Simulate sunrise/sunset with LED's

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Berserk

New member
Hello,

I currently have a 4'x2'x2' vivarium. No BD yet. Still setting up the vivarium.
I would like to be able to simulate a sunrise & sunset using LED's. I bought one from Amazon but I noticed that when it is ramping up/down, it flickers a lot. So this would not work.
I have seen a post from charmander16 that has very good information.
viewtopic.php?f=34&t=235017&hilit=led+dimmer

Just wondering if there are updated information about it.

Thanks!

Current setup:
Dual dome (@least 12" from basking area) on right side with one megaray 70 watts UVB lamp in basking area. This raises the temp to about 39 degrees celcius. The other light is a 50 watts Philips Halogen light. When this turns on, it raises the temp to 50 degrees celcius so I currently have this off. I may need a dimmer for this.

Single dome at center for sunrise/sunset with the LED light that I would like to replace due to flickering at ramp time.

Arcadia T5 D3 Desert UVB (24 Watt) on a sunblaster fixture located center back.

CHE 100 watt and Fan on a inkbird temp controller on the left side
 

CooperDragon

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Unfortunately that thread is the latest discussion I've seen on it. Please feel free to chime in with more info as you get it though! I still simulate sunrise and sunset with my basking halogen bulb using the settings built into my herpstat. It's not always as smooth as I'd like but it does the job. I'd still like a way to increase and decrease the UVB output with a single bulb but that's still probably a ways off in terms of available/affordable tech.
 

JumpinJellyfish

Juvie Member
I'm not sure how it would work in this type of setup, but thought I'd mention anyway, in case it could work for you. In my bird room, I have an LiFX bulb (in a normal lamp) that works with my wifi and an app. It lets me set the "scene"/color, schedule, and transition time, which is how I simulate sunrise/sunset for my birds (they have other lighting on timers, but the smartbulb helps them not be startled by the regular lights coming on/going off. :0)
For my dragon I just have the basking light on before and off after the UVB, but now that you got me thinking...
(Cooperdragon, I tried a thermostat and household timer, but that didn't work properly. I keep meaning to look into the brand you've mentioned).
 

CooperDragon

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
That's an interesting option. It looks like those Lifx bulbs have a nice range of color temps and a good amount of programmability. I do worry about devices like that which require an internet connection though. I'm not sure what kind of information is being transmitted or what kinds of security risks they might pose (if any).
 

JumpinJellyfish

Juvie Member
I haven't had an issue with them. I don't use Alexa or any of the other "listening" devices, although I do have wifi cams as well, which could technically be grouped with those, I suppose. But honestly anyone who hacked my stuff would likely find themselves bored to death. ?
 

Berserk

New member
Original Poster
JumpinJellyfish":pk97hjlz said:
I'm not sure how it would work in this type of setup, but thought I'd mention anyway, in case it could work for you. In my bird room, I have an LiFX bulb (in a normal lamp) that works with my wifi and an app. It lets me set the "scene"/color, schedule, and transition time, which is how I simulate sunrise/sunset for my birds (they have other lighting on timers, but the smartbulb helps them not be startled by the regular lights coming on/going off. :0)
For my dragon I just have the basking light on before and off after the UVB, but now that you got me thinking...
(Cooperdragon, I tried a thermostat and household timer, but that didn't work properly. I keep meaning to look into the brand you've mentioned).

Thanks for the suggestion...does the LiFX provide a good simulation? Does it flicker? When it is ramping up/down, and you try to take a video/pic of it, does it generates some kind of "lines or bands of shadows"?

103226-169672519.jpg
 

JumpinJellyfish

Juvie Member
Thanks for the suggestion...does the LiFX provide a good simulation? Does it flicker? When it is ramping up/down, and you try to take a video/pic of it, does it generates some kind of "lines or bands of shadows"?
It doesn't visibly flicker, but I've never tried to take video or pictures of it. I will try to remember to do that, but in the meantime, see if there are any user videos on their site or on YouTube.
 

chrsschb

Member
CooperDragon":3hzjh9dx said:
That's an interesting option. It looks like those Lifx bulbs have a nice range of color temps and a good amount of programmability. I do worry about devices like that which require an internet connection though. I'm not sure what kind of information is being transmitted or what kinds of security risks they might pose (if any).

The more savvy IT guys would tell you to upgrade your home network to the point where you can establish separate VLANs and separate the IoT and Smart devices. This allows you to limit who/what/when they can communicate and essentially eliminate sending packets "home" (aka the manufacturer).
 

CooperDragon

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
chrsschb":2c9jeq1c said:
CooperDragon":2c9jeq1c said:
That's an interesting option. It looks like those Lifx bulbs have a nice range of color temps and a good amount of programmability. I do worry about devices like that which require an internet connection though. I'm not sure what kind of information is being transmitted or what kinds of security risks they might pose (if any).

The more savvy IT guys would tell you to upgrade your home network to the point where you can establish separate VLANs and separate the IoT and Smart devices. This allows you to limit who/what/when they can communicate and essentially eliminate sending packets "home" (aka the manufacturer).

This is what I do with my webcam. I caught it "dialing home" to a DNS server in China so I shut down the outbound traffic from the camera and only let it communicate with a camera server which then relays the feed outside. It renders the native camera software useless but that's OK.
 
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