I got my new beardie about 2 weeks ago, I had a beardie previously for years before he passed. My beardie will eat his greens without a problem and the first week I fed him crickets just fine, but two days ago I switched it up with worms, I tried mealworms, super worms, and calciworms, he won’t go for them. I hand feed him his greens but he wasn’t interested in me hand feeding him insects so I put them in his terrarium nearby so he would see them moving. I checked later and all the worms were still there, I made sure I counted to be sure today and not a single worm was eaten. I know all beardies are different so I wanted to see if someone else has had this problem since my first beardie had a very good appetite (only with insects, he was more difficult with his greens). Any help or advice would be appreciated.
I got my new beardie about 2 weeks ago, I had a beardie previously for years before he passed. My beardie will eat his greens without a problem and the first week I fed him crickets just fine, but two days ago I switched it up with worms, I tried mealworms, super worms, and calciworms, he won’t go for them. I hand feed him his greens but he wasn’t interested in me hand feeding him insects so I put them in his terrarium nearby so he would see them moving. I checked later and all the worms were still there, I made sure I counted to be sure today and not a single worm was eaten. I know all beardies are different so I wanted to see if someone else has had this problem since my first beardie had a very good appetite (only with insects, he was more difficult with his greens). Any help or advice would be appreciated.
That is odd that hes not eating any of them - they usually go for the worms before the insects-- how old is the dragon--- if a baby I would not feed him he meal worms - too hard on the stomach -- the calci and supers would be fine - could be relocation stress --- they will go thru a period of that slowing the eating down - you could lay off of them for a week and try again
Karrie
I have a zoomed reptisun 10.0 13watt UVB bulb and a zoomed 100watt basking bulb in a 50 gal tank. Nonadhesive shelf liner for substrate. I have a digital thermometer on his basking rock and one on his cool side to gauge at a glance but I also use the zoomed thermometer gun for spot checking. His basking spot is usually around 95-100 and his cool side is 80-85. It’s not necessarily his appetite in general because he will eat crickets and his greens/fruits without problem, he just won’t touch the worms.
10.0 13watt UVB bulb - This is a problem---- this is not what is causing the worm eating issue but it is going to cause a lot of issues down the road---- Here is some info for you on UVB's
Which UVB light should I use?
The best UVB light is a ReptiSun 10.0 fluorescent tube HO (Or Arcardia 12% in the UK). Compact or coil bulbs do not emit the proper amount of UVB light for a bearded dragon, and should not be used. Other brands, such as the Zilla Desert Series and ReptiGlo have been known to cause eye problems and other health issues with bearded dragons, and should be avoided. The reason that some UVB lights (Zilla, ReptiGlo, coils/compacts, ect.) are considered dangerous is because the wavelength of UVB that they emit is shorter and more intense than the wavelength of the "safe" lights (ReptiSun, Arcadia). UVB lights should be replaced every 6 months. The T5’s are a strong bulb and only need to be replaced once a year – the T 8 every 6 months--- where as the T 8 are not as strong—they need to be placed inside the tank the T 5 10.0 bulb approx 12-15 inches from basking spot – the T 8 approx 8-10 inches from basking spot—the cover needs to be off the bulb for full effect of the UVB rays--
I recommend you get this changed out ASAP--- as big as the tank is hes basically getting NO UVB --- you have a beautiful tank but for the health of your baby please get a better UVB ---
Karrie