I’m worried about my new baby bearded dragon

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Hi so I’m pretty new at bearded dragons and I did a lot of research and I finally got one yesterday. The one that I got is very small maybe only 4 or 5 inches and in the store he seemed very active and the owner let me handle and feed him and he seemed to be doing great. However now at home he does not move hardly ever he barely ever even opens his eyes. He seems extremely lethargic. I tried giving him some fruits and vegetables and he had no interest and then I tried introducing some small crickets like what they had me do in the store and he had a small interest in them but didn’t end up actually going for any crickets. So he hasn’t eaten or drank anything. One time I moved him and he climbed into his water bowl and pooped and then stopped moving again so I’m just a bit worried. He’s in a 20 gallon tank with the cold side sitting at about 80 degrees and the warm side between 95-100 degrees and I’m struggling to get it any higher than that. He has a 75 watt basking bulb and a 13 watt UVB High output bulb both are what the tank he’s in came with. The humidity level is about 35-40% and I have the carpet as a substrate along without some fake plants and hiding places and a basking rock. I tried feeding live small crickets, dried bearded dragon food pellets, and moist pellets, and fruits and vegetables and he has no interest. I’m just worried I may be doing something wrong? He is very small and I don’t wanna risk loosing him
 

KarrieRee

BD.org Sicko
Beardie name(s)
Hiccup he is 6 and Blaze is 4
Relocation stress but also could be UVB--- what kind of UVB brand and bulb please
Basking should be higher for baby 100-110--please post pics of tank--- go to top of page in banner click on user image uploader - download pics click reply on top of message box click on XIMG-- pics should post
Karrie
 
It can take a week to two weeks for your beardie to get acclimated to their new environment. Spend some time with them everyday, talk to them a lot so they will get used to your voice, and attempt handling after a couple of days. I would suggest taking the water bowl out of their tank, as they really don't drink too much water and it can cause the tank humidity to be too high, which can cause respiratory infections. Bathe 1x week, more if they are shedding (they get hydrated through skin in bathtime!) Baby/juvenile beardies don't eat a ton of greens/veggies/fruit. Their diet should be about 80% carnivorous 20% herbivore at this point. Still, offer greens daily and only as many crickets/other live food as they will eat within a 10-15 ish minute time frame. Hope that helped!
 

Krystencastillo9807

Member
Original Poster
KarrieRee":f991askh said:
Relocation stress but also could be UVB--- what kind of UVB brand and bulb please
Basking should be higher for baby 100-110--please post pics of tank--- go to top of page in banner click on user image uploader - download pics click reply on top of message box click on XIMG-- pics should post
Karrie

Both the UVB high output bulb and the basking bulb are by the brand all living things. He did not move at all from where he was basically all day and last night. I moved him a small bit so his head is up now but other than that he is the same and still hasn’t eaten.
104576-1461384502.jpg
104576-7923897025.jpg
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
Krystencastillo9807":3pmn3dn8 said:
Both the UVB high output bulb and the basking bulb are by the brand all living things. He did not move at all from where he was basically all day and last night. I moved him a small bit so his head is up now but other than that he is the same and still hasn’t eaten.
104576-7923897025.jpg

Get rid of the All Living Things UV globe , it's rubbish made in china and not likely to be emitting a healthy UV spectrum.
Replace it with an Arcadia Reptile , or Zoo Med , or Exo Terra UV globe / tube .

How tall is the tank ?
How far from the lid is the basking spot ?

I see a compact , wattage (13W) and UVB rating ?
and it's mounted ontop a mesh lid ==> very poor setup , the dragon will never get enough UVA and UVB from the setup I see even if you have 10% UVB 26W globe.
I strongly recommend upgrading to a t5ho 12%UVB tube in reflector hood mounted UNDER the mesh lid.

Tank temperatures ?
at basking spot.
in warm zone.
in cool zone.
show us what you are using to measure these.
The dial analog and strip thermometer I can see are rubbish - I'd ditch them.

Diet and feeding schedule ?

I also see a very bad choice of substrate - you need to get rid of the stuff I see and replace it with paper towels for now . The stuff you have is a serious impaction risk for your hatchling.
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
Krystencastillo9807":o6eqaie4 said:
Hi so I’m pretty new at bearded dragons and I did a lot of research and I finally got one yesterday. The one that I got is very small maybe only 4 or 5 inches and in the store he seemed very active and the owner let me handle and feed him and he seemed to be doing great. However now at home he does not move hardly ever he barely ever even opens his eyes. He seems extremely lethargic.
<<< may be too hot or too cold .
Please double check your temperatures (all of them using a good digital thermometer) .



