Baby beardie will NOT let me near him

[ironmabel]

I've recently bought a new beardie about a week ago and whenever I put my hand near him to pick him for a bath or just to handle him he opens his mouth wide because he's angry and jumps at me trying to bite me (or maybe just pretending hes going to bite me).

Is this because he isn't used to his new home? Should I hold off on handling him until hes less stressed out or would that reinforce the behavior? It would be really helpful for some advice lol.

 

[Claudiusx]

Hi there,

Very common for a young dragon to be fiesty like that! Sometimes the relocation stress eggs them on, and sometimes they are just feisty by nature. All dragons are different.

I'd maybe give him another week to get used to you and his environment before trying again. Just because he seems so frightened by you for now. After that, it is just going to take some time to build up the trust. But it's worth the effort

-Brandon

 

[ironmabel]

Hi there,

Very common for a young dragon to be fiesty like that! Sometimes the relocation stress eggs them on, and sometimes they are just feisty by nature. All dragons are different.

I'd maybe give him another week to get used to you and his environment before trying again. Just because he seems so frightened by you for now. After that, it is just going to take some time to build up the trust. But it's worth the effort

-Brandon

If I put a water dish in his tank will he go to it when he's dehydrated or do I still need to take him out for baths? And do you have any advice for handling him once he's had time to settle?

 

[KarrieRee]

You can try a water dish sometimes they will drink some times not--- bathing is going to be too stressful at this time -- feed him salads greens and wash or rinse them before serving - feed before insects w/ small super worms or what works really good to BSFL add them to the top of his salad doing this in front of him so he sees you do this -- the movement will lure him to the bowl -- you can also spray or drop water on his nose and see if he will lick it --- if he does keep doing that till he quits - watch his poop it will be moist formed and dark and urate will be moist formed and white any excess water that is good -- means hes hydrated -- also make sure his insects are gutloaded and hydrated as well he will get some moisture from them but he still needs it from the greens as well -- here is a website for nutrition http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html kale is a good staple feeder ignore what the website says --- if you need websites for the insects / worms let me know I will post them for you--- as far as handling approach from the side not over head they have a 3rd eye so to speak for predators -- go slow -- try hand feeding the next week so he gets used to your hand - get a soft piece of cloth or clothing fleece blanket w/ your smell on it put it in his hide so he will get used to your smell -- set a routine for him as far as feeding time - he will know what to expect be consistent - get your hands in his tank as much as possible he will get used to you being in his tank -- patience is key --- mine did bite and hissed and ran all of it took me months to get him calmed down he was around 3 months when I got him and it took me till he was 8 months or so to where he is now - we can hold him pick him up and hes not running or hissing or doing anything he was doing now --- but I worked w/ him every day --

Karrie

 

[ironmabel]

He doesn't appear to be dehydrated at the moment, I have been checking. I think worse case scenario I'll spray his veggies or his veggie bowl. He's perfectly fine with eating and goes straight to his bowl as soon as he doesn't see me in the room.

 

[kingofnobbys]

i'd not bother with baths for the hatchling.
Bearded dragons are evolved for very dry country, and don't need access to standing water like a skink or a gecko would.

Plenty of fresh greens and chopped veg and live insects and he'll get all the hydration he needs.

I rarely bathe my dragons, then only if they've soiled themselves, are in shed and having a problem with some stubborn shed , or too hot (to cool down).

Are there trees in the garden ?
Take a skinny twig ( one that's maybe been shed by the tree and is now leaf free ), needs to be about 2 to 3 ft long.
Now when the hatchling retreats to the back of the tank , slowly reach in with the skinny end of the twig and try to gently get its end under the chest , arms of the hatchling , they tend to grasp twigs well if not scared by the twig.
Slow raise the twig with the hatchling holding onto the end and draw it closer to you , even to your other free hand or chest, and then place the hand over the hatchling to form a hand cup.

Harder if the tank requires you to reach in from above, all the dragon will see is looming very scary figure and 5 headed snakes ( arms and hands ) chasing it.

Try to have a disabled bug or other desireable food treat handy when you get the hatchling out , make a routine and ritual of this , and try to get it to associate you with a pleasureable experience ( food ).

 

[ironmabel]

Thank you so much for the advice! I have noticed if he was anywhere near my finger he grabs onto them and wont let go lol.

I think specifically he's afraid of my hands, because if I move my hands at all near his tank he gets scared, so this could be useful.

I did try to give him food whilst I was handling him, but he wouldnt eat it. I'll try giving him a worm in like a weeks time after he's calmed down, easier to handle.

 

[KarrieRee]

You can try thongs --- work w/ both your hands and thongs
Karrie