Vet advice - does this make sense?

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normandcass

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I'm hoping to get some clarification or confirmation here. My beardie, Cass, is a little over 3 years old. For the past few months he has stopped eating (no weight loss though) and doesn't move for days. It doesn't seem like brumation ... he usually brumates Nov-feb and this seems different.

I took him to the vet and they diagnosed with trichiamonas (?) and put him on Flagyl once every two weeks for six weeks. After the course he was still acting the same so I booked an appointment with supposedly the best reptile vet in my area, had to set it almost three weeks in advance. She says his poop is clean, no parasites, they drew blood (waiting on results next week) and his physical exam was perfect - she commented on how "healthy" his weight was. he has put on 20 grams after the Flagyl lol

Anyway...I took in a sheet that had his records with weight, medication, etc. and also put on the temps from that day before I left, measured with a temp gun. It was 99-103 at his basking spot depending on the angle, 92 ambient temp and 82 on the cool side. Nighttime I usually turn off all lights and it is around 75-76 in the enclosure.

She said he is acting different because his metabolism has slowed down due to the temps being too low. she suggested I cover the screen with plexiglass or tin foil everywhere that wasn't occupied by the light to "hold the heat in". She said nighttime temps should not go below 80. I asked her what the day temps should be and she basically gave me the same numbers as what I already have, but said something about the heat escaping and drafts or something. I still don't quite understand

The thing is, if i raise the temps any higher during the day or "trap" the heat in as she suggested, I'm afraid he'll cook. It's already warm enough that he gapes before leaving his basking spot, and I told her that. I got a CHE to raise the nighttime temps. Any thoughts or input on this?
 

MsCarter

Juvie Member
Your temps sound perfect for a 3 year old adult dragon. 95 is a perfect basking temp for him unless he shows you otherwise (some adults prefer slightly warmer temps) a way to tell if it's too cold is if he's always basking and a little dark but never gaping. As far as night temps I wouldn't do all of that. In their natural desert habitat temps are much cooler at night and this is what they are use to. As long as your temps aren't falling below 65 (which they aren't) there is no need for any of that. Besides covering his tank up like that could prevent ventilation which is needed to keep humidity down and provide airflow for the beardie.
The way you already had things were perfect in my honest opinion
 

normandcass

New member
Original Poster
Thank you for the reply! I got a voice mail from the vet tonight with the blood panel results, and apparently the doctor we saw on Friday was a relief doctor as the reptile vet couldn't make it in. I really wish I would have been told, as I would definitely had rescheduled. I didn't pay twice as much and get an appointment three weeks in advance to see someone who does not specialize in reptiles!! Grr. Makes a lot more sense now, though, how she didn't seem to know what she was talking about, kept referencing a 'cheat sheet' and the assistant was much more knowledgeable than the vet. When I call tomorrow I'm going to ask if I can go in for a follow up and see the real reptile vet to discuss the results and have him do an examination.
 

MsCarter

Juvie Member
I don't blame you a bit. i have received so much bad advice from vets, even had one tell me to feed my beardie pizza! I finally found a good Vet and I'm holding onto him lol. Best of luck to you, hopefully the real reptile vet will be much more helpful
 

CooperDragon

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
I agree. Those temps are just right and a dip into the 70s overnight is no problem at all. Having ventilation is also important so I wouldn't cover the top. Hopefully the regular vet will be able to visit with you and discuss the results in more detail.
 
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