I tried giving him some fruits and vegetables and he had no interest and then I tried introducing some small crickets like what they had me do in the store and he had a small interest in them but didn’t end up actually going for any crickets. So he hasn’t eaten or drank anything.
<<< he needs live insects at least twice per day (as many as you can get him to eat per session).

I'd be giving him insects chosen from

Housefly maggots - very good staple feeder for small hatchlings (don't need to be dusted or gutloaded)
Blowfly maggots - see above
white instar blacksoldier fly lavae - see above
small silkworms ( about 1" long ) see above - best fed using silkworm chow or fresh mulberry leaves.

1/4 to 1/3 size crickets (need to be gutloaded and dusted daily)
similar sized roaches (see above)
similar sized locusts (see above)

If he shows no interest in the fruit and salad at this stage , no big deal , he needs insect protein and lots of it when this young.



One time I moved him and he climbed into his water bowl and pooped and then stopped moving again so I’m just a bit worried. He’s in a 20 gallon tank with the cold side sitting at about 80 degrees and the warm side
<<< good air temperature for COOL ZONE.
between 95-100 degrees
<<< good air temperature for WARM ZONE & BASKING SPOT
and I’m struggling to get it any higher than that[/color]. He has a 75 watt basking bulb and a 13 watt UVB
<<< is worthless , especially since it's a bad brand.
High output bulb both are what the tank he’s in came with.
The humidity level is about 35-40%
<< is fine
and I have the carpet as a substrate
<< I'd replace with paper toweling
along without some fake plants and hiding places and a basking rock. I tried feeding live small crickets,
dried bearded dragon food pellets
<<< give the pellets to the insects to feed them
, and moist pellets,
<<< ditch the moist pellets , they are not a good food for any lizard.
and fruits and vegetables and he has no interest. I’m just worried I may be doing something wrong? He is very small and I don’t wanna risk loosing him
 

KarrieRee

BD.org Sicko
Beardie name(s)
Hiccup he is 6 and Blaze is 4
Yes I agree please do what KingofKnobbies recommends --- his main diet is bugs so I would get rid of the substrate and replace w/ either paper towels for now - your gonna want to upgrade to a bigger tank like a 75 gallon or 120 gallon - you can go to a 40 gallon breeder tank but your little one is gonna end up out growing that one too -- so w/ that being said eventually you can go w / a textured non adhesive shelf liner --- it is cheap and bugs cannot get under it --- can be purchased from Home Depot Lowes or your local hardware store- he will need a bigger tank by the time hes a year if not sooner- the tank set up is why your having all the issues w/ this dragon-- he will not be healthy until you get his lighting in order -- the lighting plays a huge role in his over all health-- please invest in a digital probe thermometer and a infrared heat gun that can be purchased at Home Depot Lowes or Walmart-- for like $10-- that is the most accurate way to get your temps-- the digital probe can go on the cool side but you need to change out the UVB and get rid of the coil--- the UVB needs to be 8-10 inches for a Reptison 10.0 long tube NO COIL T 8 --- 10-11 inches for a T 5 bulb -- the Reptison is a good bulb and is recommended on this forum by most -- the All Living things brand is not a good brand -- please if you need more help please ask we can help you and your little one- you will see a difference in his behavior once you get things changed out
Karrie
 

Krystencastillo9807

Member
Original Poster
I’m extremely worried now I went out and bought 2 new lights by Exo Terra and the temperature is about 106 now and he was sitting there for a while. The humidity is still 35 but he will not move unless I move him he’s squishy and still will not eat and I’m not sure what to do it seems he’s just getting worse
104576-3388648438.jpg
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
He urgently needs a vet to check him out, I'd tell the receptionist you are on your way with a young critically ill bearded dragon , don't let them put you off, I think time is of the essence.
 

KarrieRee

BD.org Sicko
Beardie name(s)
Hiccup he is 6 and Blaze is 4
I agree------------ get him in and see what is going on--------
Karrie
 

Krystencastillo9807

Member
Original Poster
104576-5777685014.jpg
Last night I was unable to get him to the vet so I tried soaking him in warm water for just a little while and I blended some of his protein fruits and veggies in water and he ate some through a syringe. This morning he seems a little better he’s finally keeping his head up again however I still can’t get him to eat. I tried very small crickets, waxworms, and calci worms. He had some interest in the calci worms but it looked like he tried to take a bite and then stopped. Also with my new lighting I got the 160 w Exo Terra solar glow all in one bulb the tank temp is at 85 on the cool side and about 105 on the basking part. His humidity is 35-40%
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
Hope he makes it, please make sure he is seen by a reptile vet , this is very urgent , a little hatchling has zero reserves .

