A few questions

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A few questions

Postby Neonprint » Wed Aug 16, 2017 9:29 pm

Hello,
I have a few questions about some husbandry.
1st: of all, I want to put together a beardie first aid kit( or a general reptile first aid kit that can be used for multiple species?), what are some essential items to have on hand.

2nd: supplements-what are some must have supplements other than calcium and vitamins. Like probiotics or health boosts type items, or even foods that provide things that help like immune system. along with that question is it better to have a separate calcium sup and vitamin sup or can you use a combo all in one type.

3rd: hydration, I regularly give my bearded dragon water and he drink its, but if he doesnt drink alot but you soak him on a regular basis, is it still keeping him hydrated or does he need to physically drink water. (stupid I know but im curious)

4th: Not husbandry related - I really want to make my own fake rock background thing with cool caves and places to bask etc. but in regards to feeding because there are so many nooks and crannies, would you take him out and feed him separately? mainly aimed at those who do have a custom tank etc.

5th: preventative care- what are things that you can do/feed to help prevent parasitic outbreaks and sickness. Like with horses for example you can de-worm them on a regular basis even if they dont have worms, or like dogs when you give them the heart worm preventative.

6th: enrichment-I know bearded dragons are super intelligent and they really do recognize there owners etc. what are things I can do that will help keep him from getting bored. are there any like bearded dragon toys, other than just taking him out and letting him roam around. also along those lines what are your opinions on bringing your dragon out and about into stores etc.
Neonprint
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Re: A few questions

Postby CaramelBeet » Thu Aug 17, 2017 2:51 am

1: There are some things that are good to have on hand for your beardie. A good place to start might be:
-Manuka honey
-F10 or similar disinfectant
-Olive oil
-Baby food with greens/squash
-Spare bulbs for your lights

2: Calcium and vitamins are the only necessary ones. Probiotics and whatnot are really only necessary in certain circumstances (like if they've just had a course of strong antibiotics). A two-in-one works fine as long as it's suitable (like Repashy Calcium plus).

3: Beardies are native to Australian deserts, so they don't actually need to drink much. Most of their hydration comes from bugs and salad. Offering some water with an eyedropper is good, but it's ok if he doesn't drink (as long as he's not showing signs of dehydration). Bathing won't hydrate him unless he actually drinks the water.

4: Some people (myself included) have a separate feeding tub or feeding area, which works fine as long as your beardie will eat there. You can also feed insects which can be contained in a bowl for some meals inside the tank (like BSFL).

5: Don't deworm your horses if they don't have worms, that's a leading cause of resistance and is making some of us have to use the likes of moxidectin (kills the worms, but very easy to overdose them on! :shock: ). Get a fecal egg count done if you're not sure. the only real exception is if they haven't been wormed in a while and you're worried about encysted small strongyles (won't show up on a count).
There's not really an equivalent parasite care for beardies. The best thing to do is maintain good hygiene, disinfect everything regularly, remove any poop quickly etc. You can also have a fecal test done on your beardie, and if he has lots of parasites then you can get a treatment from the vet (preferably an experienced herp vet).

6: You can let him roam around, and take him outside (make sure you have him firmly though! Either hold him securely, use a harness or make him an outside area). I can't say I've heard of bearded dragon toys, but someone else might have (it wouldn't surprise me).
Honestly, I'd never be game to take mine to a shop (or anywhere; he's little and like to rocket off without warning). A more experienced member might be able to give advice there.

There's my 2 cents :lol:
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Re: A few questions

Postby EllenD » Thu Aug 17, 2017 2:46 pm

#1.) I always keep: Betadine antiseptic or Hibiclens Antiseptic, Triple Antibiotic Ointment, Activated Charcoal (Incase they eat something toxic or poisonous), Saline Eyewash or Saline Eyedrops, Liquid Calcium (Calcivet), Cornstarch and/or Qwik-Stop (to stop bleeding)

#2.) Always Calcium and Multivitamins obviously, and yes you can give an all-in-one if it's a quality one, like Repashy Calcium Plus... However, you should always have Calcium with D3 and Calcium without D3 available, because if you're using a quality UVB light you don't need to give Calcium with D3 but once a week...I'm a huge believer in probiotics if they are on any medications, if their appetite has lessened, or if they are continually having trouble pooping. They are a situational supplement.

#3.) They should be getting all their hydration from their live feeder insects and fresh greens and veggies, so no water bowl or baths are necessary unless they get dirty. They absolutely do not absorb hydration while soaking in a bath, only if they drink the water. You can drip water on his snout once daily, if he licks it off then great, if not don't worry if you're feeding him correctly

#4.) I have custom enclosures and some custom decor made from polystyrene with layers of grout and Mod Podge. Honestly, this is completely up to you, but if you feed him inside the enclosure then you're most likely going to have to clean it a lot more often, daily if he gets veggies, greens, and insect parts everywhere. So it all depends on how good you are about disinfecting the enclosure. Obviously you don't want to leave veggies and greens (and poop) under hot lights to rot and cause bacterial and fungal growth.

#5.) The best preventative care you can do is to find an experienced reptile vet (not an "exotics" vet or a general vet) and have a yearly or bi-yearly Wellness Exam that includes a fecal test, a yearly x-ray to check bone density, and at least at the first Wellness Exam blood work to establish baseline levels while the beardie is well, as a comparison when it's sick. I have blood work, an x-ray, and a fecal done yearly plus a physical exam for $300 with an experienced, certified reptile vet.

#6.) I have a harness and leash for each of my beardies, and I try to take them outside whenever I can. I take them to Petco, Home Depot, Lowes, Tractor Supply, anywhere they allow animals inside. Some beardies like it, some don't, and you must respect that. It's normal for cars, people, birds, etc. to scare them a while at first,but if it scares your beardie continually and he doesn't seem to grow to like being outside or inside stores, then don't take him, it's just stressing him. I let my 3 out of their enclosures every single day, they watch TV, lay on the couch with me, roam around, they live to be curious and roam about... ALWAYS HAVE THEM ON A HARNESS AND LEASH ANY TIME YOU HAVE THEM OUTSIDE THE HOUSE. PERIOD. THEY TAKE OFF LIKE JETS!
"Dance like nobody's watching..."
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