Bearded dragon not responsive and no urate in poop

Status
Not open for further replies.
Ok so yesterday my bearded dragon was acting kind of strange. First, there was no urate in her poop, but she seemed fine so I didn't think anything of it. Then, about 5 hours later, I tried to feed her superworms and she was unresponsive and I saw she didn't eat her salad from the morning. She usually jumps up from her hammock and runs over to the dish, but she just layed there with her head on the ground. I then took her out of the encloser to see if I could find what was wrong. When I took her out, she was very dark in color but was not black bearded. I then thought she was dehydrated so I got her water but she would not drink it, even with it dropped on her nose. So then I got her baby food and tried that (the kind I have is mostly water and some peas) she ate that and then seemed more alert. I tong fed her 8 superworms and she ate the other 2 on her own. Then, today when I woke up she was under her log, still laying there from the night before but she was alert.she is usually on her hammock above the log when I wake up, so this worried me. Is there any explanation for this weird behavior? I was thinking burmation but I'm not exactly sure since this is my first time owning a beardie

Age: 1 and a half? (Estimated, she was a rescue)
Size: 16 inches
Size of the enclosure: 55 gallon fish tank (soon to be a 40 gallon breeder or a costom made 55 gallon reptile cage)
Temperatures: 75-80 on the cool side and 90-100 on the warm side (usually around 97 or so)
Type of substrate: repti-carpet
Diet: salads offered every morning. Every other day she gets superworms dusted with calcium without d2. On the days she doesn't get superworms, she gets another salad during the evening. Every Wednesday her salad is dusted with a multivitamin.
 

EllenD

Gray-bearded Member
Can you post photos of her currently, her entire enclosure, and her lighting?

You didn't list what lights you have, specifically your UVB.

And what type of thermometer are you using? I suspect you have stick-on ones, which are awful and usually off by up to 20 degrees, plus you have no idea what her basking spot temperature is, which is extremely important, especially if she is refusing to bask. You could literally be cooking her, which can cause lethargy and hiding, but also if she eats 10 superworms then refuses to bask, she can easily become impacted and/or not properly digest her food nor absorb any nutrition...You need to go buy a digital thermometer with a probe on a wire ASAP, and take her Basking Spot, Hot Side Ambient, and Cool Side Ambient temperatures with it, allowing the probe to sit on each spot for at least 20-30 minutes each time before you read the temperature. If you're reading 90-100 degrees on a stick-on thermometer for her Hot Side Ambient temperature, that could in reality actually be 110-120, which is in the dangerous to lethal range, and naturally the temperature on her Basking Spot that is closer to the basking bulb and is a surface she has to lay on could be lethal.
 

MaxxAMouse

Member
Original Poster
EllenD":3q1ba08o said:
Can you post photos of her currently, her entire enclosure, and her lighting?

You didn't list what lights you have, specifically your UVB.

And what type of thermometer are you using? I suspect you have stick-on ones, which are awful and usually off by up to 20 degrees, plus you have no idea what her basking spot temperature is, which is extremely important, especially if she is refusing to bask. You could literally be cooking her, which can cause lethargy and hiding, but also if she eats 10 superworms then refuses to bask, she can easily become impacted and/or not properly digest her food nor absorb any nutrition...You need to go buy a digital thermometer with a probe on a wire ASAP, and take her Basking Spot, Hot Side Ambient, and Cool Side Ambient temperatures with it, allowing the probe to sit on each spot for at least 20-30 minutes each time before you read the temperature. If you're reading 90-100 degrees on a stick-on thermometer for her Hot Side Ambient temperature, that could in reality actually be 110-120, which is in the dangerous to lethal range, and naturally the temperature on her Basking Spot that is closer to the basking bulb and is a surface she has to lay on could be lethal.

I actually don't have any pictures of her, but I do have some pictures other closer I can attach when I get home. She seems to be doing much better actually.

