Help with rescue

[ELCorrigan]

https://imgur.com/a/YkAq9bx

Hi. My family had decided to get a bearded dragon for my daughter next month but a family member called to say that a local pet shop had been shut down and there was a few that needed rescuing. When I went there was a couple adults that were clearly needing advanced care, there was a baby that was alert though he looked pretty bad. I took the baby but he has been fed only a couple crickets day, had no UVB light, and within a dirty cage like the water bowl was green with algae.

We called around and found a vet that sees reptiles but they won't be back from holiday for a few days. All I know to do is to give them daily soaks, warm them up, and offer more food. Is there any other advice? He is lethargic and not eating well. He ate two only 2 small mealworms. So far he has not been willing to touch salad, or dubia roaches, or crickets. Also, he is shedding.

Let me know if anybody has any immediate advice.

 

[hdochow]

the absolute most critical thing for him right now is going to be uvb and heat. getting that sorted out will help with any other problems he may have going on. if you your uvb light is not a straight tube, you'll need a new one. what lights do you have?

not eating much right now is normal, between the relocation stress and shedding.

 

[KarrieRee]

https://imgur.com/a/YkAq9bx

Hi. My family had decided to get a bearded dragon for my daughter next month but a family member called to say that a local pet shop had been shut down and there was a few that needed rescuing. When I went there was a couple adults that were clearly needing advanced care, there was a baby that was alert though he looked pretty bad. I took the baby but he has been fed only a couple crickets day, had no UVB light, and within a dirty cage like the water bowl was green with algae.

We called around and found a vet that sees reptiles but they won't be back from holiday for a few days. All I know to do is to give them daily soaks, warm them up, and offer more food. Is there any other advice? He is lethargic and not eating well. He ate two only 2 small mealworms. So far he has not been willing to touch salad, or dubia roaches, or crickets. Also, he is shedding.

Let me know if anybody has any immediate advice.

You need these things asap--NO coils for UVB's - a long tube UVB fixture -- here are some links check your pet smart if you have one or order it on line you want the 24 Watt 12% bulb Arcadia Reptile ProT5 UV-B Kit | reptile Light Fixtures | PetSmart
another place to get this one if Pet Smart is out Arcadia ProT5 UVB Kit 24"
or this one you need to replace the bulb w/ this 22" Reptisun 10.0 T 5 Zoo Med ReptiSun 10.0 UVB T5 HO High Output Fluorescent Bulb
you want a 24" or 2 ft fixture https://hydrobuilder.com/sunblaster-nanotech-t5-ho-fixture-with-6400k-lamp.html
you need two of these Zoo Med Digital Thermometer for Terrariums
what size tank is he in? Please get a solid bright white basking bulb like Flukers -- Exo Terra Intense or a Arcadia Halogen --- but you must have the digital probe thermometers to get correct surface basking temps 105-110 --- when you get the UVB please post back on here so I can help you place the fixture - your screen on the tank is going to determine where the UVB goes --
Please NO more meal worms - they are two harsh on their stomachs -- he needs crickets or dubia roaches no bigger than the space between his eyes -- feed salads every morning - hes going to eat very little w/ incorrect lighting - surface basking temps - plus hes going thru relocation stress -- but you must get these things for him to survive --
Nutrition Content
you can get his some BSFL - also known as phoenix worms calci worms or nutri grubs - get large - feed as many as you want they are a great staple feeder - do not dust them w/ calcium- but you do need to dust the other insects -- please ask more questions

 

[ELCorrigan]

https://imgur.com/a/YkAq9bx

Hi. My family had decided to get a bearded dragon for my daughter next month but a family member called to say that a local pet shop had been shut down and there was a few that needed rescuing. When I went there was a couple adults that were clearly needing advanced care, there was a baby that was alert though he looked pretty bad. I took the baby but he has been fed only a couple crickets day, had no UVB light, and within a dirty cage like the water bowl was green with algae.

We called around and found a vet that sees reptiles but they won't be back from holiday for a few days. All I know to do is to give them daily soaks, warm them up, and offer more food. Is there any other advice? He is lethargic and not eating well. He ate two only 2 small mealworms. So far he has not been willing to touch salad, or dubia roaches, or crickets. Also, he is shedding.

