Should be fine. If you are seeing nymphs then you know it's working.
Twobeardieguy":2ezfj7ce said:Okay! I just want to start off and say there is a ton of people giving off wrong info about dubia roaches. I am sorry for yelling here but I need people to know the truth.
1. LIGHT IS NO GOOD FOR DUBIA ROACHES! They are a nocturnal species so they have to know night from day. A simple rule we live by is they feed and breed at night. We have been testing this theory for quite a few years and if they have light 24/7 then they hide! So that means no breeding!
2. Oranges ARE GOOD FOR DUBIA! No the citrus will not be passed off to your reptile or amphibian! 90% of what a dubia consumes is excreted thru shed and frass. Yes we have documented this thru testing dubia body's, frass and sheds! Orange cubes will work if you are in a tight spot but if you want your colony to boom then don't make this a staple. It contains dried kelp and kelp contains salt. Salt is not good in a dubias body! Also contains ascorbic acid and is used to treat or prevent low levels of vitamin C. Well then again we use all organic and what most company's use is synthesized artificially. I don't like chemicals in any of my bugs diets. Another chemical not needed is the yellow #6 it is a "Food coloring, or color additive, is any dye, pigment or substance that imparts color when it is added to food or drink". Yes most foods contain this but why use it if its not necessary.
3.Heating pads and reptile mats will not catch fire on carpet or floors! I have both in my home and never had any problems.
4. You do not need to clean the bin every day or week. Remember the babies eat and get nutrients from the frass. If you have a very large bin with thousands of roaches and it is really bad then yes ether spot clean or do a whole bin cleaning once a month. However you do want to clean the sheds and any left over fresh food out of the bin. Always leave the food and water separate from each other and the egg creates. Mold and mildew will wipe out a colony quickly!
5. 50% humidity is what you want in your bins. To low and they cannot shed properly and to high will make mold and other issues.
6. Heat is a good range form 77-97. To cold and they go into stasis to hot they die!
7. You want the screen over the top side of the food.
8. You want the heat source under your egg creates stacked vertically or over top with an CHE.
9. DO NOT DISTURB the colony. The least stress they have the best outcome you will have.
10. Do not feed calcium to them!
11. Do feed a very high diet consisting of protein!
12. A mixed ratio is what you want. 3-4 females to 1 male is best.
13. I also want to add two main factors of a dropped egg sac and they are 1. she has to much stress and 2. the humidity level is way to low.
If you have any other questions please feel free to contact me thru email or pm! We have been dealing with them for quite a few years and know what works and don't! We work with very well known vets worldwide and also 4 major universities thru out the world. We do testing every 6 months to our roaches to make sure they are getting everything they need. Remember at the end of the day they are still roaches and will consume anything you throw at them. But it is our job and promise to make sure we sell the healthiest roach to you and your reptile or amphibian! If you think my post has offended you then please feel free to click the little red X on the top right side of your computer screen!