Tail rot? Or am I a worrier...?

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I have a baby bearded dragon (two months old). I have been going back and forth on thinking he has tail rot... I have searched and some people say dragons have a dark end on their tail and crooks sometimes but I just want to ask. Nothing has happened to him (like his tail getting caught anywhere).Only a few times has it looked really dark/black. He just shed so that could have been part of why I have been worried about its color and going back and forth. It doesn't seem to have gotten bigger/longer up his tail. Last image was taken a few days ago after he shed most of his back. I don't want to hear about what the temp says, I had just put him back after his lid had been open. I also had been waiting to give him a new carpet until he had most of his shed off.

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AHBD

BD.org Sicko
Hi there, that's not tail rot but it looks like there was just a very slight trauma [ possibly a light bite ] before you got him. Just watch that it doesn't get thin + crispy looking with a dark color. Other than that it looks O.K. :)
 

QueenHaydees

Member
Original Poster
AHBD":3rk5of18 said:
Hi there, that's not tail rot but it looks like there was just a very slight trauma [ possibly a light bite ] before you got him. Just watch that it doesn't get thin + crispy looking with a dark color. Other than that it looks O.K. :)


Thank you!!
 

QueenHaydees

Member
Original Poster
EllenD":1sdd63zu said:
Not tail rot, but are you sure he's 2 months old? He looks very tiny...

Thank you! I got him a month ago and the breeder I got him from said her bunch was a month old. He's grown a ton since then. If I knew how to post pictures from my phone I would put a comparison on for you!
 

EllenD

Gray-bearded Member
OK, I didn't realize the photos weren't current, I'm sorry! Yes, he looks about 2 months, and I have to say, he's one of the cutest baby beardies I've ever seen! Honestly...LOOK AT THAT LITTLE FACE! He's adorable! He looks very bright and healthy, just be sure to check the 3 temperature zones inside his enclosure once a week with a digital probe thermometer or a temperature gun (basking spot, hot side ambient, and cool side ambient) and make sure they are within the correct ranges (Basking Spot: between 105-110 degrees, 110 degrees is the absolute maximum for his enclosure!, Hot Side Ambient: between 88-93, and Cool Side Ambient: between 75-80 maximum), make sure he has no light on at all at night to disrupt his sleep and make sure his enclosure temperature naturally drops well below his daytime temperatures just like it does in the desert (down to 60-65 degrees is fine and if his enclosure stays at 60 or above, which most houses stay above at night, he then needs no nighttime heat source and will be very comfortable while he sleeps). I'd spend $10 at Petco or PetSmart on a digital thermometer with an actual probe on a wire if you don't have one already, it makes taking his basking spot temperature much more accurate and easy.

In addition to keeping his temperature gradient within the correct ranges, which will ensure proper food digestion, be sure that your Reptisun 10.0 T8 UVB tube is always mounted INSIDE the enclosure and UNDER THE MESH LID, that it stays mounted within 6-8" of his main basking spot and is completely unobstructed, and that you be sure to REPLACE THE 10.0 T8 TUBE ONCE EVERY 6 MONTHS AT THE LONGEST, LIKE CLOCKWORK!!! You've got one of the best UVB lights available for a bearded dragon if it's correctly mounted within the close distance to him and unobstructed by anything like a lid, but the T8 does stop emitting any UVB light by 6 months old if it's turned on for an average of 14 hours a day (also, be sure his basking light and the UVB tube are both on for a minimum of 14 hours every single day, any shorter of a photoperiod can result in MBD, a weakened appetite, nutrition absorbtion issues, etc.).

