vMrChenMan":6smm8oyz said:The Temp Gun is very convenient and you should definitely buy it first
The background isn't necessary but makes them feel a bit more secure. Also if you do the background I suggest doing the sides also just for some more comfort.
ALWAYS REMOVE CRICKETS FROM THE TANK. If there are crickets in the tank while your dragon is sleeping they will eventually eat your dragon and its never good to have wounds on your dragon.
TadCooper97":ugfcm27c said:Hi all,
I just recently got my first dragon from a couple who had put him for sale. He is supposedly about and year and a half. He's pretty nice so far, and I think we will get along great once he gets used to his relocation.
Heres the problem- I did a lot of research into care for dragons before buying, and according to my research these guys did everything wrong. The substrate is sand <<< BAD
, there is a heat rock (which I have read are bad due to overheating and burning dragons, though he does seem to like it) <<< VERY BAD
, they didn't bathe him, <<<< bathing beardies is not necessary unless
> the beardie has soiled himself
> the beardie is too hot
> the beardie has an impaction (not been to the toilet for several days) the luke warm (35oC water) and some tummy rubbing can help get the poo and hard urates out
> the beardie has an open injury that needs an antiseptic wash
the cage looks like it hasn't been cleaned in a long time,<<< VERY BAD
there is no UVB light,<<< EXTREMELY BAD , I'd have a vet check him for MBD and Vi VitD deficiency (blood work)
no thermometers,<<< NOT GOOD
and no reptile hide. <<< NOT GOOD
I picked him up this evening and I have already bought cleaner (fluker's Super Scrub, Thoughts? <<< never heard of it , I highly recommend you invest in a 200ml bottle of F10SC and a F10 SPRAY BOTTLE (you add about 5ml of SC and make up to 1L with tap water and the diluted F10 is simply sprayed onto all the surfaces after washing those you can with a damp piece of kitchen grade paper towel, then left to stand and airdry for 30mins, the residue is wiped away with a dry piece of paper towel and this will effectively kill off virtually all bacteria, viruses and fungal spores on contact after 30 minutes)
and a hide. <<<< I recommend a JUMBO HUBBA HUT.
For the others aspects:
Substrate- Tile seems to be the most praised substrate, so I think I am decided on that.<<< TICK
UVB- According to another post on this site, the best UVB light is the reptisun 10.0, so I plan to add that <<<< TICK , how tall is the tank, if it's about 24inches tall, I recommend a T5 tube rated at least 10% UVB (higher is better , Arcadia make 12%UVB and 14%UVB T5 tubes which are excellent.
The UVB tube will need to have a reflector behind it (this concentrates the UVA and UVB where the beardie needs it).
If the lid is mesh screen , install the UVB tube UNDER THE LID.
Thermometer: I've seen people recommend the thermometer gun, and the probe temp thermometer,<<<< the probe style digital thermometers are excellent and very accurate , I've tested mine under laboratory conditions and found they were accurate within 1oC of the temperature
These are good http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4x-LCD-Digital-Temperature-Thermometer-Fridge-Freezer-Aquarium-Fish-Tank-Reptile-/391259141696?hash=item5b18dcb640:g
Noncontact kitchen thermometer that throw a laser spot at the target are very good for getting the surface temperatures , one like this is good http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Digital-Temperature-Gun-Meter-Laser-Infrared-IR-Thermometer-Kitchen-Outdoor-NEW-/162322033570?hash=item25cb25aba2:g
I will likely end up getting both, but which is better to get first to use for a while?
There is also no background or cover for the glass "vivarium". Are those needed?
Finally, he seems very thin. I haven't seen him eat very much and there are still some crickets poppin around his crib from probably the last time he was fed. Is it bad to leave the rickets in there with him? How can I fatten him up? <<< an extra feed of live high quality insects each day
> crickets (gut loaded with Repcal adult beardie pellets + high calcium greens (buk/puk choi/ Kale etc) + fresh carrot for moisture and food, or roaches, or locasts (see crickets)
> medium (2 inch long) silkworms are great feeders, as are large silkworms , and suitable to use as a daily insect staple.
> superworms as treats.
Thanks in advance.
TadCooper97":21nz347w said:Best way to carry beardie in the car for a trip to the vet?
Are you actually using a 650 watt bulb in a 150 watt maximum dome fixture? Or am I misunderstanding?Heat lamp cover is reptile dome lamp fixture model-red 1415-7 120v 60hz 150w MAX. The light is different it looks like, National geographic, 250v 650w 42RD E329645.
TadCooper97":1q49h7nx said:That's the information on the fixture and bulb, so it looks like yes. Another replacement incoming. My vive is 18.5 tall, 35 and a fourth wide on the front and back, and 17 and a half wide on the sides. What wattage heat lamp should i buy for that size tank? 100w?
Also should I buy a new basking rock, or just unplug the electric one and place it under the lamp? right now I have the electric one covered and unplugged, I'm going out now to get a new heat lamp, hopefully some tiles, and to talk to my local vet. <<<< I'd unplug it from the power socket and then cut the cord to the rock with a pair of scissors so you or others who live in your home can't ever plug it in ever again.
For night time IF it gets chilly overnight in the room ( less than 21oC) I recommend a CHE controlled by a switching thermostat whose probe is positioned where he usually beds down. Can run this 24/7, it simply wont be active on account of the action the thermostat when it's warm in the room and during the day when the basking light is on.
His name is Iccaract.
<<<< wow .... that's one very black beard going on there ....!!!
I'm aware of all the things wrong with his home and am working to fix them, please remember this is how is got him!
Thanks all for the help.
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