O.K, so you can try the smashed cricket trick, it works pretty well at times. And the foot in question has a shed on it, is that what the concern is , the greyish color ? If the dragon is using it O.K then it may just LOOK injured but not actually be.
No, no, the picture I posted was of a good foot, one of the back ones. I don't have a picture of the bad foot. However, the second post on this thread has pictures of my friends' dragon. The last two pictures, i believe, are pictures of its bad foot. From what, I can tell on the pictures, it may just be missing a couple claws or a couple of joints. So the store labeled it a lame foot, because tonme at least the foot didn't seem that bad.
Let me see if i can use
to steal thebpictures from her post.
I do agree though, that I'm not too concerned about the foot in question, since I'm tokd the dragon is walking on it.
It occurred to me while, I was grabbong the pic, that you had known what I meant and/or already looked at these two pics. If so... ^^; I'm sorry for misunderstanding
Ok, I am currently hating my phones' ability to do stuff. It has never been this stupid on this site before. I appologize for all the double posts and confusing messages.
Also, yes i actually talked with her about shedding last night. I believe it was, I don't however, believe that was that they were referring too. I'll ask if sge can take more pictures of it when she gets home
Alright, well I think for now the most important things are going to be #1 a proper UVB tube, and just as important a $10 digital probe thermometer. If she only has a stick-on it should at least be moved to the hot side, though probably off by a lot, she has no idea how hot the Hot Side is, and absolutely no idea what his basking spot is at all, which is dangerous....I still didn't spot the size of the enclosure and the wattage of the basking bulb, just that it's red, so it's easy and cheap enough to go buy a cheap, bright white halogen indoor flood bulb, wattage based on the size of the enclosure, and pitch that red bulb, it's going to just cause a host of additional issues with his eyes and his photoperiod that he doesn't need now. But gotta get a proper digital probe thermometer and get his basking spot temperature within 105-110 max so the little guy can bask after he eats and digest his food...
The 10.0 UVB tube and fixture is going to be crucial to his appetite, as he's just a little guy and you don't want him to start out stunted or developing MBD already...
Sorry, I just got on lunch. I don't just have the red one, I have a daylight one, too. I think my third post said what type they are. I have a probe thermometer that I've used to cook with before, would that be adequate enough to take temps in the terrarium (with cleaning of course)?
That is his current setup, the wood allows him to get almost to the very top and the basking lamp is right there above it.
This is one of the spots he likes to be in. Here or on the top. Today I have seen him hanging around on the ground a bit more.
He was more adventurous today and climbed up on the cave this morning.
I'm not sure how lame is foot is. I don't see any swelling, but I don't think he can move the foot all that well, but he can still climb.
Edit: it's also a 20 gallon long. I can't get anything bigger because of apartment rules.
Edit 2: the box says it has UVA on it for the basking light
Alright, well I think for now the most important things are going to be #1 a proper UVB tube, and just as important a $10 digital probe thermometer. If she only has a stick-on it should at least be moved to the hot side, though probably off by a lot, she has no idea how hot the Hot Side is, and absolutely no idea what his basking spot is at all, which is dangerous....I still didn't spot the size of the enclosure and the wattage of the basking bulb, just that it's red, so it's easy and cheap enough to go buy a cheap, bright white halogen indoor flood bulb, wattage based on the size of the enclosure, and pitch that red bulb, it's going to just cause a host of additional issues with his eyes and his photoperiod that he doesn't need now. But gotta get a proper digital probe thermometer and get his basking spot temperature within 105-110 max so the little guy can bask after he eats and digest his food...
The 10.0 UVB tube and fixture is going to be crucial to his appetite, as he's just a little guy and you don't want him to start out stunted or developing MBD already...
One thing you seem to have missed (i maybe wrong amd if so correct me, please.) That, why I had asked about the red light. Part of his problem had actually, been that he hadn't been eatting anything. Yes we are worried. I thought she already had a UVB light, as she mentioned it yesterday -_- *pokes friend* I know she will be getting a proper UVB light real quick here.
However, part of our concern. Is what if his appetite doesn't pick up? Or any trick to try to entice him to eat. I was never worried about heat, because. I know baskimg bulbs can get hit and how high her baby could go if he wanted it. Especially if her cool side is that warm.
Though, I do agree on getting more thermometers as well.
Oh! Back to the eatting though, Mimzy! Have you tried AHBDs' trick yet?
If the bug gut thing doesn't work you can do baby food turkey or chicken mixed with some squash or sweet potato baby food and add your calcium or vitamin powder. But if the heat isn't proper he isn't going to digest well and will lead to tummy aches and an even more aversion to eat. You can also try repashy grub pie if you can find it local. https://www.joshsfrogs.com/repashy-grub-pie-reptile-3-oz-jar-free-shipping.html
Just got back home. Looks like the little guy ate 2 mealworms (there was 8, now only 6) but he still has not yet pooped. I just used my kitchen digital thermometer and his perching area is way too cold for him, so I will try to find a new bulb in the morning with uvb instead of uva hopefully.
Mealworms are not good for beardies. They have a hard shell that can build up in the intestines and cause blockage. I would go for crickets, dubias, pheonix worms or silkworms.
He has crickets too, but hasn't eaten any. But I was just now able to force feed him a cricket. Once his mouth was opened I put one in dusted with calcium powder and he ate it once it was in his mouth. I keep hearing mixed things on mealworms though.
Mealworms are not good for beardies. They have a hard shell that can build up in the intestines and cause blockage. I would go for crickets, dubias, pheonix worms or silkworms.