Alle":5cvovs25 said:I have a heating lamp, at the right distance, it has light 12/14 hours a day but I haven't managed to get a UVB bulb just yet (I will only get it tomorrow), but I kept him in the sun (half of the tank exposed) for a few hours daily to get as much UV as possible until tomorrow.
I did think it might be cause it is too young but I googled images of beardies at about three weeks and their eyes are open (if google images is a reliable source)
<<< unfortunately virtually zero UVA or UVB penetrates through window glass or the glass used in fish tanks / reptile tanks , and this is compounded by the fact that only 50% of the remaining UVA & UVB is allowed through flyscreens.
So the dragon has been getting zero UVA and zero UVB.
https://imgur.com/4Z9SaTv
(Here u can see how big he is compared to my hand, if the image works)
https://imgur.com/9KTRvem
MorganaTheSatyr":ddnr5frs said:Aw he's so precious! <3
I did a quick google search - eye problems are usually an indication of inefficient lighting - so knowing you don't have uvb installed yet could be the issue. Leaving your dragon;s tank partly out isn't going to do much as of yet. I understand that it might be a hassle to leave what ur doing and hunt for a tube but it would be for the best. (more so since its such a young baby!)
As what has been recommended on this site - go for a Reptisun 10.0 uvb tube that should be fixed along the entire length of the tank:
https://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/newbies-guide-lighting-help/
(BUT, if you don't manage to find, anything is better than nothing - I got my dragon at 4 months old and started out with a coiled uvb noticed the errors and fixed it, but at least there is a UVB intake)
Regarding that gunk around the eyes, I'm not too keen on advice as I havent had any hatchlings and so I'm limited on that information, I hope one of the senior posters can have a look and see.
kingofnobbys":1bnf9e52 said:I suggest you very gently while it's still inside it's tank, pick it up … if it's not used to being handled it'll immediately respond by leaping off you hands and trying to get away ==> prove it's not too sick to move.
If this fails to get a response , flip it over onto it's back , dragons do not like being on their back as they have trouble breathing , it should try to right it's pretty much immediately.
If the above two tests fail to get a response it's either
>> too cold --- check the following temperatures using a digital thermometer
(cool zone air temperature , warm zone air temperature, basking spot temperature)
or
>> too hot and it's suffering extreme thermal stress and lost it's locomotor abilities (VERY BAD !)
see viewtopic.php?f=5&t=233516
Good temperatures for a hatchling bearded dragon are
basking spot air temperature NOT HOTTER THAN 40 degC
warm zone air temperature 35 degC
cool zone air temperatures 30 degC.
or
>> very sick (VERY BAD ---> need the help of reptile vet
or
>> dead.
Such a young dragon should be alert , actively thermoregulating , and feeding on suitable sized LIVE insects 3 times per day.
Alle":h38td47g said:I have a heating lamp, at the right distance, it has light 12/14 hours a day but I haven't managed to get a UVB bulb just yet (I will only get it tomorrow), but I kept him in the sun (half of the tank exposed) for a few hours daily to get as much UV as possible until tomorrow.
I did think it might be cause it is too young but I googled images of beardies at about three weeks and their eyes are open (if google images is a reliable source)
https://imgur.com/4Z9SaTv
>>> your photo of his eye reposted as it doesn't come up using imgur
if both eyes are like this , this is a very sick hatchling and it's suffering some form of advanced conjunctivitis and it's essentially blind with it's eyes in this very bad state of infection.
You should not have been allowed to buy the hatchling in this condition.
It IS NOT shedding related.
Conjunctivitis can be viral, bacterial, or fungal or a combination of these and is HIGHLY CONTAGEOUS and easily spread to other reptiles.
I WOULD STRONGLY ADVISE AGAINST home remedies at this stage , some will suggest using raw honey on the eyes ( diluted in an equal volume of water) , I think the eye infection is very advanced and past honey being effective , in fact honey mixed with water may make the infection worse if this is fungal.