If the hatchling taking any liquid when you drip a few drops of water on his snout ?

if he is this will make it easier to get him to take liquid food substitutes like those I list below , he'll like the taste of the liquid food substitutes and will lick them off his snout or side lips of his own accord , and you wont need to resort to forced feeding or even using a feeding / crop needle to get food into his stomach.

If the local pet shop is still open buy a 1 ml syringe and a nozzle , and a bottle of VetaFarm HerpaBoost or VetaFarm Crittacare Reptile OR EQUIVALENT ( Oxbow Carnivore Critical Care is very good ).
Info :
https://vetafarm.com.au/product/herpaboost/
https://www.vetsupply.com.au/supplements/reptiles/vetafarm-reptile-crittacare/p2060.aspx
https://www.oxbowanimalhealth.com/our-products/professional-line/carnivore-care

See this for required kit and tips for giving liquid food substitutes and oral meds to reptiles :
viewtopic.php?f=45&t=232687

These are very potent vitamin and protein fortified liquid food substitutes that are very good , I've used the VETAFARM products with rescued lizards who looked like were very close to being beyond saving who recovered and made almost miraculous comebacks. My latest Fluffy the water skink has become a house pet and has thrived and become ubertame and friendly.

You will need to weigh the dragon , as the daily dosage is determined by body mass - several small feeds is going to be much easier to get into the dragon using a syringe (by mouth) and will not be as hard for it's potentially compromised kidneys to handle.

Have you tried hand feeding him ?

see this viewtopic.php?f=18&t=235583

A technique I use with crickets as a feeder is as follows :
1) select a few gut loaded dusted crickets, place in a small tub with a lid
2) take 2 out , squash their heads , this disables them , take hold of the cricket by the longest (jumping legs) and gently place the squashed head-end against the lips of the dragon (side of mouth near nostrils (the smell is get starter) , often a hungry lizard will take the cricket (watch out finger tips) , BUT it may need some extra coaxing
3) if it needs extra coaxing , take hold of each of the two long hopping legs, twist , the whole leg (foot + shin + thigh) should come off ( I refer these as cricket drumsticks). I then take one of the drumsticks , and gently force the knee or the thickest end inbetween the lips of the lizard (front side of lips) the taste should be enough for the lizard to take it and start chewing the drumstick ,
4) then - this will take good timing - I position the rest of the cricket (squashed head first against the lizard's lips while it's chewing the drumstick (watch out fingers)

A technique I used when using BSFL is as follows:
1) select some large while or black wriggling BSFL , place in a small sauce dipping dish.
2) take a worm and hold it using your fingers so the head is facing the lizard
3) gently press the pointly (but soft) head of the worm between the middle to back side lips of the lizard, once the lizard bites the worm you will hear an audible pop, and the lizard should do the rest.

Another worm technique I use with BSFL is as follows:
See 1 above
2) take a few worms and snip off the pointly heads (only need to take off 1mm to 2mm)
3) squeeze out some of the worm innards and do 3 above.

Another method for worms I use is as follows :
See 1 and 2 above.
3) squeeze out all the worm meat onto your finger
4) deposit the meat on the lips of the lizard near it's snout, the lizard will lick the nutritious worm meat off and eat it , can be very tedious so I usually do 4 to 6 BSFL at a time so the lizard get a nice big lump of worm meat to eat each time.
5) discard the husks , unlikely the lizard will eat these.
 

Krystencastillo9807

Member
Original Poster
I tried using feeding tings to put the worm in front of him but he lost interest. I left a couple in his bowl and I left him alone for a while to see if maybe he just needs to do it alone but he just stands still. I can try the hand feeding and hopefully it will work thank you
 

Krystencastillo9807

Member
Original Poster
He won’t take to hand feeding he just closes his eyes. I put him on a heating pad for while he’s out of his tank so he wouldn’t get too cold it’s about 109. He refuses to eat anything
 
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What is a quick way to warm up a cold beardie? His heating element went out overnight and now he's very cold.
Pearl Girl wrote on moorelori1966's profile.
i feel so sad reading your about me 😢
Clapton is acclimating okay I think. He's quick as lightning so I'm not sure how much I should bring him out of his house yet. He's not at all interested in his salad though. I wonder if I should change what I'm giving him. Least he's eating his crickets.

Things to do:
Buy calcium powder
Material to raise surface for basking spot
Scenery decals for back of tank
Taking my beardie for a walk

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