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Arcadia Heat Projector VS CHE

Was wondering, for experienced owners, do you have any pros and cons of the 2? I’m using a CHE but am highly considering switching to the Arcadia Heat Projector. I just wanted to know some thoughts on them and then also inquire about the best digital controlled thermometer. If I switch to this I want a probe for basking and hot side. It must be perfect for my boy!! @CooperDragon I was referred to you but am new to this and couldn’t find you haha!
 

CooperDragon

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
I really like the heat projectors. They don't get nearly as hot to the touch as the CHE (so less burn risk) but they produce a very nice amount of heat below the bulb. I use one in my main enclosure for winter nights. It's hooked to an on/off (pulse) thermostat to keep the surface temps between 70-73. I also have one for my roach bin to keep the temps up since it's in the basement. If you set it on an adjustable stand you can change the height to control the temps, and just turn it on/off manually. If you want to automate that, you don't need anything elaborate - just a simple on/off thermostat will do the trick.
 

FuegoMyFireBaby

Member
Original Poster
CooperDragon":9j09rfqt said:
I really like the heat projectors. They don't get nearly as hot to the touch as the CHE (so less burn risk) but they produce a very nice amount of heat below the bulb. I use one in my main enclosure for winter nights. It's hooked to an on/off (pulse) thermostat to keep the surface temps between 70-73. I also have one for my roach bin to keep the temps up since it's in the basement. If you set it on an adjustable stand you can change the height to control the temps, and just turn it on/off manually. If you want to automate that, you don't need anything elaborate - just a simple on/off thermostat will do the trick.

Okay! I bought it because I just couldn’t see where the CHE was doing anything close to what the DHP could. I got it because I cannot for the life of me get my boys temperature right. Right now everything is on the mesh of my Zen. Arcadia Pro T5 HO 14% Dragon UVB 24” w/reflector, 150 watt Flukers Basking bulb on a dimmer , the DHP had a cage that Arcadia recommended with it as well as a bracket but they actually sent a ceiling mount bracket instead….anyway, not the point, lol. The 80watt DHP is in the cage, on mesh next to my basking , also on a dimmer AND I’m still having to use the CHE (dimmer) to get my temp on warm side to 93.7F w/21% humidity (best so far). My middle is running 87F w/ 34% humidity and my cool side is barely 79F w/ 39-41% humidity. I found out a little too late that this habitat is known for this, and I don’t want to seem unappreciative, as my Bf thought he was surprising me with the best, so any advice on where to move what? Adjustments? Something safe to help hold heat in? I just keep forking out money and I’m lucky if I gain 1 degree. Since using the DHP his coloring , behavior, appetite and poops have done a 180 from what they were ! I’m about to sell this thing and try to build my own or cut mesh out and build a custom fitting top with proper bulb mounts so that they can all be inside. Please help!
 

CooperDragon

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
The cage is usually just to keep it from causing burns. If the heat projector is out of reach, that should be OK without it. I keep mine in a big dome fixture hanging from an adjustable stand so it stays well out of reach.

As far as the temps go, are you reading surface temps or ambient temps? The surface temps tend to be a bit higher and that's what you want to reference for making adjustments to the lights. If you're not easily reaching 100 on the basking surface, it's probably worth trying out a few different basking bulbs. I tend to prefer using halogen or incandescent flood lights (PAR38/BR40) from a hardware store since I've had good results and they tend to be a bit cheaper. Each setup is a bit different, so it does take some trial and error to get things just right.
 

FuegoMyFireBaby

Member
Original Poster
CooperDragon":25yowpd9 said:
The cage is usually just to keep it from causing burns. If the heat projector is out of reach, that should be OK without it. I keep mine in a big dome fixture hanging from an adjustable stand so it stays well out of reach.

As far as the temps go, are you reading surface temps or ambient temps? The surface temps tend to be a bit higher and that's what you want to reference for making adjustments to the lights. If you're not easily reaching 100 on the basking surface, it's probably worth trying out a few different basking bulbs. I tend to prefer using halogen or incandescent flood lights (PAR38/BR40) from a hardware store since I've had good results and they tend to be a bit cheaper. Each setup is a bit different, so it does take some trial and error to get things just right.

Yeah, I have only used the one type of basking bulb which is a Flukers 150watt basking on a dimmer. So I might try that. The temps I gave you are ambient temps (I use 4 Govees) but I also have an infrared temp gun to check his surface temps daily, as well as his basking spot. Waiting on my Herpistat 2 to come in as well. Thank you!
 
We really like our Herpstat 2 very convenient saved our asses a bunch
Sorry for bumping a semi old thread but I’m thinking of going to a herpstat as well, how does the lighting feature work? Will it ramp UVBs? I currently use smart plugs for the schedule but if I could get everything on a herpstat that would be excellent.

Also are you all using the DHP in place of a CHE or have you ran the DHP and a Basking bulb, to get the IR A & b benefits?
 

CooperDragon

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
The Herpstat won't ramp the UVB, but does a decent job with the basking light. I currently have one outlet connected to the basking light set to dimmer mode and the other is set to a DHP that is in pulse mode and kicks on at 68 and off at 73. That typically only turns on during winter nights when the house cools off. I have the UVB tube connected to a mechanical timer that turns on about an hour after the basking light and off about an hour before the basking light. Ramping intensity of UVB would be a great feature, but I'm not sure how to do something like that yet with a single bulb so I just stagger the start/end times to provide UVB during the middle of the day.
 
The Herpstat won't ramp the UVB, but does a decent job with the basking light. I currently have one outlet connected to the basking light set to dimmer mode and the other is set to a DHP that is in pulse mode and kicks on at 68 and off at 73. That typically only turns on during winter nights when the house cools off. I have the UVB tube connected to a mechanical timer that turns on about an hour after the basking light and off about an hour before the basking light. Ramping intensity of UVB would be a great feature, but I'm not sure how to do something like that yet with a single bulb so I just stagger the start/end times to provide UVB during the middle of the day.
Thanks that answered a lot of my questions. I currently have a herpstat 1 and just got it so I haven’t set it up yet but that’s what got me thinking of the ramping of the UVB, if it worked that way I was going to send this back and get the herpstat 4 or 6.

So I think I’ll keep the herpstat1 for the Arcadia deep heat projector, kee running my basking light on the dimmer. My basement is kind of chilly this time of year but I run a CHE full time on an on/off thermostat set at 77, it usually only runs at night but it keeps the cool side at around 72-73 at the ground. He never has a specific spot that he sleeps in so I wanted to keep a “night time” gradient through the cage.

Sorry for the rambling.
 
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