Juvenile beardie temperature and handling

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I have a juvenile bearded dragon that I got from the pet store about 2-3 weeks ago in a 40 gallon tank. I know the basking area should be around 100F and I have the proper basking lamp (according to the woman from the pet store); However, the thermometers in my tank on both sides of the tank say that they are the same temperature (~85F). I this okay? Does anyone have any suggestions of what I should do if this is not okay? Also, my beardie is a juvenile and I have been told to handle him/her a lot as a juvenile because if I do not he/she may become aggressive when it gets older. Is this true? I am afraid to handle him/her too much because when I play with it it seems to breathe very heavy and I do not want to shock it. Any suggestions of what I should do? How do beardies most like to be handled? Anything helps. Thank you!
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
are the thermometers strips or dial type thermometers - if so you can not rely on the temperature readings .'

I suggest obtaining a few of these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LCD-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature-Fridge-Freezer-Aquarium-Fish-Tank-Reptile/122414870803?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140107090050%26meid%3D47dcbe8ebdec4e42b26c05453aaed1c0%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D391259141696 and you can dangle their probes so they are in strategic spots in the viv.

A 40Gal viv is going to be exceedingly difficult to get a good thermal gradient in , all bar impossible if it is an open topped tank (mesh / wire screen top) as air warmed by the basking globe will simply rise and excape immediately, the only gradient will radiant heat which will be less the further you are from the globe.
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
ejuncker16":38u1fca3 said:
I have a juvenile bearded dragon that I got from the pet store about 2-3 weeks ago in a 40 gallon tank. I know the basking area should be around 100F and I have the proper basking lamp (according to the woman from the pet store); However, the thermometers in my tank on both sides of the tank say that they are the same temperature (~85F). I this okay? Does anyone have any suggestions of what I should do if this is not okay? Also, my beardie is a juvenile and I have been told to handle him/her a lot as a juvenile because if I do not he/she may become aggressive when it gets older. Is this true? <<<< Petshop employee knows nothing, it's is perfectly OK to handle the little beardie if it seems relaxed when you pet it and doesn't try to run away from your hand.
some hatchlings are very tame and relaxed with handling , even enjoy the human body warmth , affection comes later after you gain it's trust and form a tight bond with it.
others if they haven't been handled much or have never had a good experience with humans will be very scared and skittish (but you can gain their trust with a little kindness , patience and some yummy food bribes.
The main point is if the little beardie backs off , take the hint and give it the space it wants. in this case , DO NOT CHASE IT or GRAB IT FROM BEHIND OR ABOVE ---> one freaked out terrified lizard who has just had his fear of you and the five headed monster / snake reinforced.

Best approach is sit near the viv where the beardie can see you and let it observe you , talk to it calmly so it gets to know your voice.
Let it see you replacing food, giving it the insects to eat, removing poos, they are smart and will soon recognize you as "their human" , "their bringing of yummy things".
It's OK to offer food treats by hand - essentially, place the open turned hand in the viv where beardie can see it with a tasty wriggly silkworm or blow fly gent or bsf maggot on the palm of the hand, often the beardie will come ambling up and take the food treat almost immediately --- 1st battle has been won , do this everyday
Soon you will be able to handsurf beardie , then place beardie on lap or chest or tummy and give some food treats by hand, I did this will all my gang, my ritual and routine for new hatchlings is the first 2 or 3 crickets per day are handfed to each hatchling, then I returned them to the viv / tub and gave them the rest a few at a time === this works.
I am afraid to handle him/her too much because when I play with it it seems to breathe very heavy and I do not want to shock it. Any suggestions of what I should do? <<<< see above, sounds like he's scared of you at present, so take it in small steps and slow and let him decide when he's ready to have more than minimal necessary handling (ie viv cleaning, bonding via handfeeding for 5 - 10 min per day).
<<< make sure to support his entire body vent to neck
<<< pick times when he's sleepy or relaxed (basking) to pick him up and place him on your chest (quite OK to place them under your shirt on your skin, they soon settle there and pancake (and if it's dark under the shirt (nod off)).
<<< place on tummy / chest facing you , they like to see your eyes.


How do beardies most like to be handled?

Anything helps. Thank you!
here is how I handled my little ones
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9feb2016_TOOTHLESS_at_3months_LOOKING_ABOUT.gif

is likely you bought a shop kit , am I correct ?

If so we need to review your set up thoroughly to diagnose problems and address them.

Are there other pets (cats, dogs ) in the household ?

And details of your feeding schedule and other husbandry aspects .Might be a very easy fix .

Photos of the tank and showing substrate and lighting and of the beardie will help too. Use XIMG button to upload photos from your computer.

How heavy is he ?
...... recommend weighing him regularly (weekly say)?

