Please help I think my beardies are sick!

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CooperDragon

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Try dripping water on his nose using a spoon or the tip of your finger. If he doesn't lick the water there isn't a whole lot else to do short of injections as mentioned. Try to keep him warm and comfortable the best you can.
 

erlabella

Member
Original Poster
erlabella":2aeo69jr said:
EllenD":2aeo69jr said:
Oh I'm so sorry, he really looks like he is bad-off, the black-beard indicates that he's very uncomfortable and in pain...

Do you have an oral syringe or something similar that you can use to try to get some fluids in him? You don't want him to choke, but if you pick him up and he wakes up and is at least alert enough that he's aware of what's going on, they he should be able to take some fluids. This is going to be imperative right now, I don't think he can wait any longer to get to a vet. He needs nutrition and hydration, and you must get it in him by mouth, soaking him will do no good and only stress him more.

I wouldn't wait, as AHBD said, most any vet should be able to give him subcutaneous fluid injections of an electrolyte solution, like Lactate Ringers Solution, and if a vet has at least some experience they should be able to tube feed him nutrition.

I don't know what the issue is, he's gotten no UVB light obviously, but something is very wrong here....has he been pooping normally? When is the last time he pooped? Was it normal looking? Has he been eating? Do you have him in adequate temperature ranges?

I don’t have a syringe, sadly so I won’t be able to help him :( He’s very weak and he’s not alert. He just plays dead and I’m very scared :( He doesn’t even react when I touch his face.

He has been pooping almost daily. His poop (today) was a very dark black-ish liquid poop. He won’t eat anything, even if I force him to. He just spits it back out :( The temperatures in his enclosure are fine. Messi is actually doing fine. I’m afraid Rey won’t make it till tomorrow :(

I’m going to take all of them to the vet to (hopefully) get to know what’s wrong with them, and be able to help them better.
 

PodunkKhaleesi

Hatchling Member
I’d focus on:
1. Keeping him hydrated. As suggested, without a syringe to force fluids into him you’ll want to try dripping water on his snout. If he’s alert enough to recognize what’s happening then he may drink via that method. Sometimes dragons that typically won’t go for standing or dripping water will accept water when they’re sick or dehydrated.
2. I’d keep his cage warm during the night until you can get him to the vet.
3. If you can coax him to eat something that will aid in hydration (veggies with a high water content, a slurry, etc.) then that would be a bonus. I know in his state food may be the last thing on his mind but I’d still give it a try.
4. A reptile vet is ideal, but if you have no access to a herp vet then a normal vet can still do a lot for him, whether it’s blood work tests or administering fluids.
5. Write down everything that occurred up to this point in painstaking detail. You’ll need to give the vet information on his setup (lighting, substrate, temps, UV situation) and diet. If he goes to the bathroom before the vet visit, put it in a Ziploc bag and bring it to the appointment so they can run fecal tests (which can pinpoint issues like coccidia, parasites, etc.).
I hope you’re able to see someone quickly and that this is treatable. Please keep us updated. Wishing you and Rey the best.
 

Drache613

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Hello,

I was wondering if your boy made it through the night, so you could get him to the vets?
He definitely appeared very distressed, so let us know how he is doing.

Tracie
 

erlabella

Member
Original Poster
I just came back from the vet. He didn’t know anything about reptiles so he didn’t do much :(. He told me to just give him vitamins. I’m going back next week when the other vet (that knows more about reptiles) will return. I don’t know if he will be alive by then :(

I gave Rey some water with vitamin drops in (doubled amount) through a syringe (or something like that). I also gave the other two a bit of vitamins.

I moved Rey in to a plastic container with a heat mat and a towel, so he’ll be comfortable. His health hasn’t improved much :( The other two are doing okay though. Messi however has a very big bloated stomach (I think she may have impaction) and she doesn’t poop very often. When she poops she poops very big lumpy poops. I’m still giving her daily baths and baby food and offering her veggies in a bowl. Sometimes I give Ressi baby food and baths, cause I’m not sure what’s wrong with him. Only lack of UV light.

