Other pet reptiles

HI here are some pics feel free to share yours.

Beautiful, are those ackie monitors ? Here is my Fireskink :

https://www.beardeddragon.org/media/29989/full

https://www.beardeddragon.org/media/30015/full

And my clown agama :

https://www.beardeddragon.org/media/30030/full

https://www.beardeddragon.org/media/29898/full

Yes they are ackie monitors I bought a pair of them a place called Jaws and claws very good place they ship them up to me and they both act like they weren't even in shipping.

This little turd is the escape artist. I will capture a good shot of his frill when I get a good one.
While I have your attention...I have heard a number of times that these characters don't like to be out of their enclosures but, I find that ours want to be out and seem very comfortable in my wife's care?
In fact if they are lounging with her and I place them back in their cage they seem to give me an evil eye and/or attitude, if you will. any comments on that?

Eastern water skinks ( Fluffy and Gutzy ) , lots of photos on this board , housed together. My male Cheakie was a little escape artist and refused to stay put , he escaped 3 times in the last 6 months , and now lives happily under the house after his last escape , and now has a harem of lady water skinks.

Eastern bluetongue skinks ( George & Mildred , housed separately , not allowed to breed , companion pets ).

Living in the house ( comes out for visits most nights ) Godzilla the G.Dubia Gecko.
If I buy any geckos I think they'll be velvets ( only because they are bigger and more tameable ), I have G.Dudia living in my study, main bedroom, bathroom ( usually only hear them churping) and kitchen/dining ( Godzilla ) and under house, and I've seen wild velvets in my bluegum..
http://www.dolittlefarm.com.au/docs/velvet.pdf

I find ackies very appealing. Definitely on my one-day list. Same as frilled necked dragons and eastern water dragons. (I've a soft spot for water dragons …. they are very impressive and personable characters with loads of charm and smarts).
I often see wild Mertens' Water Monitors ( they are a serious lizard ), saw lots Mangrove monitors in the Kimberley, NT and FNQLD

There are forums/sections below for other reptiles, collectively or by genus.

viewforum.php?f=66

Well here's another question I am unaware of... I have a baby frilled as well and I have her housed in a
12x12x12 container. I've heard that I shouldn't place her in a bigger container too soon but what I can't determine is, how soon is too soon? She is about 6in. now.

northruprj":1wbpao6h said:

Well here's another question I am unaware of... I have a baby frilled as well and I have her housed in a
12x12x12 container. I've heard that I shouldn't place her in a bigger container too soon but what I can't determine is, how soon is too soon? She is about 6in. now.

Click to expand...

I know a breeder who has frillnecked dragons , he keeps the hatchlings in 140L tubs (LID ON !).
These types of dragons are very good leapers and leap up a long way ( so a lid on to stop it from leaping all the way out of the tank ).

Your little dragon will be fine in 120L tub for it's first 6 - 8 months.A 120L tub is 80cm LONG, 50cm WIDE and 45cm TALL.

This issue more to do with feeding , if the tank is too big , and too many live insects are given at once , they can very easily be overwhelmed by fast moving insects crawling and scullying and hoping in all directions and loose them amongst the furnishings and bedding.
A smaller tank is better, but the tank needs to be AT LEAST 2 or 3 x the length of the lizard , so 12" total length ==> 36" long and 24" wide minimum.

So yes , a bigger tank ASAP is necessary. That tank you have is TOO SMALL, you got very poor advise.

Best give us a run down on the lights , temperatures , diet ( insect sizes and how often ) , bedding etc as it's likely the advise you was given was bad there too.
I don't keep frillnecked dragons but have a copy of https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/16172307-a-guide-to-australian-dragons-in-captivity and will check against Dr.Brown's guidance for frillnecked dragon hatching husbandry and requirements.
His books are the goto bibles for reptile keeper best practice here.

kingofnobbys":35bpuvy2 said:

the tank needs to be AT LEAST 2 or 3 x the length of the lizard

Click to expand...

I'm really liking this as a "new" standard for enclosures, as described here:
Reptile Housing: Size, Dimension and Lifestyle
but there's a LOT of resistance.

Thanks guys! I have a 2x4x2 I wanted to move her into but was worried at the poor advise I was originally given. I keep all of their enclosures at a 90-110 F at the hot end with UVA and B with a cool end at 70-85 F. I have a fogger/mister which I am able to keep the humidity levels between 45 and 65.
But I would like to know really what the best lighting is to use because I've been using those dome type with the emiters. And I don't really like what I have in the baby's 12x12x12 of which is why I wanted to change her home in the first place.

By the way...I have learned exactly how far the little **** can leap, believe me you. LOL

MrSpectrum":2xdj75ez said:

kingofnobbys":2xdj75ez said:

the tank needs to be AT LEAST 2 or 3 x the length of the lizard

Click to expand...

I'm really liking this as a "new" standard for enclosures, as described here:
Reptile Housing: Size, Dimension and Lifestyle
but there's a LOT of resistance.

Click to expand...

Looks very similar to the NSW reptile keepers' code of best practice ( I'll add the link later ).

https://reptilepark.com.au/animals/reptiles/dragons/frilled-neck-lizard/
https://bie.ala.org.au/species/urn:lsid:biodiversity.org.au:afd.taxon:3cabd997-b0ac-4ccd-8918-ae44ec1b556b

Note NOT a suitable dragon for beginners.

caresheet https://www.herpshop.com.au/CareSheets/Frillies.html
Best caresheet I have seen for FND is
http://nswfmpa.org/Husbandry%20Manuals/Published%20Manuals/Reptilia/Frilled%20Lizard.pdf

Summary

The desired temperature at the hot end of the exhibit should be around 35° to 38°C and a cooler end at around 24° to 27°C.
If night time temperatures fall below 18°C a night heat lamp or ceramic heat emitter can be used to provide enough heat to keep the animals warm on cold night as these heating elements give off little light.

