We've recently taken on an aproximately 18 month-old beardie that needed re-homing. We're not new to reptiles, having three snakes, and certainly not new to the sound of crickets, as we have 25 tarantulas (some of whom were also rescues/re-homes)! But this is our first beardie and it would be good to know that we're doing things right.
She (I'm almost certain she's a she having looked under the tail) has been well-cared for, but some of the treatment seems to have been slightly misguided from what I've read. For one thing, she was on calcium sand, which I know is a no-no. I'll be changing that out for play sand which I understand is less likely to cause impactions. I've also moved the heating arrangements as she had no gradient - the heating pad was at the opposite end from the basking lamp, so the whole enclosure was hot. I'm slightly concerned that she now chooses the cooler end much of the time - are they bright enough to know that they need the heat to help their digestion? She seems a lot calmer now that she can control her temperature.
She doesn't show any interest in food that's not moving. I've manage to get her to eat some dandelion leaves and some apple, but only by sleight of hand! Should I be providing her with more live food to make up for her not eating the greens, or is that just encouraging her to eat a less balanced diet? Roughly what quantity of food should an adult dragon be consuming per day?
Sorry for all the questions, I'm sure most get asked all the time, but I've found lots of conflicting information on the Web.
Here's a picture of her (the lipstick was a result of trying to get her to eat strawberry).
do you know what the temperatures are? what size enclosure? not all beardies do eat their greens. i got mine started on greens by adding worms (silkies and occassionally waxworms). they see the movement and eventually ate the greens. as far as how much they should eat, they are all different. they do typically slow down as they get older. she may also eat less if she has some stress from all the changes. hope this helps a little. good luck!
We've recently taken on an aproximately 18 month-old beardie that needed re-homing. We're not new to reptiles, having three snakes, and certainly not new to the sound of crickets, as we have 25 tarantulas (some of whom were also rescues/re-homes)! But this is our first beardie and it would be good to know that we're doing things right.
She (I'm almost certain she's a she having looked under the tail) has been well-cared for, but some of the treatment seems to have been slightly misguided from what I've read. For one thing, she was on calcium sand, which I know is a no-no. I'll be changing that out for play sand which I understand is less likely to cause impactions. I've also moved the heating arrangements as she had no gradient - the heating pad was at the opposite end from the basking lamp, so the whole enclosure was hot. I'm slightly concerned that she now chooses the cooler end much of the time - are they bright enough to know that they need the heat to help their digestion? She seems a lot calmer now that she can control her temperature.
She doesn't show any interest in food that's not moving. I've manage to get her to eat some dandelion leaves and some apple, but only by sleight of hand! Should I be providing her with more live food to make up for her not eating the greens, or is that just encouraging her to eat a less balanced diet? Roughly what quantity of food should an adult dragon be consuming per day?
Sorry for all the questions, I'm sure most get asked all the time, but I've found lots of conflicting information on the Web.
Here's a picture of her (the lipstick was a result of trying to get her to eat strawberry).
I had a hard time getting Ozzy to eat his greens when I first got him. All the care sheets recommend that about 80% of their nutrition should come from greens and veggies. I was told Ozzy, as an adult, could go up to 2 weeks without crickets or feeders and that if I withheld his feeders for a few days he'd probably eat his salad.
It only took 2 extra days of no crickets to get him to eat. Though I did try a number of different things. We found his absolute favorite is butternut squash. I just put a slice in the food processor with some greens and it takes 2 seconds to make his salad.
I haven't measured the enclosure, but I'd estimate it to be about 30" wide x 14" tall x 16" deep.
I'll try witholding live food for a couple of days. It's not going to be easy - you should see the way she gazes out at you through the glass when she's hungry - I'm going to feel so guilty!
Beautiful dragon
If she keeps going to teh cooler side, maybe the temps on the hot side are too hot.
Did you get rid of the heating pad or did you place it under the hot side? Dragons shouldnt have any heat sources coming from below them (heat pads, heat rocks, etc.) Just their basking light.
The temperatures on the basking spot itself need to be measured with a digital probe thermometer. Stick-on thermometers will not give basking temps, and are innaccurate anyway.
What brand UV strip light are you using, if any (they need this... and NOT an ESU brand.) And they need to be replaced every 6 months, and the dragon needs to be able to get within 6" of the light.
How big is the dragon? The tank sounds too small for an adult.
I haven't taken the pad out - just moved it all the way to the basking end. I worry slightly about nighttime temperatures. For most of our vivs I have the heat pad taped to the back - but everyone else is in glass tanks and I'm not sure how well the wood of the dragon enclosure will conduct the heat.
I'll take some exact measurements of enclosure and dragon this evening.