As for the light, im pretty sure I have reptisun 10.0 (the tube one) on the cool side and I will definitely buy a new thermometer, as I have the round stick on digital and traditional ones. For now, I'll just turn the light down (with a dimmer) and my ceramic heat emitter will be turned down a bunch.
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
MaxxAMouse":1pb6kg83 said:
Ok so yesterday my bearded dragon was acting kind of strange. First, there was no urate in her poop, but she seemed fine so I didn't think anything of it. Then, about 5 hours later, I tried to feed her superworms and she was unresponsive and I saw she didn't eat her salad from the morning. She usually jumps up from her hammock and runs over to the dish, but she just layed there with her head on the ground. I then took her out of the encloser to see if I could find what was wrong. When I took her out, she was very dark in color but was not black bearded. I then thought she was dehydrated so I got her water but she would not drink it, even with it dropped on her nose. So then I got her baby food and tried that (the kind I have is mostly water and some peas) she ate that and then seemed more alert. I tong fed her 8 superworms and she ate the other 2 on her own.
<<< 8 superworms is a huge meal even for full grown adult about 600 - 700 g . No more than one or two per day, personally I'd never give more than 2 superworms more often than twice per week.

Better feeders for your juvenile / subadult are :

Subadult (12 months - 24 months)
one insect feed per day
+ offer fresh high calcium greens daily

Adult
I still give one insect meal per day (but it's smaller than the subadults get) + high calcium greens .

Good staple insects
>> BSF maggots
>> silkworms
medium (1.5 - 2 inch for larger hatchlings and juveniles)
large ( > 2 inch for beardies older than 12 months.
>> crickets / roaches / locusts , must be gutloaded with calcium rich foods and greens & dusted LIGHTLY with calcium powder.

Repashi GRUBPIE is acceptable as a backup food.

Hard and soft pellets are dubious , ok mixed in as softened croutons through their greens/salad (maybe).

Bites = rubbish food.
Canned insects = rubbish
Vacuum dried insects = rubbish.

Insects suitable for treats
wax worms
if beardie older than 12 months , not before
mealworms (lavae , pupae and beetles)
superworms (lavae , pupae and beetles)


Then, today when I woke up she was under her log, still laying there from the night before but she was alert.she is usually on her hammock above the log when I wake up, so this worried me. Is there any explanation for this weird behavior? I was thinking burmation but I'm not exactly sure since this is my first time owning a beardie

Age: 1 and a half? (Estimated, she was a rescue)
Size: 16 inches
Size of the enclosure: 55 gallon fish tank (soon to be a 40 gallon breeder or a costom made 55 gallon reptile cage)
Temperatures: 75-80 on the cool side and 90-100 on the warm side (usually around 97 or so)
Type of substrate: repti-carpet
Diet: salads offered every morning. Every other day she gets superworms dusted with calcium without d2. On the days she doesn't get superworms, she gets another salad during the evening. Every Wednesday her salad is dusted with a multivitamin.

Strong possibility she is either or a combination the following :
>>> impacted , too many superworms per feed which have a very hard to digest exoskeleton (can you feel any hard lumps in her tummy ?)
>>> issues with her liver (fatty liver desease due to using superworms as a staple feeder insect).
refer to viewtopic.php?f=76&t=234999&p=1807834#p1807834
Superworms are high fat content (15%) and very poor Ca/P. Phos binds calcium. <--- need to consult a reptile vet
>>> calcium deficient due to diet and in adequate dietary calcium intake. <---- need to consult a reptile vet
>>> poor UVB source <---- new 10-12% UVB light ,set up correctly
>>> improper temperatures <----- new thermometer and then adjust the basking globe and basking spot .
 

MaxxAMouse

Member
Original Poster
kingofnobbys":1cfeks8x said:
MaxxAMouse":1cfeks8x said:
Ok so yesterday my bearded dragon was acting kind of strange. First, there was no urate in her poop, but she seemed fine so I didn't think anything of it. Then, about 5 hours later, I tried to feed her superworms and she was unresponsive and I saw she didn't eat her salad from the morning. She usually jumps up from her hammock and runs over to the dish, but she just layed there with her head on the ground. I then took her out of the encloser to see if I could find what was wrong. When I took her out, she was very dark in color but was not black bearded. I then thought she was dehydrated so I got her water but she would not drink it, even with it dropped on her nose. So then I got her baby food and tried that (the kind I have is mostly water and some peas) she ate that and then seemed more alert. I tong fed her 8 superworms and she ate the other 2 on her own.
<<< 8 superworms is a huge meal even for full grown adult about 600 - 700 g . No more than one or two per day, personally I'd never give more than 2 superworms more often than twice per week.

