T5 on top or hanging

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Abberry

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I know that there are probably many discussions on this so sorry for repeats! My baby beardie, 4 -4.5 inches, 5.3 grams isn’t eating more than 2 crickets or roaches a day. I’ve had him 3 days. He poops once per day. Currently I have a 150 W basking bulb, next to a 26 W UVB, not coiled. Both in domes. Temperature about 93-98 on heat side, 77 on cool side. Probably fine mesh steel top. I am going to change the UVB to a T 5 HO 10.0 UVB, because maybe he’s not eating due to the lighting, and have the hood for it. I am confused, as I am reading about reflectors for the UVB bulb, but is the hood the same thing as reflectors? Should I put this inside the tank since it is a metal mesh top, even though it is a T5 VE T8? He is in a 40 gallon tank, 18 inches high. What are recommendations on getting the heat higher, closer to 100-105? Thank you so much!
 

Claudiusx

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It is not uncommon for them to not have much of an appetite during their first week or so while they get over the relocation stress.

That being said, when you hear the term coil, what we are really referring to is compact flourescent. The compact fluorescent bulbs either come in a coil configuration, or an up and down configuration, Which is what you have most likely.

So you still are going to want to update it to the T5.

Distances for T5 (assuming a 10.0 bulb, and assuming bulb is in a fixture WITH a reflector in it)
If mounted under screen, bulb needs to be around 12 inches away from basking surface.
If mounted ontop of a screen, bulb needs to be about 8 inches away from basking surface.

-Brandon
 

KarrieRee

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Beardie name(s)
Hiccup he is 6 and Blaze is 4
How are you taking the basking temp? A 150 watt bulb should be heating the tank up w/ no issue- you need to be using a probe thermometer especially for hammocks being used as basking decor -- depending on your screen you can put the T 5 on top but it must be a wide holed screen - if its a fine mesh it will need to go into the tank --- approx 12-15 inches directly above basking decor- I would get rid of the 26 watt UVB --- the T 5 is a way better bulb and he will get better UVB from it you dont need 2 of them -- hes going thru relocation stress so his eating will be off as Brandon said -- if he stops eating all together theres an issue--- he needs salads every morning - I would get some BSFL to put on top of those salads and to lure him to the salad bowl -- you will need a glass or ceramic bowl to keep them in -- and I would switch over to dubia roaches as well -- better staple feeder easier to take care of and they work great in the bowl as well -- if you need anymore help please ask
Karrie
 

Abberry

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Original Poster
Oh! Yes, thanks Brandon. It is a the up and down, so I’ll definitely switch it to my T5 10.0 tube.
 

Abberry

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B086PC5962?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I’ve hung these in my tank, one at each end to measure the heat and humidity.

I was going to go to the store and see if they have wider mesh tops as I do think mine is fine mesh.

Right now I have a tall rock for basking, maybe about 6 inches from the top, so depending if I hang it inside, I’ll get something lower do he doesn’t burn!

I’ll get some BSLF! Just learned about them from reading this forum last night!

Thanks so much Karrie!
 

Claudiusx

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Yeah, you can't rely on those thermometers for the main important temp you need, which is your basking surface temp. So you will want to pick up a digital with probe end. You can buy them on amazon for like 5 bucks and usually at any petstore for less than 10.

Your basking temp is probably hotter than you expect just because you are really just measuring the air temp with those thermometers.

-Brandon
 

Claudiusx

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Yup that fixture has a reflector. It's the shinny area behind the bulb.

-Brandon
 

Abberry

Member
Original Poster
Ok! All such good information!
So when we say 100-110 degrees for baby beardies we actually are measuring the surface of items ( the rock in the basking, the hammock in the cool (though cool should be like 75-80)) rather than just the air temperature?
 

Claudiusx

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Yeah, that is why I specify basking surface temp. The other temps don't have to be surface temps. Their are really 3 temps to know.
Basking surface, hot side, cool side. Hot and cool side can be ambient temps or surface temps, doesn't matter too much. The most important temp is your basking surface.

-Brandon
 
Abberry":3nrz0to2 said:
Ok! All such good information!
So when we say 100-110 degrees for baby beardies we actually are measuring the surface of items ( the rock in the basking, the hammock in the cool (though cool should be like 75-80)) rather than just the air temperature?

Yes that is correct. You have quite a few options for monitoring the temps. Anything that has a wired probe is what you want to use.

https://www.amazon.com/REPTI-ZOO-Th...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

As Brandon stated, since you're using a 150W bulb the basking temp is probably hotter then is needed. Temps can be lowered a couple different ways. You can try to raise the lamp fixture up off the cage increasing the distance to the basking spot. You can hook the light to a thermostat or hook it to an inline dimmer.
https://www.amazon.com/DEWENWILS-Dimmable-Incandescent-Halogen-Extension/dp/B07CZXMGRB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=35C3EDWKLYRQX&dchild=1&keywords=inline+dimmer+switch+for+lamp+cord&qid=1606409310&sprefix=inline+dimmer%2Caps%2C203&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE2NEZIN0JUVUxGTkUmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAxNjI3OTgyWU9YNTRONzkzR0UzJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3MDkwNDcxVkhERDRYMUY2T0FXJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

As far as the UVB placement. Inside is best as others have stated. With the hood you have, I would try to zip-tie it the screen top if possible. I am not sure using heavy duty 3M tape would be the best option for that hood.
 
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