New baby beardie stopped eating and has reddish poop

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New baby beardie stopped eating and has reddish poop

Postby Mariko » Wed Sep 18, 2019 2:29 am

Hi, I got a baby beardie around 10 days ago and it has stopped eating after day 2:(

It ate 4 dubia roaches on day 1and 4 crickets for day 2 and has stopped eating since :(
[Click image to enlarge]


He started to have watery poo and sometimes it would be red so I'm worried it's blood
[Click image to enlarge]


I've been giving him water mixed with reptile vitamins so he won't get dehydrated but I'm not sure how to get him to start eating:( advice would be greatly appreciated

P. S. Here is his enclosure
[Click image to enlarge]
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Re: New baby beardie stopped eating and has reddish poop

Postby KarrieRee » Wed Sep 18, 2019 5:01 am

What is on top for light? Do you have a basking light? What are the temps for basking? They should be 105-110--- and taken w/ a digital probe or infrared heat gun --- NO STICK ONS!! totally inaccurate-- I see the fixture is a EXO Terra --- what is in it? Your baby will go thru relocation stress and slow on eating but he should not completely stop!! What are you feeding him/ her? He should be eating 2 times per day depending on how many bugs he eats at morning feeds--- crickets or dubia roaches I recommend the roaches -- dusted in calcium D3 5 x per week w/ Vitamins 2 x per week -- vegies should be offered first w/ a few small super worms on top for enticement to bowl --- feed insects like a hr later - this will hopefully get them to start eating vegies now and later you wont have a issue getting them to eat when older -- my baby eats around 10-12 small roaches in the morning but I first feed the vegies w/ the super worms or nutri grubs or ( BFSL) on top of greens which gets him to bowl- but first the lighting needs to be straightened out --- that is my guess is to why hes not eating! Also he needs to be able to sit under the UVB from a certain distance but I dont know what is in the fixture you have on top of the tank - until the lighting is fixed and basking temps are correct he wont eat
Karrie
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Re: New baby beardie stopped eating and has reddish poop

Postby Mariko » Wed Sep 18, 2019 5:24 am

KarrieRee wrote:What is on top for light? Do you have a basking light? What are the temps for basking? They should be 105-110--- and taken w/ a digital probe or infrared heat gun --- NO STICK ONS!! totally inaccurate-- I see the fixture is a EXO Terra --- what is in it? Your baby will go thru relocation stress and slow on eating but he should not completely stop!! What are you feeding him/ her? He should be eating 2 times per day depending on how many bugs he eats at morning feeds--- crickets or dubia roaches I recommend the roaches -- dusted in calcium D3 5 x per week w/ Vitamins 2 x per week -- vegies should be offered first w/ a few small super worms on top for enticement to bowl --- feed insects like a hr later - this will hopefully get them to start eating vegies now and later you wont have a issue getting them to eat when older -- my baby eats around 10-12 small roaches in the morning but I first feed the vegies w/ the super worms or nutri grubs or ( BFSL) on top of greens which gets him to bowl- but first the lighting needs to be straightened out --- that is my guess is to why hes not eating! Also he needs to be able to sit under the UVB from a certain distance but I dont know what is in the fixture you have on top of the tank - until the lighting is fixed and basking temps are correct he wont eat
Karrie




Hi thank you for replying!
The top light is EXO terra's Reptile UVB 150 and I do have a basking light directly on top of the rock on the left. It's set to 100 but I'll start setting it to 105 from now on and I'll be getting an infrared heat gun asap.

I've been trying to feed him morning and night, crickets and dubia roaches but he only follows them but won't eat.
Should I be worried about his poo?