Anyways, thank you so much for helping me <3 you’ve helped me soo much :) I truly appreciate your help :)
 

erlabella

Member
Original Poster
UPDATE:

Rey just pooped and it looked like this:

95806-3683346254.jpg

I could also feel a big lump in the middle of his belly. Right below the chest. Could it be impaction?
 

erlabella

Member
Original Poster
PodunkKhaleesi":g6akyxla said:
Wait...there’s no UV light? ?

Of course there is :) I’ve put him in the cage like this:

95806-9545945525.jpg

(It’s nighttime right now) This is the only way he’ll get UV light. I can’t do anything better right now. Hopefully this will do :) if not, please tell me.

The distance between him and the UV lamp is around 13” to 15”. Will that do?
 

erlabella

Member
Original Poster
After talking to you guys and searching the internet for answers, I think I know what the problem might be.

Ressi:
- inadequate UV light
- poor diet
- dehydration (possibly)

Messi:
- inadequate UV light
- poor diet
- impaction (I’m pretty convinced but not 100% sure)

Rey:
- inadequate UV light
- poor diet
- dehydration (possibly)
- parasites or fungal infection (possibly)
- disease or illness (possibly)



- I’ll order new UV lights from the local pet store next week (if possible) I was thinking Arcadia T5 atleast 10.0, with metal reflectors. Also, I need to raise their basking spot.

- The veggies I give them should be fine (rocket, dandelions (not yearly), butternut squash, zucchini and occasionally something extra. I’m getting live insects next week. Crickets and/or dubia roaches.

- dehydration shouldn’t be a big problem. I’ll just give them more frequently baths and give them water through a syringe (if I have to)

- I’m going to keep giving Messi baby food until she gets better and starts pooping again. If not, I’ll have to take her to the vet (again, I’m going next week)

- There’s not much I can do for Rey right now without a diagnose and medication (if that’s the case) and again, still going to the vet next week. I can only give him vitamins and hope for the best. Does anyone know how often I should give it to him?
 

PodunkKhaleesi

Hatchling Member
Arcadia’s and the T5 Reptisun 10.0 tube lights are the best UV lights you can buy (and most people on this forum would agree that they’re the only UV lights you should buy). So that’s great that you’re upgrading their UV. Many beardie owners notice a significant improvement in their lizards after ditching their weak coil bulbs and getting a quality UV tube. And since you have some time before your next vet appointment you should be able to collect a fecal sample (put it in the fridge if it occurs more than 6 hours before your appointment). They can test for parasites, many of which are easily treatable with medication. If you now have a syringe you can feed Rey slurries (many members recommend the Critical Care product for beardies that are very ill). If you suspect impaction in one of your other beardies, warm baths and high liquid veggies (think butternut squash) can help in some instances. But I’d take the other beardie to the vet if you think she’s impacted and she’s stopped eating/not having bowel movements. I’d also focus on feeding insects without hard exoskeletons or that are tougher for beardies to digest (mealworms, superworms). If you can get your hands on some hornworms (and your beardies are old enough for them), these are excellent feeders for increasing hydration, and along with silkworms and Phoenix worms, their soft bodies are gentle on a beardie’s digestive tract. You sound like you’re on the ball in terms of fixing the husbandry issues and that’s great. Sometimes pet stores (and even some breeders) give beardie newbies horrific advice, and it’s only when their lizard becomes ill do they learn that they had the improper lighting or that sand is a dangerous substrate. If you don’t have a digital temp gun, I’d also add that to your shopping cart, as you’ll never get accurate basking site temps with stick on thermometers. Keep us updated on Rey’s status and any other questions you have. Thinking positive thoughts for your little buddies.
 

