What Size is This Enclosures?

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Draven88

Hatchling Member
They wont be fold able in the sense of hinges and folding up, but they can be taken apart. I was able to locate some of the connectors I was referring to that may make it make more sense. I'm linking an example of a corner one. Where it narrow is what goes inside the square tube. By putting the sides on with bolts (where the hole is drilled through the tube so that it also goes through the connector inside the bolts serve the dual purpose securing the whole frame. The connectors will be tight fitting at first but if being reassembled will eventually not fit so snug, but with the bolts will hold together great. Keep in mind that you need to match connector size to the square tube size, and account for the connector being part of the size so the tubing itself will be slightly shorter than the size of the side total. It wold be preferable if the panels were cut to fit inside to avoid the supports being in odd places, but will still be safe if they are on the outside just will have a bar in the middle of the bottom and such.

https://www.zoro.com/faztek-corner-connector-3-way-series-13-13ft9250/i/G2336485/

For the connections not corners
https://www.zoro.com/faztek-tee-connector-3-way-series-13-13ft9230/i/G2747771/?recommended=true

I didnt see a 4 way, but you could use a 3 way T and then put https://www.zoro.com/8020-inc-base-connector-90-deg-black-9240/i/G0811638/?recommended=true on for the forth tube direction for that back center post.
 

MangosMom1

Member
Original Poster
Draven88":2bl768ag said:
They wont be fold able in the sense of hinges and folding up, but they can be taken apart. I was able to locate some of the connectors I was referring to that may make it make more sense. I'm linking an example of a corner one. Where it narrow is what goes inside the square tube. By putting the sides on with bolts (where the hole is drilled through the tube so that it also goes through the connector inside the bolts serve the dual purpose securing the whole frame. The connectors will be tight fitting at first but if being reassembled will eventually not fit so snug, but with the bolts will hold together great. Keep in mind that you need to match connector size to the square tube size, and account for the connector being part of the size so the tubing itself will be slightly shorter than the size of the side total. It wold be preferable if the panels were cut to fit inside to avoid the supports being in odd places, but will still be safe if they are on the outside just will have a bar in the middle of the bottom and such.

https://www.zoro.com/faztek-corner-connector-3-way-series-13-13ft9250/i/G2336485/

For the connections not corners
https://www.zoro.com/faztek-tee-connector-3-way-series-13-13ft9230/i/G2747771/?recommended=true

I didnt see a 4 way, but you could use a 3 way T and then put https://www.zoro.com/8020-inc-base-connector-90-deg-black-9240/i/G0811638/?recommended=true on for the forth tube direction for that back center post.

Just to be sure, do the connecters go inside or around the long pieces that they are connecting together? I thought they went on the outside but them going on the inside of the tube makes more sense of how they dont get in the way of the walls being put in place. Are the bolts needed to secure the connecters? They dont just stay together?
 

Draven88

Hatchling Member
Yes they can be cut to length and 24 inches was an example that would put it at a total size of 4x2x2. That is a great size for an adult, but the sizes can be adjusted to fit your needs. Just keep in mind the floor space is whats most important. So if you only wanted 18" high but still a 4x2 floor space that is perfectly fine as long as uvb and basking lights are correct to provide the right uvb for the distance and the right temp for basking.

They do go inside, and when first put in they will be snug and stay just fine in 99% of cases. The thing is like with anything, the more you take it apart ans reassemble it will start to wear on the connectors a little. Those particular ones are nylon that I linked and will hold up well, but I would still expect them to loosen over time and not hold as tightly. This is why I would suggest That you lay out the panels so that the bolts that attach then also go through the ends of the square tube in such a way that it also goes through the nylon connector that is pushed in that end.

So for instance the side panels go through the vertical tubes and connector and the top and bottom panels can be attached with their bolts through the horizontal tube and connector where they overlap. You will only need to lay it out so that each connection has one bolt and that will take care of all corners. The back panel can be bolted anywhere that hold securely on the sides as the side panel bolts will have taken care of those verticals and you can use that panels center to bolt through the center connectors.

The front wont have a a panel but acrylic doors. so you can just add bolts there if needed if and when it loosens up and just put rails for the doors to slide on attached to those horizontal tubes.

It will cost more than the option you posted, but I do believe it will hold up better long term. Especially if you use a PVC sheet for for the sides and bottom, it will be super easy to clean and durable.
 

MangosMom1

Member
Original Poster
Draven88":1svh6dno said:
Yes they can be cut to length and 24 inches was an example that would put it at a total size of 4x2x2. That is a great size for an adult, but the sizes can be adjusted to fit your needs. Just keep in mind the floor space is whats most important. So if you only wanted 18" high but still a 4x2 floor space that is perfectly fine as long as uvb and basking lights are correct to provide the right uvb for the distance and the right temp for basking.