Again, thank u for replying!
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Re: New baby beardie stopped eating and has reddish poop

Postby KarrieRee » Wed Sep 18, 2019 5:48 am

Since I wasnt sure what the UVB was I googled it is it a coil???????????? If its a coil please get rid of it--- they are no good -- you need one of these
Which UVB light should I use?
The best UVB light is a ReptiSun 10.0 fluorescent tube HO (Or Arcardia 12% in the UK). Compact or coil bulbs do not emit the proper amount of UVB light for a bearded dragon, and should not be used. Other brands, such as the Zilla Desert Series and ReptiGlo have been known to cause eye problems and other health issues with bearded dragons, and should be avoided. The reason that some UVB lights (Zilla, ReptiGlo, coils/compacts, ect.) are considered dangerous is because the wavelength of UVB that they emit is shorter and more intense than the wavelength of the "safe" lights (ReptiSun, Arcadia). UVB lights should be replaced every 6 months. The T5’s are a strong bulb and only need to be replaced once a year – the T 8 every 6 months--- where as the T 8 are not as strong—they need to be placed inside the tank the T 5 10.0 bulb approx 10-11 inches from basking spot – the T 8 approx 8-10 inches from basking spot—the cover needs to be off the bulb for full effect of the UVB rays-- I am guessing this is one of the causes for not eating ---- the red poop I am not sure - has he eaten anything red? Like red peppers ? I really dont know -- some one else on the board would haft to look at it --- but at this time I would get your lighting fixed --- please do not get a full length fixture for the tank - they need to be able to escape the UVB if need be -- what size tank is that? I am sure your little one is going thru relocation stress and its common for them to not eat as much the red poo could be some of that -- I would get the lighting corrected and see if he starts eating and then watch for the red in the poo again -- has it been more than one time for the red poo or just once?
Karrie
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Re: New baby beardie stopped eating and has reddish poop

Postby kingofnobbys » Wed Sep 18, 2019 6:31 am

A few things that you can do immediately.

1) exchange the UVB150 ( only rated at 5% UVB ) for a 26W UVB200 ( 10% UVB ) & and install a basking globe near as you can get to one end of the VERY SMALL TANK.
2) get a some cable ties ( long enough to wrap around the nano- or micro- hood you have sitting on top the tank )
cable ties like this
Image
3) push the cable ties through the mesh ( in the lid ) to form 2 loops ( one at each end of the nano- or micro- hood ) , slip the hood into the loose loops under the mesh lid, then tighten .
4) check the 26W UVB200 is no further than 8 from the basking spot ,this will ensure adequate UVA and UVB .

5) throw out the analog dial thermometer , the type of thermometer you have at the moment are worthless and some are as much as 30% out , so it might be 30 degrees off , I strongly recomment you replace it with something like https://www.amazon.com.au/Digital-Therm ... 7831&psc=1
( you need one at each of the following locations :
> ontop the basking spot ( tape the probe to the basking spot - using cloth tape )
> one dangling in the air in the warm zone
> one dangling in the air in the cool zone
> wont hurt to have one under the hide too.

A bunch of digital thermometers will give accurate temperatures that you can see at a glance at any time , noncontact (gun) thermometers are OK but you have to learn how to use them properly to get accurate temperatures.

Ensure basking spot temperature IS NOT HOTTER THAN 40 degC.
Ensure the warm zone is about 35 degC.
Ensure the cool zone is about 28 degC.

What are you using for a basking globe ? is it colored ?

I think you are going to have trouble achieving a good stable thermal gradient in tank shown , I'd recommend upsizing to a tank twice as long ASAP.

You might get a better result if you retire the nano- / micro- hood and UVB200 for later and invest in an 80W or 100W MVB and ceramic e27 reflector hood , I'd cut a hole in the mesh lid to allow the UV to travel unshaded from the MVB to the basking spot.
A 80W or 100W MVB will provide heat , UVA , UVB and bright light and will likely be best solution for the tiny tank you have .


What size insects are you trying to feed the hatchling ?
This thread will offer some guidance on what to give a hatchling to eat , ie feeders that are best, feeding schedule , supplementation .
viewtopic.php?f=45&t=244111&p=1859195#p1859195

Once
a) you have the UVA levels right ( UVA levels impact on a dragon's vision ( they see UVA ) and their appetite is influenced by UVA levels , too low ==> poor appetite ) and you need very good levels of UVB to support metabolisation of dietary calcium and to promote the photosynthesis of VitD3.
b) you have the zone temperatures and basking spot temperatures are set up correctly .
…. you should pretty quickly see a increase in basking, and a better feeding response.

It is OK to assist feed a hatchling who is refusing to eat , here is some guidance on who to do this :
viewtopic.php?f=18&t=235583
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EWSs : Fluffy rescued injured by lawnwacker14Nov17, Gutzy 27Sep19.
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