Can you give us a good rundown on the setup and schedules (light and feeding) :
TEMPERATURES ?
........daytime warm zone
........overnight
........basking spot
........ how are you measuring your temperatures ?
TOO COLD = SLEEPY DRAGON

UVA AND UVB ADEQUATE ?
........is the uv rated AT LEAST 10%UVB ?
........is it a COMPACT (curly globe & WATTAGE ?
or a T8 tube ?
or a T5 tube ?
or an MVB ?
........the brand (not all UVB compacts and tubes are created equal or as well , many shops sell their own brand (Zilla, All Living Things, Reptile-One, Nat Geo , Natural Selections (in green boxes) which are cheap Chinese clones made very cheaply using very poor quality quartz glass and cheap phosphors ==> very poor UV spectrum produced incl UVC band and bad parts of the UVB band)
........is it covered (in a domestic fluorescent light fitting )? == BAD
........is it sitting ontop a mesh top ? == BAD
........how far from basking spot ?
too far and the UVA and UVB WILL BE TOO DILUTE.
UVA FLUX TOO LOW where dragon is ==> a very lethargic dragon w/ a very poor apetite just in the short term ,
and neurological problems if this persists ,
not to mention MVB if UVB flux too low long enough with inadequate metabolisation of dietary calcium or inadequate intake out calcium

TANK
....... size (L x W x H) and construction , photos of the setup are often helpful .

SUBSTRATE ?
........is it sand ? == BAD AND IF CALCISAND this is EXTREMELY BAD/LETHAL when ingested.
........is it particulate ? == BAD

SHARING TANK ? == BAD

TOO SHORT A PHOTOPERIOD (lights are not kept on long enough each day , will make beardie think it is winter , recommend at least 14 HRS PER DAY)

FEEDING SCHEDULE (I recommend at least 2 hrs lights/heat on before first live feed and after last feed of the day)
....... when are you offering live feeder insects ? what are they ? how big are they ?
....... when are you offering greens and other veg ? what are you offering ?

What season is it (there where you live) ?

and

weather can have an impact on your beardie's behavior, so what had the weather been like in the problem period ?
 

ejuncker16

Member
Original Poster
Thank y'all so much for the response it is really going to help me. I realize that the people in the pet stores don't know anything and that is why I have done so much research for months before buying my baby beardie. I also bought a book about bearded dragons and I am currently reading it so I will learn more. I have a light that is on top of my beardies enclosure and I was told to turn on the regular light all night and the red light at night. That is what I have been doing but if I do this do I also need a UV light? I have read a lot online about this and have had many mixed responses but I feel like I can trust the responses on this website more than anywhere else.
 

jayce82

Juvie Member
apparently you haven't done too much research. red light throw it in the trash. you need uvb light and heat lamp in for at least 15 hours a day. any type of light at night disrupts their sleep
 

ejuncker16

Member
Original Poster
There's no reason for you to be condescending. Are you saying that I should leave my lights on all day in the enclosure and have nothing at all at night? I am new to this and I HAVE done my research but clearly you cannot believe everything you read online.
 

jayce82

Juvie Member
there is no need in any light nor heat at night unless it drops below 70* in your house. if it does then get a Che heat emitter
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
ejuncker16":1zhms9yl said:
Thank y'all so much for the response it is really going to help me. I realize that the people in the pet stores don't know anything and that is why I have done so much research for months before buying my baby beardie. I also bought a book about bearded dragons and I am currently reading it so I will learn more. I have a light that is on top of my beardies enclosure and I was told to turn on the regular light all night and the red light at night. <<< very bad advice .... no coloured lights NIGHT OR DAY.

Daytime = 10% UVB (or higher) globe or tube (in a reflector hood mounted UNDER the lid) + colourless incandescent par38 spotglobe or equivalent in a halogen spotglobe (in the dome reflector) for heat and bright light

Night-time = no coloured infrared or nightlights .

If it's colder than 21oCelsius in the tank overnight (especially important for hatchlings and juveniles) then a ceramic heat emitter controlled by a thermostat whos probe is positioned near the bed/hide will be appreciated by the little beardie (I'd aim to keep the viv at about 24oCelsius overnight).

In my subtropical coastal climate (33 degrees South Latitude and only 3 km from the sea as the seagull flies (at night I can often hear the surf breaking on the nearest beaches and rocky headlands) in my airconditioned home (I run the aircon 24/7 in summer and winter and it rearly gets cooler than 23oCelsius in my house) I get away with a 7W heatpad sandwiched between two layers of ceramic tiles which is controlled by a switching thermostat and this is placed under the hide and runs 24/7 , I set it to hold a temperature of 36-37oCelsius for my beardies , and they love it !!!

That is what I have been doing but if I do this do I also need a UV light? I have read a lot online about this and have had many mixed responses but I feel like I can trust the responses on this website more than anywhere else.<<< for bearded dragons a good reptile specific UV light rated at 10% to 14% UVB is mandatory - else your beardie will not thrive / grow or be healthy, please NO SHOP brands, best to stay with quality / expensive brands such as Arcadia, Zoo Med and Exo Terra for your UV light . .
 
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