erlabella

Member
Original Poster
PodunkKhaleesi":3q60d7b3 said:
Arcadia’s and the T5 Reptisun 10.0 tube lights are the best UV lights you can buy (and most people on this forum would agree that they’re the only UV lights you should buy). So that’s great that you’re upgrading their UV. Many beardie owners notice a significant improvement in their lizards after ditching their weak coil bulbs and getting a quality UV tube. And since you have some time before your next vet appointment you should be able to collect a fecal sample (put it in the fridge if it occurs more than 6 hours before your appointment). They can test for parasites, many of which are easily treatable with medication. If you now have a syringe you can feed Rey slurries (many members recommend the Critical Care product for beardies that are very ill). If you suspect impaction in one of your other beardies, warm baths and high liquid veggies (think butternut squash) can help in some instances. But I’d take the other beardie to the vet if you think she’s impacted and she’s stopped eating/not having bowel movements. I’d also focus on feeding insects without hard exoskeletons or that are tougher for beardies to digest (mealworms, superworms). If you can get your hands on some hornworms (and your beardies are old enough for them), these are excellent feeders for increasing hydration, and along with silkworms and Phoenix worms, their soft bodies are gentle on a beardie’s digestive tract. You sound like you’re on the ball in terms of fixing the husbandry issues and that’s great. Sometimes pet stores (and even some breeders) give beardie newbies horrific advice, and it’s only when their lizard becomes ill do they learn that they had the improper lighting or that sand is a dangerous substrate. If you don’t have a digital temp gun, I’d also add that to your shopping cart, as you’ll never get accurate basking site temps with stick on thermometers. Keep us updated on Rey’s status and any other questions you have. Thinking positive thoughts for your little buddies.

I’ll definitely try to give him slurry. Do you have a recipe or something? What about crickets and dubia roaches as feeder insects?
 

PodunkKhaleesi

Hatchling Member
Flukers Reptaid for Insectivores is a good choice if you’re near a pet store and comes in powder form, so you can whip up small amounts as needed. When dehydration is a concern, Pedialyte can be added to the Reptaid or given by itself to hydrate and replenish electrolytes. Another slurry option is butternut squash baby food because it’s a staple veggie for beardies and most like the flavor (you may not have to syringe feed. With some, you can simply drip it on their nose and they’ll happily lick it off). You can add a small amount of liquid calcium to your slurries as well. So ideally, your slurry could contain the following:
*Reptaid
*Pedialyte
*butternut squash baby food
*liquid calcium
OPTIONAL:
*alfalfa powder (good source of protein)
*chicken baby food (if the beardie hasn’t been eating insects for a while you can use this temporarily to ensure he gets protein. So this is a short-term/limited ingredient).
*mashed insects. If you have a mortar and pestle you can mash up (ideally soft-bodied) insects and add them to the slurry for protein. This is a very unsavory process, but it works.

A slurry can contain whatever you want it to, but some choices are better than others. Avoid foods with added sugar or dairy. And when you insert the syringe place it gently in the corner of the mouth between his lips. This is the easiest method to get his mouth to open long enough to administer some of the slurry.
 

erlabella

Member
Original Poster
PodunkKhaleesi":3g7c3l51 said:
Flukers Reptaid for Insectivores is a good choice if you’re near a pet store and comes in powder form, so you can whip up small amounts as needed. When dehydration is a concern, Pedialyte can be added to the Reptaid or given by itself to hydrate and replenish electrolytes. Another slurry option is butternut squash baby food because it’s a staple veggie for beardies and most like the flavor (you may not have to syringe feed. With some, you can simply drip it on their nose and they’ll happily lick it off). You can add a small amount of liquid calcium to your slurries as well. So ideally, your slurry could contain the following:
*Reptaid
*Pedialyte
*butternut squash baby food
*liquid calcium
OPTIONAL:
*alfalfa powder (good source of protein)
*chicken baby food (if the beardie hasn’t been eating insects for a while you can use this temporarily to ensure he gets protein. So this is a short-term/limited ingredient).
*mashed insects. If you have a mortar and pestle you can mash up (ideally soft-bodied) insects and add them to the slurry for protein. This is a very unsavory process, but it works.