Let me know if anybody has any immediate a

You need these things asap--NO coils for UVB's - a long tube UVB fixture -- here are some links check your pet smart if you have one or order it on line you want the 24 Watt 12% bulb Arcadia Reptile ProT5 UV-B Kit | reptile Light Fixtures | PetSmart
another place to get this one if Pet Smart is out Arcadia ProT5 UVB Kit 24"
or this one you need to replace the bulb w/ this 22" Reptisun 10.0 T 5 Zoo Med ReptiSun 10.0 UVB T5 HO High Output Fluorescent Bulb
you want a 24" or 2 ft fixture https://hydrobuilder.com/sunblaster-nanotech-t5-ho-fixture-with-6400k-lamp.html
you need two of these Zoo Med Digital Thermometer for Terrariums
what size tank is he in? Please get a solid bright white basking bulb like Flukers -- Exo Terra Intense or a Arcadia Halogen --- but you must have the digital probe thermometers to get correct surface basking temps 105-110 --- when you get the UVB please post back on here so I can help you place the fixture - your screen on the tank is going to determine where the UVB goes --
Please NO more meal worms - they are two harsh on their stomachs -- he needs crickets or dubia roaches no bigger than the space between his eyes -- feed salads every morning - hes going to eat very little w/ incorrect lighting - surface basking temps - plus hes going thru relocation stress -- but you must get these things for him to survive --
Nutrition Content
you can get his some BSFL - also known as phoenix worms calci worms or nutri grubs - get large - feed as many as you want they are a great staple feeder - do not dust them w/ calcium- but you do need to dust the other insects -- please ask more questions

This is his cage. I could not find a fixture/hood type light. But reading your post we have all the correct bulbs and temps and food. We had to go to three stores tonight to get him set up.

 

[ELCorrigan]

This is his cage. I could not find a fixture/hood type light. But reading your post we have all the correct bulbs and temps and food. We had to go to three stores tonight to get him set up.
View attachment 76384

We dangled him waxworms, pushed dubia roaches, and tried crickets. Still no. left them in there as well as tried in the feeding bin. No luck. I then gave up and gave him more mealworms and he ate two. He did move between the rock and stick though so at least he is moving. I will try to locate the other things tomorrow.

 

[ELCorrigan]

the absolute most critical thing for him right now is going to be uvb and heat. getting that sorted out will help with any other problems he may have going on. if you your uvb light is not a straight tube, you'll need a new one. what lights do you have?

not eating much right now is normal, between the relocation stress and shedding.

We do have him all set up I think but should I try to make him drink water or is a soak enough? I couldn't find much info for how much water they need if they are not eating well. Some videos said people force feed water or gel food but I'm worried I would accidentally kill it. How long can he not eat for?

 

[xp29]

Do not force water, you will likely drown him. Use an eyedropper and drop it on his snout and let it seep into his mouth. He should start laping it up, if he doesn't you can add in a little none citrus fruit juice to give it flavor. Be sure to use a wet paper towel or wet wash cloth to wipe away any that runs down his chin. No need to take a chance on causing bacteria or fungus to start in his scales.
You might want to get some Pedialyte to help make sure he is hydrated, babies can dehydrate pretty fast, i use the grape flavor and add in liquid calcium, kills two birds with one stone.
Go slow though, keep things at his pace.

 

[hdochow]

We do have him all set up I think but should I try to make him drink water or is a soak enough? I couldn't find much info for how much water they need if they are not eating well. Some videos said people force feed water or gel food but I'm worried I would accidentally kill it. How long can he not eat for?

baths do not hydrate them unless they actually drink from it. too many is not good for their scales. xp's got good advice up there as far as getting them hydration. most of their fluids will come from salads and bugs once he starts eating. work with karrieree on your lighting. she'll get you set up. that will help a lot with the eating too. lights/temps being off is another thing that will cause them not to eat.

 

[Drache613]

Hello,

It is stressful bringing in a rescue. There is an adjustment period for them so go slowly wth
him. Since she isn't used to good care, nutrition, etc for now, go easy on protein to be sure
his kidneys are working well. You can use a dropper to drip water onto his snout with slowly.
Most of them will start to lick water off of their nose.