Better feeders for your juvenile / subadult are :

Subadult (12 months - 24 months)
one insect feed per day
+ offer fresh high calcium greens daily

Adult
I still give one insect meal per day (but it's smaller than the subadults get) + high calcium greens .

Good staple insects
>> BSF maggots
>> silkworms
medium (1.5 - 2 inch for larger hatchlings and juveniles)
large ( > 2 inch for beardies older than 12 months.
>> crickets / roaches / locusts , must be gutloaded with calcium rich foods and greens & dusted LIGHTLY with calcium powder.

Repashi GRUBPIE is acceptable as a backup food.

Hard and soft pellets are dubious , ok mixed in as softened croutons through their greens/salad (maybe).

Bites = rubbish food.
Canned insects = rubbish
Vacuum dried insects = rubbish.

Insects suitable for treats
wax worms
if beardie older than 12 months , not before
mealworms (lavae , pupae and beetles)
superworms (lavae , pupae and beetles)


Then, today when I woke up she was under her log, still laying there from the night before but she was alert.she is usually on her hammock above the log when I wake up, so this worried me. Is there any explanation for this weird behavior? I was thinking burmation but I'm not exactly sure since this is my first time owning a beardie

Age: 1 and a half? (Estimated, she was a rescue)
Size: 16 inches
Size of the enclosure: 55 gallon fish tank (soon to be a 40 gallon breeder or a costom made 55 gallon reptile cage)
Temperatures: 75-80 on the cool side and 90-100 on the warm side (usually around 97 or so)
Type of substrate: repti-carpet
Diet: salads offered every morning. Every other day she gets superworms dusted with calcium without d2. On the days she doesn't get superworms, she gets another salad during the evening. Every Wednesday her salad is dusted with a multivitamin.

Strong possibility she is either or a combination the following :
>>> impacted , too many superworms per feed which have a very hard to digest exoskeleton (can you feel any hard lumps in her tummy ?)
>>> issues with her liver (fatty liver desease due to using superworms as a staple feeder insect).
refer to viewtopic.php?f=76&t=234999&p=1807834#p1807834
Superworms are high fat content (15%) and very poor Ca/P. Phos binds calcium. <--- need to consult a reptile vet
>>> calcium deficient due to diet and in adequate dietary calcium intake. <---- need to consult a reptile vet
>>> poor UVB source <---- new 10-12% UVB light ,set up correctly
>>> improper temperatures <----- new thermometer and then adjust the basking globe and basking spot .

she isn't showing any signs of impacted, so it is definitely not that.

I changed her diet to dubia roaches (5-6 every other day, dusted with calcium) and I also changed her uvb light. She seems to be doing a little better, as she is eating her salad again and is alert. She still isn't 100% so I'm going to be bringing her to the vet next week to see if it is anything major.
 

EllenD

Gray-bearded Member
Okay, neither UVB bulb you have is adequate for a bearded dragon, but the one that I guess you're using now from AliExpress is complete garbage, I don't know why you switched from the compact Reptisun 10.0 to that bulb, but you need to turn it off immediately. I guarantee you that this cheap junky bulb is not only not emitting any UVB light appropriate for your beardie, but it's most likely emitting harmful rays that are going to cause additional problems, most importantly eye damage. You should never, ever, ever use cheap bulbs from AliExpress as a UVB source for a reptile, they are just
Chinese garbage, which is why they are so cheap. She's much better off without any UVB light for a few days than being under that bulb any longer.

The compact Reptisun 10.0 13 watt bulb you were using is not harmful like the other one, it just doesn't emit nearly enough UVB light for a bearded dragon. They have very specific and strong UVB and UVA light needs to grow, to develop bone density, to digest their food, and to absorb any nutrition. The 13 watt compact Reptisun 10.0 needs to be within 3-4" of your beardie to emit adequate UVB light for her, and it's dangerous to her eyes to have a light that close. In addition, if you have a mesh lid that this compact Reptisun is sitting on, which I assume you do, the mesh is blocking up to 50% of the already too-weak UVB light, so if this is the case with the mesh lid, she's essentially getting no UVB light...which is still better than using that cheap Chinese bulb from AliExpress...

