Pinkish/Orangish Uriate

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Pinkish/Orangish Uriate

Postby Spikemclizzy3 » Mon Oct 07, 2019 4:49 pm

I was given a 3 year old Bearded Dragon, almost a year ago.
He was not getting vegetables or greens.
Now that he has greens and vegetables, he has grown so much!
He has been shedding for months.
So, my question is has anyone seen pinkish/Orangish Uriate in Bearded dragons?
Could it be related to shedding? He has stopped but now I don't know if he's going to shed again or if he sick or ready to burmnate.
He's been so tired, not basking, barely eating and only poops with a bath now.
He has been to the Vet and had a Fecal. It came back clean. He had bloodwork in April, came back good.
He has, a basking light/slash all UV's in one. His Temps are 90-105 hot side. 80 cool side.
He is feed greens, vegetables and occasional fruits.
He will only eat superworms, I've tried everything else. He gets 5-7 every other day. I breed them, they are gut loaded. I keep a constant supply of a calcium gel in the worms enclosure.
Am I over gut loading? Could I be oding my beardie?
I don't dust the worms more then once a week since they are gut loaded constantly.
He really worries me then I take him to the vet and they say he is fine.
[Click image to enlarge]

Thanks!
Last edited by Spikemclizzy3 on Mon Oct 07, 2019 6:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Pinkish/Orangish Uriate

Postby KarrieRee » Mon Oct 07, 2019 5:01 pm

What all in one bulb are you using? Diet consist of what vegies? Are you feeding him anything orange? Like orange peppers or sweet potato etc?
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Re: Pinkish/Orangish Uriate

Postby claudiusx » Mon Oct 07, 2019 6:22 pm

Hi there,

Discolored urates can be caused by a few things.

Slight dehydration
Over supplementation
Or certain food items that the feeder insects eat.

I'm guessing it's probably a combination of the 3. If the supers are eating a really high calcium diet, it's likely being processed and passing through the urate of your dragon.
What exactly are you feeding the supers? The cricket gel food?

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Re: Pinkish/Orangish Uriate

Postby claudiusx » Mon Oct 07, 2019 6:22 pm

Moved by Moderator from General to Health
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Re: Pinkish/Orangish Uriate

Postby Spikemclizzy3 » Mon Oct 07, 2019 6:32 pm

I thought it was the butternut squash but he hasn't had it for a couple of weeks.
Like I said in the OP, he hasn't been eating much.
He's either going to have a big shed or start burmnation or he's sick but he has been checked out by the vet.

This is his light.
MyComfyPets UVB Light and UVA 2-in-1 Reptile Bulb 100W for Bearded Dragons and All Reptiles (400 UVB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWSJKJ6/re ... MDbQX0MWH5

The superworms are fed Fluckers cricket quencher, as of tonight, I took that out and just added carrots. I just saw a video saying to only gut load them a day before feeding.

He hates drinking water, he never does. I give him warm soaks for 15-20 mins 3-4 times a week and mists on the days I don't bathe him. I can't get him to drink water.

His uriate has been like this for a couple of months now. The vet couldn't see anything wrong. I don't what I'm doing wrong.
Last edited by Spikemclizzy3 on Mon Oct 07, 2019 7:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Pinkish/Orangish Uriate

Postby claudiusx » Mon Oct 07, 2019 6:41 pm

The reason I asked if you feed them the cricket cubes is because the cricket cubes cause that in the urates.

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Re: Pinkish/Orangish Uriate

Postby Spikemclizzy3 » Mon Oct 07, 2019 6:47 pm

I feed the superworms Fluker's Cricket Quencher Calcium Fortified.
I'm trying to post a picture of it but it won't let me.
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Re: Pinkish/Orangish Uriate

Postby kingofnobbys » Wed Oct 09, 2019 8:37 pm

Spikemclizzy3 wrote:I feed the superworms Fluker's Cricket Quencher Calcium Fortified.
I'm trying to post a picture of it but it won't let me.

I strongly suggest you toss out the Cricket Quencher rubbish .

Best way to give crickets a source of moisture is fresh chunck of carrot ( just wash then chop in bits about the size of your thumb) & to give the crickets fresh high calcium greens .

Superworms , just toss a washed 1/2 carrot and maybe the whites from puk or buk choi in with them , they will eat it and get moisture in the process. Choi will give them calcium.

I'd try nudging the warm zone temperature down 6 degF to 10 degF , if the dragon refuses to bask, it's likely because it's too hot at the basking spot for it and it doesn't it there.

If this doesn't result in the dragon going to the basking spot, the issue will be the quality if the MVB ( cheaper "shop" brand MVBs are usually cheap nasty imports from places like China that are reboxed ), in these cases very poor quality quartz is used which is not flaw free and has poor thickness control , result is they can leak UVC and have a poor UV spectrum c/f brands like Arcadia Reptile, Zoo Med and Exo Terra.

MyComfyPets MVBs quality is dubious at the least. Instructions I read on the Amazon ad for that globe are very poor , lacks uva and uvb flux at a range of distances .

Image

where is the guidance to distance from the globe to the basking spot ( seems absent entirely ) ?
Your dragon needs the MVB on at least 14 hr per day.
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