Failure to thrive

KSparx

Member
Beardie name(s)
Sparky
Hello, new to the Beardie world. We got our beardie (Sparky) 12/26 at PetSmart.

Husbandry: He is in a 40 gallon tank (plan to move him to 4x2x2 in 6 months). Temps are: 95 warm, 80 cool, 110 basking. We just got correct UVB Saturday (12/28) and have it mounted inside, Reptisun 24” T5 UVB 10. Substrate is paper towels. I’ll include a picture. He has his heat lamp and a heat bulb (we were struggling getting it warm enough) and his UVB is mounted inside but behind those.

We offer him dusted crickets daily (both with tongs and placing them in front of him to chase) and he refuses. We also offer collard greens daily and have also tried adding carrots, baby bok choy, bell pepper all with no interest.

Since he has been with us he has only eaten 2 crickets and has water daily (we drop some with a syringe on him and he drinks it up, he also drank a ton in his first bath). He stays mostly in one spot unless I get him moving (he doesn’t resist being held but sometimes dislikes my insistence on attempting to feed him). Because of his not eating, some concerning poops, and his overall lethargy we took him to the vet yesterday (1/2). He weighed in at a small 9g. The vet gave him some medicine for parasites and said if he doesn’t seem to get better in 2-3 days that he’s failure to thrive. Any tips on how to get him to eat?
 

KarrieRee

BD.org Sicko
Beardie name(s)
Hiccup he is 6 and Blaze is 5
Hello, new to the Beardie world. We got our beardie (Sparky) 12/26 at PetSmart.

Husbandry: He is in a 40 gallon tank (plan to move him to 4x2x2 in 6 months). Temps are: 95 warm, 80 cool, 110 basking. We just got correct UVB Saturday (12/28) and have it mounted inside, Reptisun 24” T5 UVB 10. Substrate is paper towels. I’ll include a picture. He has his heat lamp and a heat bulb (we were struggling getting it warm enough) and his UVB is mounted inside but behind those.

We offer him dusted crickets daily (both with tongs and placing them in front of him to chase) and he refuses. We also offer collard greens daily and have also tried adding carrots, baby bok choy, bell pepper all with no interest.

Since he has been with us he has only eaten 2 crickets and has water daily (we drop some with a syringe on him and he drinks it up, he also drank a ton in his first bath). He stays mostly in one spot unless I get him moving (he doesn’t resist being held but sometimes dislikes my insistence on attempting to feed him). Because of his not eating, some concerning poops, and his overall lethargy we took him to the vet yesterday (1/2). He weighed in at a small 9g. The vet gave him some medicine for parasites and said if he doesn’t seem to get better in 2-3 days that he’s failure to thrive. Any tips on how to get him to eat?
The uvb needs to be directly above the basking decor 12-15 inches - for a dragon less than 6 months surface basking temps of 105-110 taken w a digital probe thermometer- the medication has effected his appetite so I would get him on a probiotic if he's still on them- it's good your keeping him hydrated - what kind of med is he on? He's got a lot going on w/ the meds and new to the tank so he's also going thru relocation stress- how was the parasites tested? Fecal brought in or enema done?
 

KSparx

Member
Original Poster
Beardie name(s)
Sparky
The uvb needs to be directly above the basking decor 12-15 inches - for a dragon less than 6 months surface basking temps of 105-110 taken w a digital probe thermometer- the medication has effected his appetite so I would get him on a probiotic if he's still on them- it's good your keeping him hydrated - what kind of med is he on? He's got a lot going on w/ the meds and new to the tank so he's also going thru relocation stress- how was the parasites tested? Fecal brought in or enema done?
I don’t think my husbandry pic uploaded but here it is, he spend most of his time on the gray rock towards the back, it is directly under his UVB and temps at 110 also with a temp gun. I have to double check the meds. One he is on for 3 days, the other he will take again in 2 weeks.

I don’t know if/how he was parasites tested (hubby took him in) or if it was assumed parasites (coming from petsmart) in hopes that he isn’t just failure to thrive.

What probiotic would you recommend?
 

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KarrieRee

BD.org Sicko
Beardie name(s)
Hiccup he is 6 and Blaze is 5
I don’t think my husbandry pic uploaded but here it is, he spend most of his time on the gray rock towards the back, it is directly under his UVB and temps at 110 also with a temp gun. I have to double check the meds. One he is on for 3 days, the other he will take again in 2 weeks.

I don’t know if/how he was parasites tested (hubby took him in) or if it was assumed parasites (coming from petsmart) in hopes that he isn’t just failure to thrive.

What probiotic would you recommend?
I am gonna post Tracies website - she's our vet tech on the board - there is a liquid one I used for blaze when he was on meds- good temps and it sounds like his husbandry is good-- so it's the meds and relocation stress for appetite loss- which is normal- I will get it posted here soon
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KSparx

Member
Original Poster
Beardie name(s)
Sparky
Update: We got him to eat tonight! He ate a cricket and 4 Dubias—so more than double what he’s eaten the whole week we’ve had him!
 

KarrieRee

BD.org Sicko
Beardie name(s)
Hiccup he is 6 and Blaze is 5
Update: We got him to eat tonight! He ate a cricket and 4 Dubias—so more than double what he’s eaten the whole week we’ve had him!
Ok good just make sure his uvb and surface basking temps are on par
 

xp29

BD.org Addict
Photo Comp Winner
Beardie name(s)
Ruby, Sinatra, Zsa Zsa
That's great!! My new girl Lucy wouldn't eat for the first week or so either. Relocation strees can effect some considerably more than others. Without proof of reason I absolutely would NOT give meds to a hatching. Unless they did a fecal test they are guessing. Antibiotics are hard on an adult dragon, I can't imagine how bad for a baby. They also will wreck their appetite.
My suggestion is absolutely grill the vet on why they think/know he/she needs meds. If it's as a precaution stop the meds. It is absolutely normal for hatchlings to not eat much for a few days after coming home.
If it's been more than a week or so, order some Oxbow critical care from Amazon. For a baby I'd do carnivore mix. Or omnivore in a pinch. Mix it thin (it will gel/clump without enough water) and use an eyedropper not a syringe to administrator it. The eyedropper makes it much easier to control the amount you are giving. Your beardie is very small and you could choke him with a syringe.
The Oxbow will get enough nutrients in him/her to sustain him/her until your beardie will eat on it's own.
Also try to minimize stressing it more. The faster it settles in the better.
This is all assuming the vet didn't have a valid reasons to prescribe antibiotics of course.
For a hatchling I'd do the critical care twice to 3 times per day. Maybe a half an eyedropper at a time. Play it by ear, if it is still eating readily offer more. GO SLOW make sure to stop and make it catch it's breath after every few drops. Aspiration could be fatal if it inhales the mixture. Just watch and use caution 🙂
 

Drache613

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Hello,

I agree. A lot of times vets prescribe medications when
they just aren't warranted & they just get worse after that.
I'm glad to hear you got him to finally eat! As suggested,
the critical care is very good & can help get some nutrition into him. Is his weight stable or has he lost some weight?
The temperatures sound good for him. The temp guns are very accurate also.
Let us know how he is doing.

Tracie
 

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Does this look like a healthy beardie
LarryTheLizard wrote on ForLeonard!'s profile.
Aww your profile picture is precious ❤️‍🩹
Hey! I'm planning on ordering a 4x2x2 for my next beardie but I'm worried about lighting. I have a UVA and a UVB but they are small (the UVA just being a bulb and the UVB being 12 ish inches?) My house is drafty so I need a strong light that puts off quite a good amount of heat, any suggestions?
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