I don't know why you stopped using the compact Reptisun 10.0 and switched to that cheap bulb, but if you still have the compact Reptisun 10.0 bulb, which I think you do, you need to figure out a way to get it mounted inside the enclosure and under the mesh lid. The easiest way, especially if it's in a deep dome fixture and not a clamp lamp, is to cut a hole out of the mesh under the actual bulb, so that the mesh isn't blocking the light, but the fixture can still sit on top of the lid. If you are using a clamp lamp then just remove the lid all together. Either way, you're going to have to raise her basking spot to at least within 6" from the unobstructed Reptisun compact bulb for her to at least get a little UVB light until you can order an appropriate UVB tube and fixture for her, because she needs one ASAP. Lack of UVB and UVA light is already negatively effecting her appetite and no doubt her bone density, so you absolutely must order a new, adequate UVB tube and fixture ASAP. Amazon.com is by far the cheapest place to order one of the two adequate tubes out there, either a Reptisun 10.0 tube (T8 or T5 High-Output) or an Arcadia 12% tube.

No matter which brand you go with they are both very strong, effective, and efficient UVB tubes for bearded dragons, really the only adequate tubes on the market. Whichever you choose, you'll need either an 18" or a 24" long for your size enclosure, and a matching length fixture.

The Reptisun 10.0 T8 is the weaker of the two Reptisun tubes, but is very adequate and effective if mounted correctly. It cannot sit on top of a mesh lid and the long UVB fixture must be mounted inside the enclosure and under the mesh lid, and must be within 6-8" of her main basking spot. The T8 must be replaced every 6 months as it stops emitting any UVB at that point. If you choose the stronger Reptisun 10.0 T5HO UVB tube, it can sit on top of the mesh lid because it is strong enough to penetrate through it, but it still must be within 11" of her main basking spot. The Reptisun 10.0 T5HO needs replaced once a year. The Arcadia 12% tube has the same requirements as the Reptisun 10.0 T5HO...by the way, never buy a 5.0 UVB tube, always a 10.0 for bearded dragons.

If you go on Amazon.com and search "Reptisun 10.0 T5HO UVB tube" you'll get a bunch of length choices and price choices. The T5HO tube comes in weird sizes like 16", 22", 36", etc., but the tubes still fit in normally sized tube fixtures, like 18", 24", 36", etc. I know for a fact (because I just ordered 3) that you can actually buy the 10.0 T5HO in a 22" length for less than an 18" T8 right now on Amazon, I paid $22 for a 22" Reptisun 10.0 T5HO on Amazon last week, which is a great price. No matter what UVB tube you choose, once you get on it's page on Amazon and scroll down, they will offer you a package deal for the tube and the cheapest available matching length tube fixture for that tube. Just be sure that the tube fixture has a reflector built into it behind where the tube goes, because you absolutely have to have one to reflect the UVB light throughout the enclosure. They also sell generic clip-on reflectors in each length if you search for it on Amazon, they're cheap.

Something else that is very, very important for you to do is putting both your UVB tube and your bright white basking light RIGHT ALONGSIDE EACH OTHER, ON THE HOT SIDE OF YOUR ENCLOSURE, BOTH DIRECTLY OVER HER MAIN BASKING SPOT. You mentioned that you had your UVB light over the "Cold Side", which is a major problem. Your goal with your lighting is to replicate natural sunlight as closely as possible directly over top of her basking spot. So both lights need to be right next to each other and over top of her basking spot in the hot side, so she gets both lights at the same time while basking. You shouldn't need any light at all over the cool side unless you have a massive enclosure. Most people that have a 40 gallon breeder tank need only a single, 100 watt bright white basking bulb (can just use a regular 100 watt household, halogen indoor flood bulb, they are all bright white; no need for an expensive, reptile specialty basking bulb at all) and then either an 18" or 24" long 10.0 UVB tube, both sitting over the basking spot in the hot side. That's it.
 

