Estinien is having trouble

Chrismcnicholas

Hatchling Member
Original Poster
Yeah, best not to move things around and stress him too much. BTW , I can't remember why you are trying for the higher humidity, is it to help with shedding ? Because 20ish is low but it's not unhealthy or anything. Another thing you can try to raise the humidity is to get a small plastic container and make pretty big holes all over it, like pencil sized , put a wash cloth in it and wet it very thoroughly. Keep it in the mid range heat zone. Add water anytime it seems to be drying out and wash it with dish soap and vinegar every week but rinse it well.
Just trying to get everything in the correct parameters because he's sleepy and not eating well. The humidity was previously around 10-15 at least with the current hydrometer. Thank you for the tip, will try this is misting isn't helping enough.
 

KarrieRee

BD.org Sicko
Beardie name(s)
Hiccup he is 5 and Blaze is 3
Thanks, going to see if I can find that locally. I've heard some people mist to help with humidity, would that be an option?

This is the basking bulb I have currently, would a different bulb potentially help with ambient temps? This one has a "focused beam" for heat.

View attachment 77165
It does but I would use a water bowl placed on the hot side of the tank - I have used the Repti basking bulb and found they tend to blow rather quickly - dont know if it was a faulty bulb but I have resorted to Flukers basking bulbs no daytime bulbs--- they are not as expensive -
 

KarrieRee

BD.org Sicko
Beardie name(s)
Hiccup he is 5 and Blaze is 3
It does but I would use a water bowl placed on the hot side of the tank - I have used the Repti basking bulb and found they tend to blow rather quickly - dont know if it was a faulty bulb but I have resorted to Flukers basking bulbs no daytime bulbs--- they are not as expensive -
The attachment didn't come thru
 

Chrismcnicholas

Hatchling Member
Original Poster
It does but I would use a water bowl placed on the hot side of the tank - I have used the Repti basking bulb and found they tend to blow rather quickly - dont know if it was a faulty bulb but I have resorted to Flukers basking bulbs no daytime bulbs--- they are not as expensive -
I've tried with the water bowl and it doesn't seem to have any effect. Will look into a flunkers bulb. And of course he's starting a head shed so he's extra grumpy now.
 

KarrieRee

BD.org Sicko
Beardie name(s)
Hiccup he is 5 and Blaze is 3
I've tried with the water bowl and it doesn't seem to have any effect. Will look into a flunkers bulb. And of course he's starting a head shed so he's extra grumpy now.
That is normal- optimal humidity is 40-50% nothing under 20 or over 70%
 

Chrismcnicholas

Hatchling Member
Original Poster
Daily update, he still doesn't want to eat anything. He will notice and watch crickets but not chase them. Salad he seems to pick at a bit, but not a whole lot. He will eat blueberry pieces if hand fed. He continues to keep his mouth slightly gaped on and off, but I'm wondering if since he's starting a head shed if he's having an issue with a nostril shed. He seems fine otherwise no mucous or clicking, just a little sleepy. The only time he's had a black beard there have been other reasons for it (Loud noise, me poking and prodding him, etc.) Humidity continues to be frustrating me, but I don't have the other humidity gage yet. Debating replacing the UVB even though I just swapped it out last month because I feel like I'm running out of things to try.
 

AHBD

BD.org Sicko
Have you offered him dubias, hornworms or a few [ not too many ! ] superworms ? The reason I mention it is because some dragons will go for other new food items so then you know they're partly just bored with what is being offered.
 

Chrismcnicholas

Hatchling Member
Original Poster
Have you offered him dubias, hornworms or a few [ not too many ! ] superworms ? The reason I mention it is because some dragons will go for other new food items so then you know they're partly just bored with what is being offered.
I have not, I can try to see what I can find around me and see how it goes. Usually the hornworms I can find I feel are way too big, and most places don't carry dubias or if they do they're prepackaged and dead. Superworms i've always worried about impactions, but would be willing to try to test if he's just on a hunger strike.
 

AHBD

BD.org Sicko
Large hornworms are fine for beardies, they can eat the finger sized ones because they are soft and liquidy inside. All my sub adult to adult dragons ate the largest ones you could imagine.
 

Chrismcnicholas

Hatchling Member
Original Poster
Large hornworms are fine for beardies, they can eat the finger sized ones because they are soft and liquidy inside. All my sub adult to adult dragons ate the largest ones you could imagine.
Ok, will definitely give it a shot then. Thank you.
 

xp29

Gray-bearded Member
Photo Comp Winner
Beardie name(s)
Zen , Ruby ,Snicker Doodles, Sweet Pea, Sinatra
Large hornworms are fine for beardies, they can eat the finger sized ones because they are soft and liquidy inside. All my sub adult to adult dragons ate the largest ones you could imagine.
I agree i feed the big ones to any dragon that isn't a baby. Just have to make sure they start at the end, or be prepared to pick up the pieces they bite off lol 😆
 

xp29

Gray-bearded Member
Photo Comp Winner
Beardie name(s)
Zen , Ruby ,Snicker Doodles, Sweet Pea, Sinatra
If your habitat permits (i.e. you don't have alot of places for them to hide) you can try giving dubias 1 at a time and get them to run. Beardies are movement motivated (kindda like fish) they will watch a bug all day and never go after it but if it starts running they pounce. If you miss a few dubias it isn't a big deal, they won't bite your beardie like crickets will. The biggest concern is some people get creeped out about them escaping into their house. Unless you live in a tropical climate. They will eventually just die. It takes pretty specific conditions for them to breed.
 

Drache613

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Hello,

The humidity levels are important, but they don't have to be perfect. Like in the wild, the humidity
fluctuates a lot.
Have you tried bee pollen or blackstrap molasses to help with appetite a few times per week?
They can get bored with their eating sometimes but will usually go back to their normal eating
after awhile.

Tracie
 

Chrismcnicholas

Hatchling Member
Original Poster
I think the CHE and basking light mixture I have is just no good, it keeps the basking temp around where it should be but it turns out his cool side was up to 87+ in some places which would explain his random gaping I think. I tried just turning the CHE off and the basking temperature was still good but the cool side was down around 70. Will be trying an incandescent bulb instead of the CHE on the cool side today to see if that raises cool side temps enough. The positive is that once the CHE is off humidity stays above 20. Will also be trying some other bugs tonight if I can find them. I feel bad because I know the constant tinkering is stressing him out.

I saw in another thread that frosted bulbs aren't recommended, is that just for basking or not to be used at all? Having a hard time finding something for the cool side if that is the case seems all the household ones are frosted to some extent.
 
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