Cage question

[whispersinmyhead]

Can the crossfire cage design be used to house a ball python? I am just curious and I am just starting research on it. I already have one built but want to know if it also a good design for a BP. I have fixtures for heat lights at both ends of the cage. All wiring is screwed to the roof (inside) and fixtures are totally enclosed with no exposed wires. There are two dimmers switches in the top corners. Housed hold type in metal boxes. The fluorescent fixture is also a commercial one.

 

[Fuzzyviper]

How old is the ball python? Young ball pythons stress in large enclosures so it's best to keep young ones in a smaller tank for a while. I kept mine in a 10 gallon until he was around a year old. Ball pythons are also nocturnal so basking lights will not be used by the snake. Under the tank heaters usually work best since you can place them so the snake gets belly heat while in its hide. You want a "hot" side hide and a cool side hide so the snake can regulate its temperature while feeling safe. The fluorescent lighting will be fine since it's mostly to light up the cage and for viewing. Otherwise, that tank looks quite spacious for a ball python! They're pretty lazy snakes so you probably won't see him out and about too much but an adult python would do fine in there.

 

[whispersinmyhead]

Thanks so much for the help. I haven't purchased the ball python yet. I am just getting my research done first and I want to have a cage ready. Before I get the snake. I decided to keep our Beardie to as I realized that ball pythons do better in smaller enclosures and I want to use a UTH for heat. So I am not going to convert our crossfire type cage and purchase a proper snake enclosure.

Thanks again for the help.

 

[Fuzzyviper]

No problem at all! I actually keep my ball python in one of those roll under the bed sweater boxes with holes in the lid and an UTH on one side. Plastic tubs REALLY hold the humidity though so make sure you use a substrate that doesn't mold easily if you do it.

 

[AtlasStrike]

FuzzyViper, I do exactly the same thing. I have Atlas, my ball python in a 41 quart, and just moved my corn snake, King Crimson up from the 41 quart to a 90 quart so that he can enjoy the vertical space. Atlas has two UTHs, one set at about 88-90 and one set to 85. King Crimson just has one that stays at a steady 85F. I use table top lamp dimmers and the hydrofarm thermostat to keep everything at the right temperature.

 

[BeardedAaliyah]

I personally like how easy glass tanks are to heat (no worry of plastic melting, etc.), but tubs can be the better option for Ball Pythons, just make sure you have an accurate hygrometer. Our Ball was adopted, so he came with his 40 gallon glass breeder. Belly heat isn't mandatory for all snake (despite what most believe), but in the case of Ball Pythons, I do believe belly heat is the only effective heat source because they are nocturnal and are usually in their hide. Make sure you get a rheostat though - Basil's previous owner had him on a heating pad that reached 114 degrees. As long as the UTH is between 86-95, you're fine.

I have to admit, though, a tub would be easier to deal with considering all the other display tanks in my bedroom.

Best of luck! Since owning snakes, they're my favorite type of pet. Snakes are docile, sweet, easy, and very rewarding to keep. You simply feed them on a 7-10 day cycle, make sure the rodent is the appropriate size (and frozen/thawed), and you're good to go.

:study: Just do your research!

 

[Mediabandit]

Instead of just using a plastic tub you can go all out and give your BP a cool enclosure. My boy loves his and uses every inch of it. He actually loves to swim and climb. Like others have said, no need for heat lamps, you must have a heat pad and give him a hot and cool side. I have a swimming pool and a fountain for Jaxx in his enclosure which is 162G. He loves climbing up and around his fountain and he would rather drink the running water then the water in his bowl. All my pets get R/O water as well that way there is no worry about the chlorine that the city adds to the water supply. You'll need to keep the humidity around 50% and when he is about to shed you'll need to raise that humidity to 70%.
Be careful of the substrate you use as well not all are good for him. I prefer to use critter care as it is soft and hold humidity very well, and is dustless.
I feed him live in a seperate enclosure and switched him to rats instead of mice as soon as he was big enough. But if you prefer to feed frozen/thawed or pre-killed, that is fine too.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask, I would be happy to help you out.

 

[whispersinmyhead]

Some sample pics of my current beardie enclosure and unfortunately due to a tumour diagnosis he won't make it too much longer.

But I think we are going to convert this cage. I am going to move the electrical switches down to the inside the cabinet. I have to screen off the lights and put a lock on the sliding glass doors. I have a few more other things of course.


IMG_0013 by Whispersinmyhead, on Flickr


IMG_0018 by Whispersinmyhead, on Flickr


IMG_0017 by Whispersinmyhead, on Flickr


IMG_0016 by Whispersinmyhead, on Flickr