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The sad part is, I wasn't even being hostile. I was being as polite as possible (not an easy feat for me, lol). Maybe the person was just on edge already, because I'm sure most the other people who emailed were a lot more "hostile"... Heh. MBD wouldn't be far-fetched. There's no way for that...

Rusel, great minds think alike. Myself and others did just that the day I posted this here. Unfortunately, it was to no avail--the owner still refuses to surrender the dragon to a local rescue (God forbid they miss out on $50), and tried to excuse the paralysis as completely non issue. Here's...

This Craigslist ad came to my attention today when it was cross-posted on a local FB reptile group. My heart is breaking for this poor baby!!! Is there anyone who can rescue him, or get him to someone who can? Link, text, and one of the attached photos below...

Variety is infinitely better for any animal than just one single food item its whole life... Especially for insectivores. I realize many leopard gecko keepers use exclusively mealworms, but I have a hard time believing that's as healthy as it's made out to be, much less an ideal diet. If it...

LOL. Yeah, measuring a snake isn't terribly easy! I've managed to get a rough measurement of a couple of my little boas, but they're MUCH less hyper than king snakes. There is actually a program online that measures your snake. I've never used it, but I'm told it works great. Here's the link...

Younger snakes still in the growth stage can shed as often as once a month or every few weeks. How much they grow and how often they shed depends on a few different things--mainly how much they're fed, but also just varies from snake to snake... Some grow slowly and some grow much faster...

Dracaenas, snake plant (Sansevieria), pothos vine, and spider plant are all completely safe for snake vivs. The pothos and spider plant are especially hardy. There are other options, as well, but these are probably the easiest to find. Since hognose do burrow quite a lot, I'd be worried about...

If he fouls his water, definitely take him out and clean it--don't wait for him to finish his "bath." Since he's pretty well settled in by now, it probably doesn't cause him much stress to shoo him from his dish, and it's just plain a better idea than risking any sort of bacterial infection. :)...

That's good that you have them on a regimen. If you do your own fecals, did you check for other parasites beyond the normal pinworms, etc? Did you check for parasites that wouldn't be taken out by your normal dewormer? More sinister parasites, like coccidia? Like I said, just want to be sure you...

That's great! :) I'm glad he's eating so well for you. And definitely sounds like he's ready for the next size up!

I wouldn't personally know the quality of the books listed, but I found the second source (online article): http://www.reptilechannel.com/snakes/snake-care/snake-winter-anorexia.aspx "Ball pythons do not hibernate, but some breeders do put them through a “brumination” or cooling down period...

More dirt/less sand than you have used should still hold up burrows... Though I haven't ventured into the territory of dirt/sand mixtures myself, I frequent tortoise forums where many keepers utilize a mixture of dirt and sand using no more than 50% sand by weight, not volume. With these...

Hmmm. Interesting. I've never heard tell that ball pythons brumate--all that I've heard has been closer to the last source you quoted. Temperatures cool slightly and ball pythons will go off feed as breeding season begins, but they don't brumate because their native range doesn't get cold enough...

This is exactly it. If you research their native range, you'll find the ground is generally hard packed dirt, not loose sand. There are other factors as well, I'm sure, that effect probability of impaction, but a bearded dragon in the wild isn't running around on several inches of sand like many...

Ashley-- Ball pythons don't brumate.. ;) IIRC, some breeders will drop the temperatures by a couple degrees at the start of winter to help induce breeding activity (though I may be mixing up boa constrictors and BPs here--been awhile since I read anything about breeding practices for either)...

Wow, I wonder what site you ended up on? Hatchling Womas tend to go for around $200-250 these days, at least from what I've seen. Their close relative, the Black-headed Python, is the one that goes for $1000 or more. (And goodness are they impressive, stunning snakes--A BHP is at the top of my...

No kidding! It would be completely infeasible to have more than just a couple small snakes if it weren't for the availability of bulk. I'm currently sitting at 27 snakes ranging from tiny new corn snake hatchlings to an adult Woma python. Pet store rodent prices are NOT an option, lol!

I don't know of any Canadian breeders, but you may be able to find someone (or at least get help finding one) over at Tortoise Forum. It's a great community, and I'm sure the members would be happy to help you! Link: http://tortoiseforum.org

Lol, how 'bout that! Glad to hear you already decided to make the switch. It looks great! :)

I used Layne Labs for my last order, and was very happy with the quality of the mice. They will do smaller quantities, too, which is nice for people who only have a couple snakes to feed, or growing snakes who will need to move up in size before long, like your ball python. Here's their website...