They do go inside, and when first put in they will be snug and stay just fine in 99% of cases. The thing is like with anything, the more you take it apart ans reassemble it will start to wear on the connectors a little. Those particular ones are nylon that I linked and will hold up well, but I would still expect them to loosen over time and not hold as tightly. This is why I would suggest That you lay out the panels so that the bolts that attach then also go through the ends of the square tube in such a way that it also goes through the nylon connector that is pushed in that end.

So for instance the side panels go through the vertical tubes and connector and the top and bottom panels can be attached with their bolts through the horizontal tube and connector where they overlap. You will only need to lay it out so that each connection has one bolt and that will take care of all corners. The back panel can be bolted anywhere that hold securely on the sides as the side panel bolts will have taken care of those verticals and you can use that panels center to bolt through the center connectors.

The front wont have a a panel but acrylic doors. so you can just add bolts there if needed if and when it loosens up and just put rails for the doors to slide on attached to those horizontal tubes.

It will cost more than the option you posted, but I do believe it will hold up better long term. Especially if you use a PVC sheet for for the sides and bottom, it will be super easy to clean and durable.

I noticed the prices of all the tubing definitely adds up. The only deals I can find are round tubing ( which i think i could make work except finding inside connectors for round ). I'm spending most my money the plane tickets and shipping of my beardie, but I'll try my best to make him a good home we can travel with.
 

Draven88

Hatchling Member
Yes, its not the cheapest route to go but its an option. If you do have to go with with the enclosure you originally linked for a short time you will just want to be careful that the lights aren't going to be too hot next to the fabric something like https://www.petsmart.com/reptile/en...med-reptile-lamp-stand-14886.html?cgid=500202 with something good and heavy holding the base firmly in place is good for holding a basking light as its height adjustable. You could also hang a uvb from a pair of them making it 3 of them to hang the lights. Then if you upgrade later on if its something with a screen top they are still usable as part of that setup. Ultimately you are going to have to go with what works best for you, and size wise that fold able will work. Its just a matter of if the fabric will be safe for those hot lights, something to research (I looked some but only fount that its only fire resistance with coatings added which it does not mention in the listing).
 

Draven88

Hatchling Member
Here is a link for the tubing in PVC at 3/4 inch and a material thickness if 1/16, its much cheaper than the aluminum but of course wont have the same strength.

https://www.rhfs.com/square-tube-stock/1634.025

It would just require matching up the right inside size for the connectors. (3/4 minus the two 1/16 walls thickness. 2/16 simplified to 1/8 subtracted from 3/4 or 6/8 would man a 5/8 inside size of the tube and that's the connector size you would need.)

Keep in mind though that pvc vs aluminum not to over tighten the bolts holding on the panels as it could crack the pvc square tube.

There are other sizes available https://www.rhfs.com/square-tube-stock.html so there are options but the wall thickness doesn't get much thicker until the tube is larger than you would want.
 

MangosMom1

Member
Original Poster
Draven88":17j8qyq7 said:
Yes, its not the cheapest route to go but its an option. If you do have to go with with the enclosure you originally linked for a short time you will just want to be careful that the lights aren't going to be too hot next to the fabric something like https://www.petsmart.com/reptile/en...med-reptile-lamp-stand-14886.html?cgid=500202 with something good and heavy holding the base firmly in place is good for holding a basking light as its height adjustable. You could also hang a uvb from a pair of them making it 3 of them to hang the lights. Then if you upgrade later on if its something with a screen top they are still usable as part of that setup. Ultimately you are going to have to go with what works best for you, and size wise that fold able will work. Its just a matter of if the fabric will be safe for those hot lights, something to research (I looked some but only fount that its only fire resistance with coatings added which it does not mention in the listing).

My uncle has a lot of materials including pipes/tubing I can use to save some money, and I believe pvc sheets or laminate which I think would work. Screening is extremely cheap, but is aluminum or fiberglass screen mesh better? Connectors and acrylic sheets are likely the only things I will probably have to buy if I look around and ask. The bolts+nuts have to be taken out to take apart right? Do you build/create often?
 

Draven88

Hatchling Member
MangosMom1":uu92qudt said:
My uncle has a lot of materials including pipes/tubing I can use to save some money, and I believe pvc sheets or laminate which I think would work. Screening is extremely cheap, but is aluminum or fiberglass screen mesh better? Connectors and acrylic sheets are likely the only things I will probably have to buy if I look around and ask. The bolts+nuts have to be taken out to take apart right? Do you build/create often?

