Just keep offering food and I would use the BSFL on top of the salads. As long as hes eating as stated your good. If he stops eating there is a issue. When hes acclimated he should be eating round 15 dubias per feeding depending on how many BSFL you feed him.
Thanks. Another person says I was irresponsible not taking him to the vet when I got him, your saying irresponsible taking him to the vet so soon.Loose substrate and mealworms are not a good idea--- too much risk for impaction on both accounts -- they lick everything and the exoskeleton on meal worms are too harsh on babies stomachs. Hes going thru relocation stress so you need to give him time to adjust to the tank and surroundings. As long as hes eating a little for now hes good as he adjusts to his tank and surroundings his appetite will come. The vet visit is too soon and will cause more stress on him. Make sure the surface basking temps are good and his UVB that is extremely important. He also needs to stay hydrated please drop water on his nose to see if he will lick dragons will not eat if they are dehydrated.
There has been too many posts on this forum w/ dragons getting impacted w/ meal worms and sand - any loose substrate - I am only saying and warning about consequences. I guess I would rather not take the risk but that is up to you. Most on here do not recommend vet visits so soon unless they are really sick. Again that is up to you. I didnt take my dragons into the vet till they were a year old. And with that I am saying fecals were brought in no enemas were given.Thanks. Another person says I was irresponsible not taking him to the vet when I got him, your saying irresponsible taking him to the vet so soon.
I picked up this book:
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The author suggests a vet visit early on to check for parasites before it is too late. It sounds like a good idea even if it adds a little stress. Of course I have no idea if the vet will even have a spot for me to come in for another 2 months.
The book also suggest that play sand is not an impaction risk, calcium based sand IS an impaction risk because calcium sand can clump i side the lizzard. This sand is Australian sand from the lizards natural habitat, I feel like he should survive a grain or two. When he licks it, he does not pick it up into his mouth. The book also says mealworms are ok for anything but a recent hatchling. He is not being given many mealworms, just a few in the veggies to create movement. I do have BSFL on the way which I will use instead once it shows up.
If you have any books or links to actual scientific research to back up the sand or mealworm concerns I would love to see it. I would not count blogs or internet articles unless by a doctor, biologist, or published author. There are just too many myths on the internet that tend to turn into being accepted as fact.
I really hope to find a few more books. I would love to find a book written by someone who did a doctorate on bearded dragons. I am anxious to do more research on this little guy.
Thank you, and I do appreciate the advice. I am just trying to sort through the overload of infor.ation, so.e of which is at times conflicting. The Bearded Dragon Manual clearly states meal worms are bad for the phosphorus reason, others state impaction risk, others say they are just too fatty. Yet a very successful breader posts a youtube video saying he has had 0 issues feeding mealworms in ten years of breeding.There has been too many posts on this forum w/ dragons getting impacted w/ meal worms and sand - any loose substrate - I am only saying and warning about consequences. I guess I would rather not take the risk but that is up to you. Most on here do not recommend vet visits so soon unless they are really sick. Again that is up to you. I didnt take my dragons into the vet till they were a year old. And with that I am saying fecals were brought in no enemas were given.
Beware of vets giving enemas to your dragon | Beardie ER
Just a warning about this because there are at times very bad reactions afterwards including beardie dying within a day to a week . Some vets give an enema when a dragon is going in to brumation and not pooing during this time, not recognizing that beardies rarely poo during their " sleepy "...www.beardeddragon.org
I have a microscope, I wonder if I could check it myself.You don't have to actually take him into the vet. Just collect a sample of his poop in a sealed container, a zip lock baggy, an asprin bottle(i would rinse throughly first) ect. They want it within 24 hours of the bowel movement. This will save your beardie the stress of the vet visit. They just float the poo in a solution and look at it under a microscope, so unless your beardie poops for them it would be a wasted trip anyways. And like Karrieree said NO ENEMAS. they end in tragedy more often than not, they should be a last ditch effort on a beardie thats in dire straights, not a routine part of a check up.
All dragons have some parasites. It is when they get out of control that they need to be medicated. Certain vets will not medicate unless the count is real high. The way to tell if they do have parasites is the poop will become really runny and smell so bad it will make you leave the room. Also if the count is real high they wont eat and can become lethargic. You dont want to medicate your dragon unless its necessary. My dragon tested for parasites last fecal but the vet said they were not high enough to medicate. The basking temps and the UVB will help the dragon keep control over the parasites from getting out of control.I have a microscope, I wonder if I could check it myself.