at a workplace, AC cannot be switched off! I'm okay with cooler room temperatures but just not with cooling). In that case of overly hot, we likely would reduce heat sources in the enclosure, e.g. trying it with switching out the basking lamps with appropriate LED or using a LED and weaker basking lamps. But really too hot for a dragon should not happen too frequent?

Taco did brumate more than 3 months during this (his first) winter; he generally reacts very much to tiny variations in temperature and light, and generally what he sees (weather) through the windows. A cloudy day, or a day a bit cooler than the one before, he won't come out much of his burrow despite technically the temperatures are fine. During brumation, on especially sunny days he came out from his burrow for a bit. (Similar to their behavior in the wild, as I've read.) He ended brumation exactly on winter solstice - I guess that tells something.

Regarding insulation: Foam or cork plates would indeed be an idea. Another idea that extends this: building a climbing background that doubles as insulation. The back and one side of Taco's tank has a climbing background made from MDF, styrofoam, construction foam, tile glue and sand. This is then glued to the glass with safe silicone for fish tanks to prevent it from tipping over. I don't know how much insulation it adds as I made it immediately after buying the tank and the main purpose was not insulation but enable extra space for climbing. But I would suggest a solution similar to this especially in case the tank doesn't have something for climbing on at least one side. There are plenty of tutorials online if you look for some of the above materials and "reptile" or "tank". Taco uses this area a lot and I'm happy that he has more to climb than just a branch and a stone.
For a quick look: You can see it here in the photo attached to the first posting

Also make sure there is enough "stuff" in there. Like wood, stones or sand (or other substrates), as they safe heat way better than if there would be more air in the tank.
Agree very much on that. I personally think (my opinion) that most tanks I see look to me very "empty". Of course the dragon should have enough space to move around, but I would for sure add more. Also: Added "furniture" can provide extra space the dragon can use, instead of a mostly inaccessible volume. I see it similar to a room: Extra height in a room used by humans just makes it harder to heat and we can't use the extra volume - but we can use some of the extra volume in our room if we add another level, e.g. we would add a bunk bed, a bouldering wall or another raised area. Same goes for a reptile enclosure.
 
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Jes

Member
Beardie name(s)
Obidiah
I live in VT, my beardie is presently in brumation, I would prefer he brumate in my winter but...anyway I use 150 watt heating/basking bulbs in the winter and I do have 2" thick insulation board against back of tank ( which is on desk near a window). My tank is 48 x 24 x 24, I am thinking of getting a 48 x 24 x 18 which I think will be easier to heat. Hope this helps
 

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