A slurry can contain whatever you want it to, but some choices are better than others. Avoid foods with added sugar or dairy. And when you insert the syringe place it gently in the corner of the mouth between his lips. This is the easiest method to get his mouth to open long enough to administer some of the slurry.

I don’t think I can get Reptaid and Pedialyte in the pet store :( would butternut squash baby food, liquid calcium and liquid vitamins be enough? I could also add some chicken baby food occasionally. I do have liquid calcium at home at the moment but it’s expired. Is it still useful? Also, how much calcium and vitamins should I add? How often should I feed him?
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
erlabella":1ht03oce said:
EllenD":1ht03oce said:
Their tanks actually look very nice and well constructed. If you buy a T5 strength UVb tube and it is mounted at the top of these enclosures in a long tube fixture, it should be okay as long as they can get up onto those basking platforms. However, PLEASE MAKE SURE THAT WHATEVER TUBE FIXTURES YOU ARE USING THE UVB TUBES IN HAVE METAL REFLECTORS INSIDE THEM, THAT SIT BEHIND THE CHAMBER WHERE THE THE UVB TUBES SIT. This is imperative for large enclosures, as it's the only way to get proper UVB light throughout the enclosure.

I don't know why this seller is listing different wattages for different length tubes. The length of the UVB tubes does no effect the wattage at all. For example, the genuine Arcadia UVB tubes, the 12% or the 14% are both T5 strength UVB tubes. (The 12% and the 14% designate the percentage of UVB light emitted from the tube, anything over 10% is adequate for Bearded Dragons, like the Reptisun 10.0 is a 10% UVB light). However, the wattage is effected by the strength, not the length. So the Arcadia 14% UVb tube come in 18", 24", 36", and 48" lengths, but they are all the same wattages. That's why I'm not trusting this eBay seller at all. Most likely is selling cheap, Chinese made knock-offs, as that doesn't look to me like the official Arcadia logo either, which is a definite red flag.

You cannot trust eBay, and I would not purchase any of these UVB tubes at all. I just noticed the "Arcadia" logo being weird, and that combined with the lengths and wattages is telling me this is a total rip-off and a waste of your money. I know you're in the UK (I think) which is where Arcadia lights are made...can you purchase from Amazon.com? I honestly don't know if the UK has a version of Amazon.com, but if you do, that would be your best bet for both price and genuine product, as Amazon.com is legitimate always, eBay is full of cheap knock-offs of everything.

If you cannot purchase from Amazon, maybe someone else on here that is in the UK can tell you the best place to order genuine Arcadia UVB tubes from, or the best place to buy them in-store, as you're lucky, they are sold all over the UK in stores. (We cannot usually buy them in the US unless we order them from Amazon or a UK site, which takes forever for shipping). They are definitely the most commonly used UVB tubes for owners on this board that live in the UK, so wait for someone else from the UK to comment on this before ordering anything from eBay, as I'm 99% sure that the eBay seller you're looking at is a ripoff.

Thanks for telling me that. I would probably have bought it as it looks fine. I am not from the UK but i would be able to order online from there. I could also order from the local pet store and ask for Reptisun or Arcadia light tubes. I cannot order from amazon since tey don’t ship to my country (however if they did it would be very expensive, which I won’t be able to afford :( )

Try Birmingham Reptiles (UK), they are perfectly happy to ship Arcadia products , I'm in Australia and I sourced my Arcadia t5ho Slimline kits which happened to include Arcadia 12%UVB t5ho tubes.
Actually worked out cheaper for me to buy from them than the local Arcadia reseller who didn't even have the lights and fittings I wanted and was less than interested in ordering in for me.
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
I saw your picture of you dragon, I think he needs to be seen by a REPTILE VET if at all possible (hopefully as a home visit as he looks too frail to handle the stress of travelling).
 
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