Heat projector question

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SunDragon

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Can anyone tell me if you can use a zoomed or exoterra double dome fixture (like this one https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Combo-Deep-Fixture/dp/B005KPMCPG) for a 50 or 60watt Arcadia heat projector? Or do I need a special fixture? I can't find clear information on this. Also, when using a Che or heat projector should it be over the basking area? Or is there a better spot? I would think distance from the bulb would matter. What are your thoughts?
 

Claudiusx

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Yup, You just want to make sure you are using a ceramic socket when using a CHE, and the fixture you linked to uses a ceramic socket as opposed to a plastic one. So you're good there.

The distance does matter, just put it at whatever distance gives you the temps that you want. Or use a thermostat.

-Brandon
 

SunDragon

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Hi Brandon,
Thank you so much! So just to confirm- I can use an Arcadia heat projector with the zoomed dome fixture?

I already have a dome fixture (double one) and was hoping to use a 50w Arcadia heat projector bulb with it.
 

CooperDragon

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You can use an on/off or pulse thermostat for it if you want to, but if you can adjust the height to get good temp ranges in the enclosure, then maybe just a timer to have it kick on overnight will do. They can certainly handle the thermostat/dimmers though. I use one connected to pulse mode on my Herpstat.
 

SunDragon

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When measuring the heat output from the Arcadia heat projector, should I put my temperature probe on the bottom of the tank to check the temperature?

I read that Arcadia heat projector runs warmer than a CHE of the same wattage. So for a 40 gal tank, what would be the best wattage if using a CHE and what would be the best wattage if using an Arcadia deep heat projector?

I read I should have the heat over the middle of the cage, is that correct?
 

CooperDragon

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I use the lowest wattage available. You really don't tend to need much to bump the temps unless your house gets very cold. In winter, my house usually hits high 50s overnight at worst and tends to stay a bit warmer inside the enclosure. I have my projector over the cool end of the tank opposite from the basking light. I just put the probe on the floor off to the side (not directly under the projector) and set the thermostat to kick it in below 68 and turn off above 73. Doesn't need to be exact. I also use one over my roach colony to keep their housing side a bit warmer (it's in the cellar).
 

SunDragon

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Thank you CooperDragon!
Ok so if I get the Arcadia, I should go with the 50w. That is the lowest I believe. I am not able to get a thermostat. So if I just put it on top of the cool side and keep it a safe distance all night long it should work ok, right? It can get 20 below outside in the winter here. The room he is in does tend to be cooler in the winter. I can’t keep the door open to circulate the air because I don’t want my cats bothering anything while no one is in the room. It’s around 55 at night here now, soon to be below 40. Last night I checked his cage at 3am and it was 70 in the middle of the cage. So I really must get this very soon. Do you recommend the Arcadia heat projector or a CHE? I was thinking the Arcadia would be a little safer because the bulb doesn’t get so hot. But I don’t know any store that carries it, I’d have to buy it online.
 

CooperDragon

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70 is just right for an overnight temperature. The outdoor and indoor temps will vary quite a bit. It goes subzero here a lot in winter as well (that's when I let it go down into the 50s indoors overnight). The heat that is produced will depend on height. Keep in mind that it will provide a cone of heat under the bulb, so off to the sides it will remain cooler, which is good. You may need to test it out and take some readings late at night/early in the morning to see how high the temps are going. I'd shoot for anywhere ranging from mid 60s to low-mid 70s from high to low temp in the tank overnight. If you can get an adjustable lamp stand (or change the height of the fixture somehow) then you can adjust the temperature output that way too. I use the MegaRay bulbs but I don't know that they are available anymore. Arcadia is probably the way to go, I'd just order them online. I use them for the same reason you mention - I hate how hot the surface of the CHEs get. I dropped one my mistake once and it immediately melted a rug and smoked with coated plastic =X.
 

SunDragon

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Original Poster
Thank you CooperDragon. :)

So when I get the Arcadia 50w I will definitely get another adjustable lamp stand. And I have to buy a fixture too. I think a regular zoomed ceramic dome should work.

After installing over cool side I should take temp readings from warm side and cool side early AM or late PM and I should try for Mid to low70s in the warm side and under the bulb and for Mid 60s on the cool side, right? I have a temperature gun. Can I use that through the glass sides? If so, can I just aim at the tile?

I’ve heard of megaray mercury vapor bulb for daytime, do they make something for at night?
 

CooperDragon

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Save some money on the fixture and get a brooder lamp from a farm supply store. They are under $10 if you can get one locally. This is what I use and they are great. https://www.theisens.com/products/brooder-light/ They come with hooks to make it easy to hang from a lamp stand.

The way I have mine set up, the heat projector is over the cool side. At night, the cool side becomes the warm side and vice versa - it just reverses the gradient.

The version of the heat projectors I have is from Megaray. They are similar to what Arcadia makes. They have been sold out for a while though http://www.reptileuv.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=75&products_id=196
 

SunDragon

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Original Poster
Thank you so much for the tip on the brooder lamp! Will those work with a 100 and/or 150w basking bulb also?

I finally found the Megaray you were talking about. I only saw it for sale at one location and just like you said, it was sold out. That bulb sounds great, wish they were in stock. But if the Arcadia is close, I’ll go with that.

I think I might get another temperature probe for the cool side at night. I have one in the basking area already. Should I get a third one for the bottom center (or bottom of basking area) to see how cool the cold side will be at night?

Thank you so much for all your help!!
 

CooperDragon

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The ones I have are rated to handle 300w and have heavy duty cords. Much better than the reptile specific ones. Having at least 2 probes is good so you can see your gradient at a glance. A 3rd one wouldn't hurt but isn't really necessary unless you want to monitor the area between basking and cool end. There should be a zone in the high 80s-mid 90s available as well. Sometimes they like to hang out below all out basking levels.
 
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