Baby beardie wont let me help him

SO and I got a baby beardie about a week ago from a work friend. We have many a reptile so we thought "great!". We gave him a 10 gallon with paper towels as substrate, basking rocks, hide and a heat lamp and a 10.0 uvb. The rock formation is set up so he can go multiple levels to bask to regulate, and the lights are both pointed at his rocks for a full sun effect. (per arcadia latest info)

Big issue though. When we got him he was dehydrated and obviously under weight. He is 5 grams total weight. The first night he ate 1 tiny meal worm and a few tiny veggies, next night the same. third day he wouldnt eat at all. We gave him an (zoo med) electrolyte bath 3 days ago, and turned his lamps on at 11am for a change. Hes constantly basking, so we figured he wasnt getting enough sun time. He didnt eat that night either. He did seem more alert after these two things the next morning. He was regulating well and seemed much more alert. That night though still wouldnt eat. So last night another electrolyte bath, and he pooped a pretty big poop and peed a few times. We then tried to syringe feed repti boost in a small syringe and the little bugger REFUSED to unclamp his mouth or have his mouth pulled or pushed open in any way. Best we could do was get some on his gums. Tried every trick Id researched, nada. So in defeat we left him some finely chopped carrots, squash, bllueberries, and 4 meal worms in his bowl and covered him up. Were pretty sure he ate some squash and come carrot, and again 1 meal worm. Pooped a tiny poop. He wont eat crickets at all so we didnt offer. He seems very alert but yet just basks constantly. Im worried sick and im out of ideas and research. I think with the spritzing, the baths and such hes at least peeing good now I guess. Hes just so tiny and boney, you can see his hip bones.
 

xp29

BD.org Addict
Photo Comp Winner
Beardie name(s)
Zen , Ruby ,Snicker Doodles, Sweet Pea, Sinatra
Are you using a coil/compact uvb if so get rid of it asap and get a long tube bulb and fixture. Try adding just a little bit of none citrus fruit punch to give the water flavor. That has worked for me in a past. Also its been my experience that beardies don't like to eat as well in the evening, they need time to bask aftet sp they can digest their food. Maybe try feeding him just after he has warmed up in yhe morning.
 

Groggyfroggie

Juvie Member
Photo Comp Winner
Beardie name(s)
Draco
Hi, beardies need a stable day-night cycle with ~12hrs lights on. Can you specify when the lights are on and off? It's also best to feed him during the day. He is probably still adjusting to new environment so maybe avoid handling him except bathing and feeding.

Also regarding the diet, mealworms can be difficult for baby beardies to digest especially if he's not getting enough basking time. Imo it's best to feed him soft leafy greens like collard greens mustard greens for now instead of carrots and squash. Hope he does well and keep us updated!
 

KarrieRee

BD.org Sicko
Beardie name(s)
Hiccup he is 6 and Blaze is 4
Ok first please get accurate basking temps w/ a digital probe thermometer--- no stick ons - next please move him into a bigger tank even a 20 gallon tote is better than a 10 gallon - that is too small of a tank especially getting proper temps here is a set up you can use for now
1660958014698.jpg

Next get rid of the coil UVB you want this for this type of set up as soon as possible your dragon is not going to survive if you go too long he is not big enough to live w/ out eating --
24" Zoo Med fixture w/ the bulb that comes w/ it for now its a 5.0 bulb
You need digital probe thermometers 2 Zoo Med Digital Thermometer you can find these at Petco or Petsmart -- please keep him hydrated w/ dropping water on his nose see if he will lick - please get some food into him by either off a spoon some baby food chicken and squash will work - please try and get some dubia roaches and NO meal worms please they will plug him up w/ the exoskeleton on them - get really small dubias if you can - we need him eating to keep his strength up -- you can order the roaches off of this website
www.dubiaroaches.com please post a pic of him so I can help w/ the size
 