If you ever want to spend a little extra money and upgrade your UVB light, I highly recommend the Reptisun 10.0 (never 5.0!) T5 High-Output UVB tube and matching fixture (you cannot put the 10.0 T5HO UVB tube in the flourescent fixture you have your T8 UVB tube in unless it happens to be rated for a T5 tube that is 24 watts). The advantages of upgrading to the 10.0 T5HO UVB tube are great, and basically make your life easier, save you money, and give your beardie maximum UVB exposure. The T5HO tube only needs replaced once a year, it emits strong enough UVB light to penetrate a mesh lid so it can rest on top of the lid rather than having to be mounted underneath the mesh lid like the T8 tube does (never on a glass or clear plastic lid, no UVB light penetrates any glass or clear plastic, like a window blocks all UVB light, so sitting your beardie inside a window will get him heat but no UVB light at all, just an FYI). Also, the T5HO is effective as long as it's within 11" of his main basking spot, so you have a little more room to play around with. Also, for whatever reason and I don't know why, the Reptisun 10.0 T5HO UVB tubes have a higher retail price than the 10.0 T8 tubes do, but the T5HO tubes can be purchased online for much less than the T8 tubes. It makes no sense, but I'm not complaining. I buy mine on Amazon.com, and a 22" 10.0 T5HO costs me around $23, where an 18" 10.0 T8 tube is around $27 (by the way, the T5HO tubes are odd lengths, the tubes go 16", 22", 34", 46", but they fit into the normal length flourescent tube fixtures. So a 16" 10.0 T5HO UVB tube fits into an 18" fixture, the 22" tube fits into a 24" fixture, etc.). The only pain is buying a T5 rated fixture at first, but on Amazon they offer a package deal where a 22" 10.0 T5HO UVB tube costs $23 and the 24" T5 rated fixture is $20, so around $43 to upgrade. I'm only telling you this because it's a good investment that saves you money in the long run, and it's one of the best UVB lights available for a bearded dragon, and since you're just starting out I always try to pass along any little tips I can...

That's about it, you're starting off very well, he looks happy and healthy, his enclosure is awesome, good lighting set up correctly from the start, good diet...Oh, be sure to dust all of his live feeders in Calcium every day for the first 6-8 months of his life, and add a multivitamin 4 days a week up until 6-8 months. It's important he gets Calcium every day while he's growing. Then you can scale it back to 5 days a week for the Calcium and 3 days a week for the multivitamin at 8 months. Other than that, ask any questions you may have, and good luck!
 

AHBD

BD.org Sicko
To clear up any confusion [ O.P. correct me if I'm wrong ] The first bunch of pics ARE current, showing the tail in question. :)

The last 2 pics side by side show the baby when Queen first got it, the pic on the left as a 1 month baby when she got it [ looks like a 1-2 week old there, but O.P. will have to go with what the breeder said ] ,the pic on the right is also current.
 

QueenHaydees

Member
Original Poster
EllenD":2grvgbbl said:
OK, I didn't realize the photos weren't current, I'm sorry! Yes, he looks about 2 months, and I have to say, he's one of the cutest baby beardies I've ever seen! Honestly...LOOK AT THAT LITTLE FACE! He's adorable! He looks very bright and healthy, just be sure to check the 3 temperature zones inside his enclosure once a week with a digital probe thermometer or a temperature gun (basking spot, hot side ambient, and cool side ambient) and make sure they are within the correct ranges (Basking Spot: between 105-110 degrees, 110 degrees is the absolute maximum for his enclosure!, Hot Side Ambient: between 88-93, and Cool Side Ambient: between 75-80 maximum), make sure he has no light on at all at night to disrupt his sleep and make sure his enclosure temperature naturally drops well below his daytime temperatures just like it does in the desert (down to 60-65 degrees is fine and if his enclosure stays at 60 or above, which most houses stay above at night, he then needs no nighttime heat source and will be very comfortable while he sleeps). I'd spend $10 at Petco or PetSmart on a digital thermometer with an actual probe on a wire if you don't have one already, it makes taking his basking spot temperature much more accurate and easy.

In addition to keeping his temperature gradient within the correct ranges, which will ensure proper food digestion, be sure that your Reptisun 10.0 T8 UVB tube is always mounted INSIDE the enclosure and UNDER THE MESH LID, that it stays mounted within 6-8" of his main basking spot and is completely unobstructed, and that you be sure to REPLACE THE 10.0 T8 TUBE ONCE EVERY 6 MONTHS AT THE LONGEST, LIKE CLOCKWORK!!! You've got one of the best UVB lights available for a bearded dragon if it's correctly mounted within the close distance to him and unobstructed by anything like a lid, but the T8 does stop emitting any UVB light by 6 months old if it's turned on for an average of 14 hours a day (also, be sure his basking light and the UVB tube are both on for a minimum of 14 hours every single day, any shorter of a photoperiod can result in MBD, a weakened appetite, nutrition absorbtion issues, etc.).