MaxxAMouse

Member
Original Poster
EllenD":1a6t0atu said:
Okay, neither UVB bulb you have is adequate for a bearded dragon, but the one that I guess you're using now from AliExpress is complete garbage, I don't know why you switched from the compact Reptisun 10.0 to that bulb, but you need to turn it off immediately. I guarantee you that this cheap junky bulb is not only not emitting any UVB light appropriate for your beardie, but it's most likely emitting harmful rays that are going to cause additional problems, most importantly eye damage. You should never, ever, ever use cheap bulbs from AliExpress as a UVB source for a reptile, they are just
Chinese garbage, which is why they are so cheap. She's much better off without any UVB light for a few days than being under that bulb any longer.

The compact Reptisun 10.0 13 watt bulb you were using is not harmful like the other one, it just doesn't emit nearly enough UVB light for a bearded dragon. They have very specific and strong UVB and UVA light needs to grow, to develop bone density, to digest their food, and to absorb any nutrition. The 13 watt compact Reptisun 10.0 needs to be within 3-4" of your beardie to emit adequate UVB light for her, and it's dangerous to her eyes to have a light that close. In addition, if you have a mesh lid that this compact Reptisun is sitting on, which I assume you do, the mesh is blocking up to 50% of the already too-weak UVB light, so if this is the case with the mesh lid, she's essentially getting no UVB light...which is still better than using that cheap Chinese bulb from AliExpress...

I don't know why you stopped using the compact Reptisun 10.0 and switched to that cheap bulb, but if you still have the compact Reptisun 10.0 bulb, which I think you do, you need to figure out a way to get it mounted inside the enclosure and under the mesh lid. The easiest way, especially if it's in a deep dome fixture and not a clamp lamp, is to cut a hole out of the mesh under the actual bulb, so that the mesh isn't blocking the light, but the fixture can still sit on top of the lid. If you are using a clamp lamp then just remove the lid all together. Either way, you're going to have to raise her basking spot to at least within 6" from the unobstructed Reptisun compact bulb for her to at least get a little UVB light until you can order an appropriate UVB tube and fixture for her, because she needs one ASAP. Lack of UVB and UVA light is already negatively effecting her appetite and no doubt her bone density, so you absolutely must order a new, adequate UVB tube and fixture ASAP. Amazon.com is by far the cheapest place to order one of the two adequate tubes out there, either a Reptisun 10.0 tube (T8 or T5 High-Output) or an Arcadia 12% tube.

No matter which brand you go with they are both very strong, effective, and efficient UVB tubes for bearded dragons, really the only adequate tubes on the market. Whichever you choose, you'll need either an 18" or a 24" long for your size enclosure, and a matching length fixture.

The Reptisun 10.0 T8 is the weaker of the two Reptisun tubes, but is very adequate and effective if mounted correctly. It cannot sit on top of a mesh lid and the long UVB fixture must be mounted inside the enclosure and under the mesh lid, and must be within 6-8" of her main basking spot. The T8 must be replaced every 6 months as it stops emitting any UVB at that point. If you choose the stronger Reptisun 10.0 T5HO UVB tube, it can sit on top of the mesh lid because it is strong enough to penetrate through it, but it still must be within 11" of her main basking spot. The Reptisun 10.0 T5HO needs replaced once a year. The Arcadia 12% tube has the same requirements as the Reptisun 10.0 T5HO...by the way, never buy a 5.0 UVB tube, always a 10.0 for bearded dragons.

If you go on Amazon.com and search "Reptisun 10.0 T5HO UVB tube" you'll get a bunch of length choices and price choices. The T5HO tube comes in weird sizes like 16", 22", 36", etc., but the tubes still fit in normally sized tube fixtures, like 18", 24", 36", etc. I know for a fact (because I just ordered 3) that you can actually buy the 10.0 T5HO in a 22" length for less than an 18" T8 right now on Amazon, I paid $22 for a 22" Reptisun 10.0 T5HO on Amazon last week, which is a great price. No matter what UVB tube you choose, once you get on it's page on Amazon and scroll down, they will offer you a package deal for the tube and the cheapest available matching length tube fixture for that tube. Just be sure that the tube fixture has a reflector built into it behind where the tube goes, because you absolutely have to have one to reflect the UVB light throughout the enclosure. They also sell generic clip-on reflectors in each length if you search for it on Amazon, they're cheap.