SpaceCatsAZ

Member
Original Poster
Ok first please get accurate basking temps w/ a digital probe thermometer--- no stick ons - next please move him into a bigger tank even a 20 gallon tote is better than a 10 gallon - that is too small of a tank especially getting proper temps here is a set up you can use for now
View attachment 73093
Next get rid of the coil UVB you want this for this type of set up as soon as possible your dragon is not going to survive if you go too long he is not big enough to live w/ out eating --
24" Zoo Med fixture w/ the bulb that comes w/ it for now its a 5.0 bulb
You need digital probe thermometers 2 Zoo Med Digital Thermometer you can find these at Petco or Petsmart -- please keep him hydrated w/ dropping water on his nose see if he will lick - please get some food into him by either off a spoon some baby food chicken and squash will work - please try and get some dubia roaches and NO meal worms please they will plug him up w/ the exoskeleton on them - get really small dubias if you can - we need him eating to keep his strength up -- you can order the roaches off of this website
www.dubiaroaches.com please post a pic of him so I can help w/ the size
Put him in a 20 gallon today!
Will do asap!
Have a digital probe I use with the "kids" already.
Already using a digital hygrometer/temp gauge already.
Basking temps are from 80 near the slope start to 110 at the top piece of slate.
I spritz him twice daily, and dropper in between. He licks both.
As stated he refuses force feeding but maybe he would in the morning, I'll try.
I have a dubia farm so no problem to use nymphs.
 

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SpaceCatsAZ

Member
Original Poster
Hi, beardies need a stable day-night cycle with ~12hrs lights on. Can you specify when the lights are on and off? It's also best to feed him during the day. He is probably still adjusting to new environment so maybe avoid handling him except bathing and feeding.

Also regarding the diet, mealworms can be difficult for baby beardies to digest especially if he's not getting enough basking time. Imo it's best to feed him soft leafy greens like collard greens mustard greens for now instead of carrots and squash. Hope he does well and keep us updated!
Due to our schedule and the other reptiles hes on a 11am to 11pm schedule. He then gets covered with a blackout cloth. Yeah im afraid to handle him other than that. I"ll pick up some collard greens today!
 

hdochow

Sub-Adult Member
Photo Comp Winner
Beardie name(s)
Sir Henry of Scales
it sounds like you've got a head start on most new beardie parents because of your previous experience with reptiles and their equipment. i think if you get him in a bigger enclosure with a straight tube uvb and ditch the coil you are well on your way. a lot of the little guys i have seen with troubles on here start improving with the change in uvb since it and temps are the basis of their care and it also controls their eating. our little guy (well not so little anymore!) was a rescue almost as small as yours is now and those changes are what saved him.
 

hdochow

Sub-Adult Member
Photo Comp Winner
Beardie name(s)
Sir Henry of Scales
and here's a website for veg options. ignore what it says about kale. more studies have been done since the list was made and they found it is is a great staple food. Nutrition Content
 

Drache613

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Hello,

That lighting schedule should be ok, as long as he gets adequate length of day/night cycle.
Go slowly with him but you should be able to start handling him more often. He is definitely
a tiny one but will grow quickly! It may take him a few weeks to get used to a new home but
be patient & continue to work with him. They usually socialize nicely.
The UVB lighting is crucial for their overall health & well being. He is in a 20 gallon tank now?
That will be a lot better for him now & easier to maintain the temperatures, too.
Try either the Reptisun 10 or Arcadia D3 12% tube are good to use for the 20 gallon tank.
There are the T8 or T5 options, depending on how you are going to mount your tube bulb.

Let us know how he is doing!
Tracie
 

KarrieRee

BD.org Sicko
Beardie name(s)
Hiccup he is 6 and Blaze is 4
Put him in a 20 gallon today!
Will do asap!
Have a digital probe I use with the "kids" already.
Already using a digital hygrometer/temp gauge already.
Basking temps are from 80 near the slope start to 110 at the top piece of slate.
I spritz him twice daily, and dropper in between. He licks both.
As stated he refuses force feeding but maybe he would in the morning, I'll try.
I have a dubia farm so no problem to use nymphs.
It sounds good what about the UVB?
 