If you ever want to spend a little extra money and upgrade your UVB light, I highly recommend the Reptisun 10.0 (never 5.0!) T5 High-Output UVB tube and matching fixture (you cannot put the 10.0 T5HO UVB tube in the flourescent fixture you have your T8 UVB tube in unless it happens to be rated for a T5 tube that is 24 watts). The advantages of upgrading to the 10.0 T5HO UVB tube are great, and basically make your life easier, save you money, and give your beardie maximum UVB exposure. The T5HO tube only needs replaced once a year, it emits strong enough UVB light to penetrate a mesh lid so it can rest on top of the lid rather than having to be mounted underneath the mesh lid like the T8 tube does (never on a glass or clear plastic lid, no UVB light penetrates any glass or clear plastic, like a window blocks all UVB light, so sitting your beardie inside a window will get him heat but no UVB light at all, just an FYI). Also, the T5HO is effective as long as it's within 11" of his main basking spot, so you have a little more room to play around with. Also, for whatever reason and I don't know why, the Reptisun 10.0 T5HO UVB tubes have a higher retail price than the 10.0 T8 tubes do, but the T5HO tubes can be purchased online for much less than the T8 tubes. It makes no sense, but I'm not complaining. I buy mine on Amazon.com, and a 22" 10.0 T5HO costs me around $23, where an 18" 10.0 T8 tube is around $27 (by the way, the T5HO tubes are odd lengths, the tubes go 16", 22", 34", 46", but they fit into the normal length flourescent tube fixtures. So a 16" 10.0 T5HO UVB tube fits into an 18" fixture, the 22" tube fits into a 24" fixture, etc.). The only pain is buying a T5 rated fixture at first, but on Amazon they offer a package deal where a 22" 10.0 T5HO UVB tube costs $23 and the 24" T5 rated fixture is $20, so around $43 to upgrade. I'm only telling you this because it's a good investment that saves you money in the long run, and it's one of the best UVB lights available for a bearded dragon, and since you're just starting out I always try to pass along any little tips I can...

That's about it, you're starting off very well, he looks happy and healthy, his enclosure is awesome, good lighting set up correctly from the start, good diet...Oh, be sure to dust all of his live feeders in Calcium every day for the first 6-8 months of his life, and add a multivitamin 4 days a week up until 6-8 months. It's important he gets Calcium every day while he's growing. Then you can scale it back to 5 days a week for the Calcium and 3 days a week for the multivitamin at 8 months. Other than that, ask any questions you may have, and good luck!


When I saw him I knew I had to have him! He kinda had a bobble head out of all the others haha. Thanks for all the info!!! Makes me feel better about what I am doing!! Off topic from the tail but you have a lot of good info so I figure I can ask... I think he could be mostly blind in one eye... he doesn't seem to register when I wave a bug on that side and only looks at me with the "good" eye. His "bad" eye seems to have a more square shaped pupil... As hes growing I have noticed the good eye growing to what I think would be normal but the other seems to be staying sunk in. Doesn't seem to bother him any but I'm curious. The pic from the back shows the difference in each eye as in the good one is raised up more and the other not so much. Hard to get a good picture of the bad eye because he wont really ever look at me with it.
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QueenHaydees

Member
Original Poster
AHBD":254d2ggs said:
To clear up any confusion [ O.P. correct me if I'm wrong ] The first bunch of pics ARE current, showing the tail in question. :)

The last 2 pics side by side show the baby when Queen first got it, the pic on the left as a 1 month baby when she got it [ looks like a 1-2 week old there, but O.P. will have to go with what the breeder said ] ,the pic on the right is also current.

The pics were a bit scattered over the past month, mostly pretty current though. He was so tiny!!! I cant believe how much hes already grown!
 

QueenHaydees

Member
Original Poster
CooperDragon":2h3yit3v said:
EllenD":2h3yit3v said:
LOOK AT THAT LITTLE FACE! He's adorable!

This was my first thought too!

Thank you guys!!! I could stare at him all day haha. Do you guys have any guesses on what type he is? The breeder didn't tell me when I got him :( and I am a new dragon owner so I didn't even think to ask!
 

EllenD

Gray-bearded Member
It's possible he got a scratch on his eye at the pet shop from a tankmate, that's pretty common... Remember that they cannot see directly in front of them at all, only from the side, so sometimes it does look like they can't see what you're showing them because they really can't see it. You could try putting just plain saline eyewash or eyedrops in the eye twice a day and see if it clears, but in general it looks normal in the photo. Sometimes a scratch will take a while to heal, sometimes their last shed around their eyes can also cause issues, but you're lighting is good, and there's no blood or pus...

Just watch it, if at any point it swells up, seeps anything like blood or pus, or he starts to keep it shut, then he needs to get it looked at by an experienced reptile vet.
 
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