For the screening you can get a window kit for the custom size and either fiberglass or aluminum screening will work. I simply prefer the aluminum as it seems to hold up better long term in projects I have done.

For the bolts, as I described if they are through the tubing and connector would have to come out to disassemble. But with that in mid your side panels could be left in tact just removed from the rest of the frame basically taking the ends off and it can be transported in sections based on space available without necessarily having to be back to just the base parts every time.

As far as building I do a wide variety of different things as the need arises so it can be sporadic if its building enclosures/furniture or electrical wiring or building a computer system. I am basically that person that will go research and learn to do something rather than just be ok paying more for off the shelf. It also is a major plus when custom size shape or the like is needed. I've built custom desks in the past to fit a certain space, tables and benches for outdoor areas, and even cabinets and shelves to cover an entire wall to look built in rather than as an after though addition.

As an example I have 6 beardies right now, and in my case I didn't want to lose the wall space for 6 individual enclosures side by side (4x2x2 would have been 24 feet of wall space plus room between for ventilation). So I sketched a few designs and then took them to Blender (free 3d modeling software found at blender.org) and made it into a 3d model I could look at. I will add a pic below. What I ended up with resembles a bookshelf that is 4 foot wide 2 foot deep and 6 1/2 foot tall. I left a small space under the bottom so that the lowest enclosure wasn't in contact with the floor as it is tile and I didn't want to drag down the enclosure temps in winter months. and the res accounted for the thickness of the shelves. Any stack able enclosures I would find that I liked were a minimum of $300 range each, so with 6 and shipping I was looking at $2000 range. I built my 2 triple high (3 enclosures each) for $500 in materials and some time. That's not including the UVB and Basking lights but those would be added expenses wither way. And in the end I got something I really wanted not just the closest thing I could find.

That is why I will always do my best to help anyone interested in a DIY enclosure as much as I can as well, because anything you can save while getting just as nice of an enclosure and sometimes better is money saved for things like quality feeders, the right UVB replaced when it needs to be and just overall good husbandry.

In this picture I was finished with the build of the enclosure but still in the process of moving and setting them up folly so they look very bare, but decor was added after and continues to be upgraded. Still some construction mess in the shot as well 8)

4DR68KJ.jpg
 

MangosMom1

Member
Original Poster
Draven88":10dntcif said:
As far as building I do a wide variety of different things as the need arises so it can be sporadic if its building enclosures/furniture or electrical wiring or building a computer system. I am basically that person that will go research and learn to do something rather than just be ok paying more for off the shelf. It also is a major plus when custom size shape or the like is needed. I've built custom desks in the past to fit a certain space, tables and benches for outdoor areas, and even cabinets and shelves to cover an entire wall to look built in rather than as an after though addition.

As an example I have 6 beardies right now, and in my case I didn't want to lose the wall space for 6 individual enclosures side by side (4x2x2 would have been 24 feet of wall space plus room between for ventilation). So I sketched a few designs and then took them to Blender (free 3d modeling software found at blender.org) and made it into a 3d model I could look at. I will add a pic below. What I ended up with resembles a bookshelf that is 4 foot wide 2 foot deep and 6 1/2 foot tall. I left a small space under the bottom so that the lowest enclosure wasn't in contact with the floor as it is tile and I didn't want to drag down the enclosure temps in winter months. and the res accounted for the thickness of the shelves. Any stack able enclosures I would find that I liked were a minimum of $300 range each, so with 6 and shipping I was looking at $2000 range. I built my 2 triple high (3 enclosures each) for $500 in materials and some time. That's not including the UVB and Basking lights but those would be added expenses wither way. And in the end I got something I really wanted not just the closest thing I could find.

That is why I will always do my best to help anyone interested in a DIY enclosure as much as I can as well, because anything you can save while getting just as nice of an enclosure and sometimes better is money saved for things like quality feeders, the right UVB replaced when it needs to be and just overall good husbandry.

In this picture I was finished with the build of the enclosure but still in the process of moving and setting them up folly so they look very bare, but decor was added after and continues to be upgraded. Still some construction mess in the shot as well 8)

4DR68KJ.jpg

Darn, those enclosures look super sweet. On my old farm I built homes for animals constantly but it's a little harder to make lizard enclosures I think. It's nothing like this. I'm sure this one will be a lot better thanks to your help, and it can be build for my needs, Mango thanks you too. I do a lot of art, paper, 2d animation, sometimes 3d, except I'm better at abstract, people, animals, not so much designing things to build that are more complicated like a traveling lizard home. Almost my whole family is so great at building, I need to work on my skills lol. I do enjoy creating things if I can.
Your dragons and enclosures are both great looking.
 
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