Our 4.5 month old bearded dragon isn't doing well. He doesnt eat crickets (lately). Small ones seem like too much work for him and bigger ones seem to scare him... He eats minimal greens (bite or two) and a couple small meal worms a day. He was eating 2 or 3 times this amount until the last couple weeks. He is looking skinny and darker than before.
We have him in a 40 gallon breeder tank. He get UVB lighting and a heat light during the day and a night heat light at night.
Any advice? Are there other food options that might spark his appetite?
I think you should try giving him chopped up fresh cilantro and parsley. My dragons went wild for it. Also, I do not recommend meal worms. My grandpa had a collard lizard and a meal worm ate out of its stomach. I feed my 4 month old (and every thing else) superworms. They are cheap and easy to keep. They also can't escape from the glass bowl you put them in.
Please tell us what type uvb light you are using. There are uvb lights that cause health problems with dragons, which is why we ask. Also, please tell us the basking temps (actual basking spot) and cool side temps of the viv. Basking temps are important for digesting the food, which is why we ask this question.
Also, I do not recommend meal worms. My grandpa had a collard lizard and a meal worm ate out of its stomach. I feed my 4 month old (and every thing else) superworms. They are cheap and easy to keep. They also can't escape from the glass bowl you put them in.
We don't recommend meal worms as a staple because they are more chitin shell than meat so not very nutritious. As for chewing out your beardies stomache, I can't attest to that. All I know is my dragons chew them up before eating so can't imagine it happening. Superworms shouldn't be fed to a dragon under 15-16" long. They pose an impaction risk. I have been there and can attest to it happening.
Young dragons need their basking temps between 105-110. They also need a cooler side.
The uvb light you have is not a recommended bulb. It may be some of the cause. There are only a few recommended bulbs that do not cause health issues. The Reptisun 10 linear bulb, and the mercury vapor bulbs (megary, T-rex active uv, Powersun)
Also, it is not recommended to keep a light on at night. If your house, or dragon house, gets below 65 degrees, then something for heat would be needed. (Such as a ceramic heat emitter) but something that does not produce heat.
I know beardies crunch there food up but it still scares me because it happened to a collard lizard that was a little smaller than a beardie. I don't want to risk it. But yes, meal worm are harder to digest as well.
Indeed, as LJean mentioned, this could surely be the cause of lack of appetite. The ESU 7% is one of the (sad to say) many bulbs that emit low and inconsistent levels of UVB. It does not properly stimulate beardies appetite, and growth. In addition, this bulb is also among the ones that have been known to cause eye issues in beardies.
Can't say enough how important quality UVB is to your beardies appetite, growth and overall health. We started out with a low quality bulb, and our "micro beardie" is now on the mend and eating as she should be under her MVB, but there is no telling how that original bulb (a Zilla compact) will effect her long term growth/size.
And to second LJean again, beardies need darkness at night, a CHE is your best bet if temps dip below 65. If they don't go lower than 65, no nighttime supplemental heat is needed.