Something else that is very, very important for you to do is putting both your UVB tube and your bright white basking light RIGHT ALONGSIDE EACH OTHER, ON THE HOT SIDE OF YOUR ENCLOSURE, BOTH DIRECTLY OVER HER MAIN BASKING SPOT. You mentioned that you had your UVB light over the "Cold Side", which is a major problem. Your goal with your lighting is to replicate natural sunlight as closely as possible directly over top of her basking spot. So both lights need to be right next to each other and over top of her basking spot in the hot side, so she gets both lights at the same time while basking. You shouldn't need any light at all over the cool side unless you have a massive enclosure. Most people that have a 40 gallon breeder tank need only a single, 100 watt bright white basking bulb (can just use a regular 100 watt household, halogen indoor flood bulb, they are all bright white; no need for an expensive, reptile specialty basking bulb at all) and then either an 18" or 24" long 10.0 UVB tube, both sitting over the basking spot in the hot side. That's it.

I don't know what made you think I had the aliexpress bulb for her. I switched her from a reptisun 10.0 TUBE to an Arcadia 12%. I also have a 5'x2' cage, so I cannot fit all the bulbs on one side. She does go to the cool side atleast 1 hour per day. He is also allowed around 1 hour outside every day, so he also gets his uvb from that. On the hot side he has 2 bulbs, a 75watt white basking bulb and a 100watt CHE. This is because the basking bulb does not produce enough heat.
 

EllenD

Gray-bearded Member
You need to check your link that you posted as "the UVB you are now using", because it goes right to a junky bulb on AliExpress, that's why...

And once again I'll say this, you're trying to replicate natural sunlight, so you need to have the Arcadia UVB tube right alongside the basking bulb and both over the basking spot on the hot side! She absolutely must get both at the same time while basking! Putting an Arcadia UVB tube over the Cool Side is pointless, whether she spends an hour over there or not each day, beardies need at least 13-14 hours under both lights every single day! You shouldn't need a CHE next to your bright white basking bulb at all, if your Basking Spot and hot side are too cold, that means your Basking Bulb isn't a high enough wattage! She doesn't need heat from a CHE while basking at all, she needs a high enough wattage bright white basking bulb to get her basking spot and hot side to the appropriate temperatures, and her UVB tube right next to it at the same time, SIMULATING NATURAL SUNLIGHT!

So get rid of the CHE over the hot side, that is no excuse to not have her UVB tube over her basking spot alongside the basking bulb. Buy a higher wattage basking bulb to get the correct temps and this way you ensure that she's getting enough hours of UVB and UVA light. Realize that an hour under her UVB light on the Cool Side does not help her digest her food at all, after she eats she climbs under her basking bulb on her Basking Spot...But her UVB tube isn't there...How is this helping her digest her food and absorb nutrients?

Posted by moderator: We suggest you word things more politely and not be so demanding with the info you are recommending. All we can do is make suggestions. We do not tolerate rude behavior here so before you hit the "submit" button, we suggest you re-read what you are sending to members! Recommend you re-read this policy on Rude Behavior. viewtopic.php?f=48&t=65765
 

MaxxAMouse

Member
Original Poster
EllenD":lbxfcq7z said:
You need to check your link that you posted as "the UVB you are now using", because it goes right to a junky bulb on AliExpress, that's why...

And once again I'll say this, you're trying to replicate natural sunlight, so you need to have the Arcadia UVB tube right alongside the basking bulb and both over the basking spot on the hot side! She absolutely must get both at the same time while basking! Putting an Arcadia UVB tube over the Cool Side is pointless, whether she spends an hour over there or not each day, beardies need at least 13-14 hours under both lights every single day! You shouldn't need a CHE next to your bright white basking bulb at all, if your Basking Spot and hot side are too cold, that means your Basking Bulb isn't a high enough wattage! She doesn't need heat from a CHE while basking at all, she needs a high enough wattage bright white basking bulb to get her basking spot and hot side to the appropriate temperatures, and her UVB tube right next to it at the same time, SIMULATING NATURAL SUNLIGHT!