Let us know how he is doing.
Tracie

 

[KarrieRee]

All helpful advice above -- but you must get the coil UVB replaced- they are NO good and will cause all kinds of health hazards- if hes not drinking or lapping the water up hes not thirsty- rinse your salads before serving he will get moisture from them a long w/ gut loaded insects- feed them carrots at night along w/ other things like grapes squash etc what you feed the dragon - just dont feed carrots to the dragon and the insects too much Vit A and you will end up w/ orange urate- the way to tell if they are dehydrated is the urate will be dried out and crackly looking - you want that and the dark poop formed and moist - but you must get the UVB replaced as soon as possible and please get some digital probe thermometers - the stick ons are only giving you ambient temps - you surface basking temps and please get a digital probe hygrometer - that needs to go on the back center wall of the tank - optimal humidity is 40-50 % nothing under 20 and over 70% -- I sent you links to all kinds of things along w/ the nutrition website - please ignore the kale info its outdated -- when you get the UVB please let me know I will help you get it placed - he needs this as soon as you can get it -- hes growing and the coil is only going to cause issues w/ his health

 

[ELCorrigan]

All helpful advice above -- but you must get the coil UVB replaced- they are NO good and will cause all kinds of health hazards- if hes not drinking or lapping the water up hes not thirsty- rinse your salads before serving he will get moisture from them a long w/ gut loaded insects- feed them carrots at night along w/ other things like grapes squash etc what you feed the dragon - just dont feed carrots to the dragon and the insects too much Vit A and you will end up w/ orange urate- the way to tell if they are dehydrated is the urate will be dried out and crackly looking - you want that and the dark poop formed and moist - but you must get the UVB replaced as soon as possible and please get some digital probe thermometers - the stick ons are only giving you ambient temps - you surface basking temps and please get a digital probe hygrometer - that needs to go on the back center wall of the tank - optimal humidity is 40-50 % nothing under 20 and over 70% -- I sent you links to all kinds of things along w/ the nutrition website - please ignore the kale info its outdated -- when you get the UVB please let me know I will help you get it placed - he needs this as soon as you can get it -- hes growing and the coil is only going to cause issues w/ his health

I am using a laser digital gun thermometer to measure temps. The bulb is not what I know as a coil for the UVB. It's this one. Is that ok for now or are these long bulbs also a coil? It's the one inside the cage too as I'm not certain it can go through the top screen.

 

[KarrieRee]

I am using a laser digital gun thermometer to measure temps. The bulb is not what I know as a coil for the UVB. It's this one. Is that ok for now or are these long bulbs also a coil? It's the one inside the cage too as I'm not certain it can go through the top screen.

That's a coil and it's not good - you want a long tube fixture like this you want the 24 watt 12% bulb
Arcadia Reptile ProT5 UV-B Kit | reptile Light Fixtures | PetSmart you may need to order it you can also find it here

Arcadia ProT5 UVB Kit 24"

or this one the bulb needs to be replaced w/ this 22" Reptisun 10.0 T 5 Zoo Med ReptiSun 10.0 UVB T5 HO High Output Fluorescent Bulb
you want this fixture 2 ft or 24" https://hydrobuilder.com/sunblaster-nanotech-t5-ho-fixture-with-6400k-lamp.html replace the bulb w/ what I posted and you want 2 digital probe thermometers Zoo Med Digital Thermometer for Terrariums they are more accurate than the IR guns - they are handy to have but can be off because of certain materials -
please get the new UVB soon as possible - its critical he has this - let me know when you get the UVB your screen will determine where it needs to be placed

 

[AHBD]

The baby looks good so far and you did a beautiful job with the enclosure. Getting the good uvb that Karrie recommended will be top priority and should help him out. As long as he doesn't have a hidden disease he should come around. Does he/she have a name ? Sorry if I missed that.

 

[xp29]

Thats why i always say coil/compact both are garage, please work with Karrieree she can help you get your lighting on point.

 

[SkittlesK]

We do have him all set up I think but should I try to make him drink water or is a soak enough? I couldn't find much info for how much water they need if they are not eating well. Some videos said people force feed water or gel food but I'm worried I would accidentally kill it. How long can he not eat for?

-UVB/UVA are most important.
Definitely work with Karrie to get the lighting on point.

The coils are known the hurt they're eyes somewhat.
I just got a Repti-sun 12" for supplemental lighting.

That light setup might work for awhile if he's eating normally...
20-50% humidity in the tank...(30%)

W/ water remember to 'gutload' bugs 12-24/hrs before you feed them.
& the beardie will be getting water from the gutload.
I hear 'Repashy' makes a good gutload.

You wanna make sure you feed the feeders. that's about 50% of the bug...
They get juicy