SpaceCatsAZ

Member
Original Poster
Hello,

That lighting schedule should be ok, as long as he gets adequate length of day/night cycle.
Go slowly with him but you should be able to start handling him more often. He is definitely
a tiny one but will grow quickly! It may take him a few weeks to get used to a new home but
be patient & continue to work with him. They usually socialize nicely.
The UVB lighting is crucial for their overall health & well being. He is in a 20 gallon tank now?
That will be a lot better for him now & easier to maintain the temperatures, too.
Try either the Reptisun 10 or Arcadia D3 12% tube are good to use for the 20 gallon tank.
There are the T8 or T5 options, depending on how you are going to mount your tube bulb.

Let us know how he is doing!
Tracie
He didnt eat again. Made greens, and dubia bowl as suggested with a bit of squash. Nothing. Very worried at this point.
 

KarrieRee

BD.org Sicko
Beardie name(s)
Hiccup he is 6 and Blaze is 4
It will be here Tuesday. Its very rural here, had to amazon it.
Please get him out in the sun for 15 minutes / day in a plastic tote / container no lid direct sunlight - watch him do not leave him you need to watch the heat dont know how hot it is there but it will be great UVB for him till the one you ordered comes- what did you order please? Are you keeping him hydrated? Drop water on his nose see if he licks - watch his poops you want them dark firm and moist - urate formed white and moist - you can try feeding some slurry of greens off of a spoon see if you can get him to eat that way - his eating is going to be off but we want him eating a little bit -- nothing is not so good --
 

Drache613

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Hello,

Definitely try to get him outdoors in the sunshine, if you can. Just be attentive & be sure he doesn't
get too hot.
Keep trying, hopefully he will come around pretty soon. A lot of it probably has to do with UVB lighting.
Are you dropping the slurry onto his nose to see if he will lick any of the food that way?

Tracie
 

SpaceCatsAZ

Member
Original Poster
UPDATE:

First just so everyone is caught up on the changes, latest setup (pictured) is a 20 gallon with a reptisun10.0 UVB and a desert basking bulb with a CHE as night time heat (illness) al controlled by a digital timer and thermostat. Temps are 105 at top of basking spot and gradient towards the cold side. Night time temps are a constant 80 as instructed by a vet technician.

A few days ago I was trying to feed him and I heard a series of "pops" coming from his open mouth. Prior experience tells me 100% its a respitory infection. That explains a lot. So I made a vet appointment but its for next week at the soonest. In the meantime the vet told me to run night heat at around 80 and 105-110 in the basking spot, as the infection is not causing discharge out the nose yet so she believes he can at least try to fight it off to a point with extra heat time. Says she will probably prescribe mox.

He's just not eating enough without being forced. Even after hours of basking an electrolyte soak he has minimal energy reserves when brought out to feed or soak. He gets exhausted in about 15 minutes only to pass out sorta and slowly recharges in the tank afterward.

He poops pretty big every few days, but its from the reptiboost/pollen slurry with a drop of banana extract (only way he'll eat it at all) I'm syringe feeding him daily (.5cc) He will eat a single meal worm every 3-4 days or a single wax worm every few days if left in his bowl overnight. Absolutey refuses dubias, red runners, BSFL and crickets. (although he will sometimes make a half-hearted lunge at one that gets too close) and refuses any and all greens. Hes drinking when spritzed or sometimes in the bath. The only way I can get food in him is too wait till hes a bit hot and sneak food on his lips or in his mouth when he regulates. Otherwise, clamp mouth city as always. I know he feelss bad because welll the obvious, but hes always half black bearded unless he's "fullly charged" for the day.

I just hope the URI is the main culprit and not some kind of other problem. He is doing overall marginally better but I still get nervous every morning when I go to uncover him. Its taking a huge toll on my stress levels but hes worth it. In the brief times he feels a bit ok hes got one helll of a personallity, that I'm in love with. Any more questions, please ask.
 

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