For quick bugout in emergency - tornado, hurricane, earthquake, flood, tsusami, insurrection
calico bags or cotton pillow cases are ok to place the pet lizards into to help them travel stress free , I'd have some converted tubs stashed somewhere that are quickly accessible to put in the car or trailer ( will be handy to put other bulky stuff in too while bugging out )
https://www.petwave.com.au/breathable-calico-bags-for-insects-and-reptiles-wi
these are standard kit for local snake catchers here in Australia .
I'd set up some 120L to 130L tubs complete with 12V DC or USB powered heatpads each & Exo Terra NanoHoods with a 26W UVB200 CFB in each.
like
https://www.bunnings.com.au/montgomery-clear-modular-storage-container-128l_p0219788
These are big enough even to keep a full grown bearded dragon in for weeks even if necessary.
57cm high ,so the 26W UVB200 mounted in a NanoHood under the lid will be perfect distance for adequate basking for UVA and UVB when the dragon is ontop a jumbosized hubbahut
77cm long and 40cm wide is enough space for an adult CBD to maneuver about and perfect for hatchling CBDs and juvenile CBD to about 12 months old or so.
These tubs can be set up as long term rearing tanks and stacked.
Access is by uncliplocking the lid and simply lifting one end enough to slide partly off.
I use a similar set up for my water skink and for my hatchling and juvenile bearded dragons , in my case I mount the Nanohood inside attached under the lid
procedure
> unscrew the 4 screws that hold the nanohood reflector in place , lift the reflector out
> place the tub lid upside down on a suitable surface that you wont mind drilling into , locate the upside down nanohood where you want it ( I suggest on long centreline and 1 hoodwide from one end of the lid ) drill suitable sized holes through the top of the hood and through the lid to screw 4x M4 hex head self tapping screws into )
> screw the M4 hexhead screws into place hand tight - to avoid splitting plastic in lid
> replace the reflector and screw unplace
> install UVB200
the cord will need some clothtape to hold it to underside of the lid and will drape over the top lip of the tub when the lid is on and cliplocked in place.
Mini version ( 29L EWS tub )
Fluffy was moved back into this when her tank mate who shared a 120L tub with her died , this is my original skink rescue/hospital tub . Fluffy is an adult eastern water skink , she's 13" TTL and 35g.
At one stage I had 2 adult eastern water skinks and juvenile eastern water skink ( a little boy ) sharing the same 120L tub.
The little male was chased relentlessly the younger adult female so he was moved into the 29L tub , and was fine for couple of months til one day he took advantage of my having the lid off to remove his water dish to clean it and he surprised me by leaping up to the rim of the open tub and then climbed out and went off exploring ( disappearing under the fridge in the kitchen , and then finding is way outside where he spent winter , and is now back inside visiting ( see lounge lizard photo other day ).
The younger female Gutzy died over winter (thought she had gone into brumation when she didn't do her customary TV watch, begging for crickets and pool splashing each day , til I started smelling that smell) , at that point I moved Fluffy back unto the old 29L tub , and gave the 120L tub an thorough F10ing incase what ever took my girl was contagious. That 120L tub is now in storage in my garage for if I ever find someone who has some captive bred baby eastern water skinks or maybe a pair of baby shinglebacks ( a M+F pair would be nice ).
Fluffy was rescued about 5 years ago . So she's getting quite old for a water skink , about 7 years old .
Ventilation
take an electric soldering iron and make 100 holes near bottom of one end of the tub
make 100 holes near to top of the tub at the other end.
minimalist electric heating - either a 7W AC film style heatpad ( sandwiched between 2 layers of ceramic floor tiles or a 12VDC heatpad ( to run directly from a 12V car battery or 12V powertank or a 12V solar panel .
Strongly suggest a simple thermostat to ensure you can maintain a suitable POBT for the dragon, I set my thermostats to 36 degC , the thermostat will ensure the heatpad will NEVER overheat if short (failure) happens to the heatpad's internal temperature limiting cct , the thermostat will sense overtemperature and cut the current.
or
https://www.amazon.com.au/Reptile-Tank-Heating-Pad-Waterproof/dp/B07KXDCCCL/ref=sr_1_24?dchild=1&keywords=7w+heat+pad&qid=1615185560&sr=8-24