Humidity levels for Frilled Lizards should be maintained between 50 - 70% and this can be provided by supplying lizards with a large shallow bowl.
Respiratory infection may occur if humidity levels become too high.

FNDs are tropical woodland and savannah terrestrial dragons and require VERY high levels of UVB wavelengths which help prevent Metabolic Bone Disease and strengthen and improve growth in lizards as well as producing high levels of UVA wavelengths which help to increase appetite and normal behaviour, eg. Reproductive behaviour. An example of full spectrum lighting is Zoo-med T5HO Reptisun 10.0 UVB and Exo-Terra Repti Glo 10.0 .
'The breeder I know used Arcadia T5ho 14% Tubes in his 1.8m tall FND enclosures ( they like to climb and will often bask inside 30cm of their T5ho 14% UVB light.
A T5ho 10%UVB tube should be placed no more than 300mm above the lizard ( no mesh lid under the tube , tube in a good quality reflector hood. Full spectrum lighting should be replaced approximately every 12 months, as their effectiveness diminishes with age (ie. with long term use).

Photoperiod the breeder uses in summer is 16 hours ON, 8 hours OFF, in winter he reduced to 13 hours ON.

The breeder I know has a mixed group of 3 dragons, 2 female + 1 male in this specially made enclosure .
For this species a good size enclosure would consists of the following dimensions: 240cm (L) x 240cm (W) x 180cm (H) for a single pair of Frilled lizards.
EAPA Standard 2004 calls for 238cm (L) x 238cm (W) x 240cm (H) for a single pair of ADULT Frilled lizards.
His FNDs come out to free range in the house everyday as a group.
I know a few other keepers who live in Qld and NT who have their FNDs in large converted outdoor pits with bird cage wire to keep the dragons in and predators out.

Melbourne Zoo uses just plain river sand (Mike Swan.)
Taronga Zoo uses a sandy soil mix with eucalypt leaves scattered on top. (Michael McFadden)
Sydney Wildlife World uses eucalyptus mulch , Gosford Reptile Park does the same , as does the breeder I know. The mulch is gathered locally from farmland and crownland (forests) as are fallen tree branches used as "furnature". This extends from floor to about 30cm from the top of the indoor enclosure ( essentially a small converted bedroom ).
Hatchling Frilled Lizards can be kept on newspaper or absorbant heavy duty kitchen grade paper towels.

Feeding schedule :
Taronga Zoo:
Feed frilled lizards predominantly House Crickets (Acheta domesticus), but add in other invertebrates such as African Migratory Locusts (Locusta migratoria) and Speckled Roaches (Nauphoeta cinerea). Insects are coated in calcium or multivitamins.
Feeding increases in Spring and Summer throughout the breeding season to ensure the females have sufficient energy to replenish energy used during breeding.
The varied diet ensures the animals get a range of prey which may be beneficial in terms of nutrition and also in terms of enrichment.
Lizards are fed 3 times a week (Michael McFadden.).

Melbourne Zoo
Insects (Grasshoppers, Crickets etc).
No breeding / non- breeding diet.
No alternative diets used.
Lizards are fed 3 times a week. (Mike Swan).

Australian (Gosford) Reptile Park
Frilled Lizards fed pinkies, Crickets and Greens.
Greens Include: Endive, spinach, Bok choy and Choy sum or other dark leafed asian vegetables & fruit are suitable.
Food is increased for the breeding season and supplemented more with calcium.
Diet kept as natural as possible.
Lizards are fed 3 times a week. (Sam Chatfield)
The breeder I know follows this.

Fresh drinking water must be provided at all times. Water can be given to Frilled Lizards via one of two forms (can be sprayed 2-3 days weekly).

northruprj":3nxi35i1 said:

This little turd is the escape artist. I will capture a good shot of his frill when I get a good one.
While I have your attention...I have heard a number of times that these characters don't like to be out of their enclosures but, I find that ours want to be out and seem very comfortable in my wife's care?
In fact if they are lounging with her and I place them back in their cage they seem to give me an evil eye and/or attitude, if you will. any comments on that?

Click to expand...

Possibly imprinted onto your wife sometimes they can be more attached to an a particular individualpossibly that or just wasn't ready to go back inside probably looking at you like you just ruined my fun LOL.

So I obtained a bigger enclosure for my middle size FNL and I have been able to keep the humidity level pretty even at 55-60. I have taken "kingofnobbys" advice and purchased a top of the line t5ho lighting fixture and a basking lamp. I have noticed that she doesn't like the temp above 100 so I know for sure that 110 is way too hot for FNL's. How about air circulation.?. The new enclosure didn't seem to me that it had enough ventilation holes at the top so I drilled 12 3/8" holes but I am curious to know how I can tell. Any thoughts? The living space for her is 3'x2'x4' however, the entire enclosure is 3'x2'x7'. It was built for and housed a beardie as I am told. I must say also at this point that I value and have used the advice I have been given on this site and our "babies" have shown a noticeable difference in their personalities and attitude for the lack of better terms.