So get rid of the CHE over the hot side, that is no excuse to not have her UVB tube over her basking spot alongside the basking bulb. Buy a higher wattage basking bulb to get the correct temps and this way you ensure that she's getting enough hours of UVB and UVA light. Realize that an hour under her UVB light on the Cool Side does not help her digest her food at all, after she eats she climbs under her basking bulb on her Basking Spot...But her UVB tube isn't there...How is this helping her digest her food and absorb nutrients?

I did not post any link? Also, I got her a whole new setup which I was planning on doing since I got her. The other setup was temporary and that's why the lights were on different sides. She recovered about a week after I first posted this topic, I'm pretty sure the temps were reading wrong and she was way to hot. I have a temp gun now and not the crappy thermometers. Anyways, she's all good now, thanks to everyone that helped me figure out what was wrong. She's been eating strong and everything seems normal!
 

EllenD

Gray-bearded Member
I'm glad she's doing better and that you improved her lighting, temps, and diet, it's very important...but you absolutely did originally post a link underneath where you wrote "This is the UVB light I'm using now", and it went right to a cheap, junky, round light bulb on Ali Express, LOL. I don't know why or how you did it, but you did it, I wasn't the only one who saw it, I believe AHBD responded before I did saying "Where on earth did you get that bulb from?", lol. It's okay, just as long as you didn't waste money on something like that, I don't even know what that bulb was, it scared me that your dragon was underneath it!! LOL, it's funny how a wrong click or an accidental "copy" or "pasted" can screw something up...

Posted by moderator: Perhaps you made a mistake and have this OP confused with another. He has a good UVB bulb now that he is using, so just let it drop.
 

MaxxAMouse

Member
Original Poster
EllenD":3q80cvtj said:
I'm glad she's doing better and that you improved her lighting, temps, and diet, it's very important...but you absolutely did originally post a link underneath where you wrote "This is the UVB light I'm using now", and it went right to a cheap, junky, round light bulb on Ali Express, LOL. I don't know why or how you did it, but you did it, I wasn't the only one who saw it, I believe AHBD responded before I did saying "Where on earth did you get that bulb from?", lol. It's okay, just as long as you didn't waste money on something like that, I don't even know what that bulb was, it scared me that your dragon was underneath it!! LOL, it's funny how a wrong click or an accidental "copy" or "pasted" can screw something up...

Ok wait where is the link? Can you quote it? I seriously haven't seen it??? I've looked through this thread and I haven't even said "this is the uvb light I'm using now" and I don't even know how to link things in a thread as I'm still quite new to the site??
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Members online

No members online now.

Latest resources

Latest posts

Latest profile posts

Any thoughts an knowledge will be helpful. Thank u
Im needing some questions answered about my female beardeddragon, I honestly have no idea on age , she was a recuse, as ive had a couple in my life an have experience. So 9 weeks in , she earing well pooping well getting comfortable, then approx 3-4 days ago the digging started. So I got a dig box set up in her 75 g tank. Well within 2 hours she dropped an egg. Now only one egg an its been 10 hours.shouldiBworried
В санатории "Сукно" вас ждет полное погружение в мир здоровья и релакса. Эксперты санатория разработают индивидуальную программу оздоровления, которая поможет вам чувствовать себя лучше. Для получения дополнительной информации посетите наш сайт putevka.com/krasnodar/sukko
I just set Swordtail's timer for his bath and paused it so I could actually fill his soaking bowl up and he crawled over my phone and canceled the timer 🤣
Mirage came out of brumation on April 26. He was doing great. On May 2 he started acting funny. We just redid his tank, and he keeps going into one of his hides. He just lays there. He shows no intrest in food. HELP!

Forum statistics

Threads
156,394
Messages
1,260,764
Members
76,225
Latest member
kwe6634ee1
Top Bottom