I'm using a temp gun and digital thermometer to record the temp. I have been running the light for about 2 hours or so now and the cool end has pretty much not budged from that temp.
You might need to add an extra bulb in the middle or cool end.
Is your tank made of wood? Or does it have too much ventilation? Wood usually holds in heat really well. I have the opposite problem with my 4x2x2s. Cool side gets too hot lol.
Yes my vivarium is made of wood. I only have 2 vents on on the right (hot side) at the top and one at the cool side at the bottom. I have a small hole at the back for wires. My doors have draught seal on them. So you think another bulb. I have seen others with larger vivariums with only 1 so could I maybe get a halogen bulb or something.
Both bulbs are smaller diameters than what you currently have (PAR30 and PAR25 respectively), and the second one is a spot rather than a flood.
I can think of a couple things you might try. First, block off the vent on the cold side, and see if that will bring the temps up (the other vents are more than enough for fresh air for the time being).
Can't tell how thick your plywood is. If less than 3/4" (18 mm) you could try insulating the sides, back, & top. If it's 3/4" (18 mm) or thicker, insulation may not help--it also depends on the core material.
If you go to a hotter bulb, I'd go for the same size (PAR38). This could be a higher wattage incandescent (like you have) or a halogen at/near the same wattage.
A second bulb is an option (but I'd go with a lower wattage than the basking lamp), or perhaps a dimmable CHE.
I think you should be aiming for getting the whole enclosure warm enough first, then tackle the basking light. Can't tell if that fixture is fixed or aim-able. If the latter, you can tip the bulb at an angle, and move the basking place to be further from the hotter bulb, while keeping it the same distance from the UVB. Hope that makes sense--it's what I had to do. It also gave me a basing area with a range of temperatures from mid 90s to 110F.
Thank you I originally bought one but it was to small so decided to build one myself.
Ah ok so same Par but higher wattage thanks the plywood is 18mm. I will also try and modify my bracket to aim the bulb as you said. Do you think its a good distance from the top of my enclosure atm of would bringing it down a little help ?
I think that depends on how you modify the fixture, or what you replace it with--it's really up to you.
There are many types of aim-able (the spell-checker doesn't like "aimable") fixtures. I have a recessed eyeball fixture... (Requires 6-8" above enclosure ceiling; I built to accommodate)
... but it requires incandescent PAR30 bulbs which are nigh impossible to get here anymore (halogens get too hot and burn out within a day :x ). Other styles will take PAR38 or other sizes.
With this arrangement, temperatures on that basking platform range from 110°F on the near side to mid-90s on the far side. ZaRDoZ can move where he wants depending on... his mood(?) :roll:
While I was finishing the enclosure, I used a clamp work light w/ reflector available almost anywhere (check max. wattage against bulbs you may use in it).