I recently got an 8 month old male beardie who rejected crickets immediately. Just wasn't interested. So later in the day I tried him with some roaches and he ate a few so I figured he liked them better. Well recently he has decided he doesn't want roaches either but happens to love superworms. Are superworms an okay staple insects if that's all he'll eat? Are there any other staple insects I could try with him? I also have a colony of dubai roaches and crickets that he won't eat, are there any good places to sell them? Thanks!
Hello, I would steer away from supers, as they are higher in fat and hard to process. You said you recently acquired him? If so, he is probably just dealing with some relocation stress, and you just need to give him some time to settle in.
P.S. if you have lots of small/xsmall dubias, pm me
I feed my adults Superworms far more than any other insect because they are so high in fat. They get them every 3 days thought. Crickets and woodies are better i do agree, but with what the people above are saying in relation to treat wise for superworms, the worms are good for juveniles and adults because of their digestive system being that slight bit better than when they were super young. What I have READ from others experience with silk and horn worms, the beardy should have 2 max every 2 weeks because of how addicting they are (like lollies to them). But a tip i can only give is to have them somewhat put inside the lizards mouth to encourage them to eat the insects, not forced but placed. Also NO MEALWORMS due to their keratin/nutrient content.
I feed my adults Superworms far more than any other insect because they are so high in fat. They get them every 3 days thought. Crickets and woodies are better i do agree, but with what the people above are saying in relation to treat wise for superworms, the worms are good for juveniles and adults because of their digestive system being that slight bit better than when they were super young. What I have READ from others experience with silk and horn worms, the beardy should have 2 max every 2 weeks because of how addicting they are (like lollies to them). But a tip i can only give is to have them somewhat put inside the lizards mouth to encourage them to eat the insects, not forced but placed. Also NO MEALWORMS due to their keratin/nutrient content.
how long have you been trying? At 8 months or if recently moved he may just have a low appetite. Supers are fatty and rarely refused, I wouldn't feed them as a staple (on advice from my vet) as high fat diets can lead to issues like fatty liver disease. It took a while for me to break Pepper of his superworms habit... his appetite seems naturally on the low side. As others mentioned silks and BSFL are good choices to.
@darcyjp - what's the justification for feeding high fat feeders over others?
I agree with most all of the others. Superworms are often a bit controversial, but I think it is widely accepted that they are not good as a sole feeder. When mixed with a varied diet, they are fine. Taterbug, Jess, and SHBailey are all very knowledgeable so I would take their advice.
Beardies often require some time to adjust to a new setting (even as adults). How recently did you get him? Is he eating veggies? Around one year of age (it varies) beardies generally start to slow down on insects and switch over to a diet with more veggies. It could be either this or adjustment. If he isn't eating veggies either and this continues for awhile, I would reccomend a vet visit. Various things, parasites for example, can affect diets. In fact, a general vet checkup and stool test are a good idea for a newly acquired beardie.
Darcy- Why would you choose to feed a higher fat diet? As earlier stated supers are fine in a varied diet but not great as a staple insect. Silkworms are actually one of the best feeders out there, albeit a bit pricey.
I haven't fed hornworms but I was under the impression that they are fine and great hydrates. Is this the case?
Skipper - large hornworms close to pupation can be high in fat (so diet dependent) but I think in most places the cost of them limits their use in a diet to reasonable amounts.
My biggest problem with hornworms is that they grow really big really fast, so you can't keep them around for very long. We used to be able to get one or two small ones at a time at the place where we were buying most of our other reptile food several years ago, so I'd give them to our beardie for special treats as soon as we got home. They are pretty high in moisture as I recall, but by the time they get close to pupation they're probably too big for most beardies to handle, and not only that, they stop moving around enough to be interesting.
So I'd recommend that if you can find them at a reasonable price for small quantities, don't buy more than your beardie can eat while they're still little and active.
I feed my adults Superworms far more than any other insect because they are so high in fat. They get them every 3 days thought. Crickets and woodies are better i do agree, but with what the people above are saying in relation to treat wise for superworms, the worms are good for juveniles and adults because of their digestive system being that slight bit better than when they were super young. What I have READ from others experience with silk and horn worms, the beardy should have 2 max every 2 weeks because of how addicting they are (like lollies to them). But a tip i can only give is to have them somewhat put inside the lizards mouth to encourage them to eat the insects, not forced but placed. Also NO MEALWORMS due to their keratin/nutrient content.
I feed my adults Superworms far more than any other insect because they are so high in fat. They get them every 3 days thought. Crickets and woodies are better i do agree, but with what the people above are saying in relation to treat wise for superworms, the worms are good for juveniles and adults because of their digestive system being that slight bit better than when they were super young. What I have READ from others experience with silk and horn worms, the beardy should have 2 max every 2 weeks because of how addicting they are (like lollies to them). But a tip i can only give is to have them somewhat put inside the lizards mouth to encourage them to eat the insects, not forced but placed. Also NO MEALWORMS due to their keratin/nutrient content.