I STRONGLY ADVISE your find a local reptile certified vet and have them take a swab and work out what kind of conjunctivitis you are dealing with , and from this the vet can prescribe the most effective med (eye ointment / drops ) to use to defeat this infection.
(Here u can see how big he is compared to my hand, if the image works)
https://imgur.com/9KTRvem
Alle":zqqlpdav said:kingofnobbys":zqqlpdav said:I suggest you very gently while it's still inside it's tank, pick it up … if it's not used to being handled it'll immediately respond by leaping off you hands and trying to get away ==> prove it's not too sick to move.
If this fails to get a response , flip it over onto it's back , dragons do not like being on their back as they have trouble breathing , it should try to right it's pretty much immediately.
If the above two tests fail to get a response it's either
>> too cold --- check the following temperatures using a digital thermometer
(cool zone air temperature , warm zone air temperature, basking spot temperature)
or
>> too hot and it's suffering extreme thermal stress and lost it's locomotor abilities (VERY BAD !)
see viewtopic.php?f=5&t=233516
Good temperatures for a hatchling bearded dragon are
basking spot air temperature NOT HOTTER THAN 40 degC
warm zone air temperature 35 degC
cool zone air temperatures 30 degC.
or
>> very sick (VERY BAD ---> need the help of reptile vet
or
>> dead.
Such a young dragon should be alert , actively thermoregulating , and feeding on suitable sized LIVE insects 3 times per day.
I handled it quite a bit, he is responsive, moves in my hand, gets on it, etc but the only movement inside the tank he does is when moving from his basking spot to the cooler sides. He did not eat any vegetables or crickets (only the first day I got it, ate a cricket) and doesn't seem intetested or responsive when I try offer him his food. Could it be just the stress of moving? He was kept with other beardies before I got him.
<<< I posted that response before working out how to see your images.
What you've reported is a good sign - it's well enough to thermoregulate and be responsive when handled
The relocation stress will be contributing , but not the cause of the infected eyes. This hatchling was sold to you while sick.
It's not feeding by itself because it CAN NOT SEE it's feeder insects with it's eye's in this condition.
.
I also noticed a bit of progress regarding his activity.
Edit: I kept him on the balcony, with no lid. He got direct sunlight (at 12 am, so the sunlight didnt come from the sides for a bit). But I will get the UVB bulb asap
Alle":gxawem33 said:Hello
Sorry for the late reply
So I've managed to feed him some powdered and gutloaded crickets (not enough) and give him some water. It is impossibly hard, as he is barely 4 inches and I'm scared I might hurt him while trying to force open his mouth. I used the honey trick and it worked for a few crickets and I did the same trick but with water. Unfortunately I can't afford any liquid food and there is no one that sells it in my country (Romania). I'll keep trying to hand feed him.
>> it's good that you managed get some food into the little sick hatchling.
Some is better than none at all.
Regarding the liquid foods , try EBAY and don't restrict yourself to Romania, you are in or right next door to the EU and there will be heaps of places on Ebay who sell these critical care foods online .
https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=oxbow+critical+care+carnivore+&_sacat=0&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=2
I haven't found a specialized vet anywhere closer than 200 km, but a vet recommended eye drops which might or might not work (trying to have hope), as they are only for bacterial conjunctivities and the vet couldn't determine via images what type it is.
Also a few minutes ago I tried to feed him again (I failed) and while trying to open his mouth (gently, with my finger), this happened:
A piece of his cheek skin came off. Could it be shedding? Or did I hurt it? He is also bulging his eyes a lot (the first time scared me to death).
<<< if the eyeballs are bulging off and one TEMPORARILY ==> a shed is coming .
<<< if they are bulging permanently ==> health problems.
Thank you for all the support and instructions! It means a lot for this newbie
I'll keep doing my best and hope the little guy will be okay.
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