Special Diet For a One Eyed Bearded Dragon?

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JadeDragon23

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My beardie, Seamus, is about 3 months old, and I've had him for a week now. When I got him from a local pet dealer he had previously damaged his left eye during a fight with another dragon over a cricket, but other than that was in perfect health. When I got him I was given the wrong information about lighting and noticed him not eating and becoming very lethargic because of lack of vitamin D. But after finally getting his UVB, UVA, and heat sources to the right levels he improved with appetite, weight gain, digestion, and activity. An employee at one of the many pet stores I've been to (a bearded dragon owner himself, his without a tail) suggested that I try feeding Seamus mealworms, since due to his impaired sight he might not be able to see the crickets well enough to catch and eat them. He loves the mealworms, but I've recently read that mealworms aren't good for a juvenile dragon. He's also not very interested in his greens. Does any one have suggestions on feeding a bearded dragon with vision issues?
 

SpacialCoogs

Sub-Adult Member
I'd go with the phoenix worms (aka calci worms, black soldier fly larvae) over mealworms. Even superworms are better than mealworms and I wouldn't feed those every day.

If you aren't in Canada you could look into Dubia roaches, if kept in a dish they would move around but not be able to hop out like a cricket.
 

SpacialCoogs

Sub-Adult Member
It's cheaper to order online if you can, otherwise pet stores will carry them. You could check with lindasgonebuggie.com (she's based out of Florida)

This is what she has listed if you live in the States. Here I can get a $100 count for $17 so I wish I could take advantage. She also carries other types of worms like silkworms and hornworms.
BLACK SOLDIER FLY LARVA
100 CTS. $4.00
500 CTS $15.00

Take a look at this article on how to fatten them up to make them bigger and last a while.
https://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/growing-phoenix-worms
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
Ashame he's lost one eye in an attack.

I'd avoid giving him mealworms , superworms and other low quality worms.

BSF maggots are an excellent staple feeder insect who will not travel or move fast, as are silkworms ( at his age he'll do really well on small (1.5" long) silkworms and can handle a couple of medium (2" long) silkworms without any problems , they also wont crawl off and hide or move very fast.


Try him on small (1/3 sized) crickets , and see if he can nail them , he may be able catch them as they crawl past him especially when basking.


Lizards can compensate for the loss of an eye.

Can you give us a run down on the basking spot temperature, cool and warm zone, substrate (bedding) , size of tank (dimensions) , your feeding schedule (when and what), lighting (UV source - exactly what it is and it's UVB rating) and lighting schedule.

Tips
basking spot temperature , aim for about 40degCelsius

cool zone not cooler than 28degCelsius during day, not colder than 21degCelsius overnight for a young hatchling.

substrate - NO particulates (no sand of any kind for a hatchling , no sawdust, no husks , woodships) avoid anything that's indigestible and THIS INCLUDES CALCISAND (that stuff is lethal when ingested).
tank - a young beardie can be raised in a tank about 100 LITRES capacity until it Is about 12months old

feeding schedule - a very young hatchling like yours needs a MINIMUM of TWO LIVE insect feeds per day ( THREE IS EVEN BETTER if you manage it ) , offer greens and grated salad veg but many very young beardies as hatchlings will not show an interest in the greens and salads - if they do it's a bonus.
As many insects per feed as he's eat , offered a few at time so he's not overwhelmed.

Handfeeding is OK and may be necessary with your little disabled hatchling, is a great way of forming a tight trusting bond with your new spikey child.

UV source should be rated at least 10% UVB and supply about 30% UVA too.

Lighting schedule , invest in a household digital 24hr timer, I recommend about 15 hours of lights on per day for a beardie.
 

JadeDragon23

New member
Original Poster
kingofnobbys":35rrlpyj said:
Ashame he's lost one eye in an attack.

I'd avoid giving him mealworms , superworms and other low quality worms.

BSF maggots are an excellent staple feeder insect who will not travel or move fast, as are silkworms ( at his age he'll do really well on small (1.5" long) silkworms and can handle a couple of medium (2" long) silkworms without any problems , they also wont crawl off and hide or move very fast.


Try him on small (1/3 sized) crickets , and see if he can nail them , he may be able catch them as they crawl past him especially when basking.


Lizards can compensate for the loss of an eye.

Can you give us a run down on the basking spot temperature, cool and warm zone, substrate (bedding) , size of tank (dimensions) , your feeding schedule (when and what), lighting (UV source - exactly what it is and it's UVB rating) and lighting schedule.

Tips
basking spot temperature , aim for about 40degCelsius

cool zone not cooler than 28degCelsius during day, not colder than 21degCelsius overnight for a young hatchling.

substrate - NO particulates (no sand of any kind for a hatchling , no sawdust, no husks , woodships) avoid anything that's indigestible and THIS INCLUDES CALCISAND (that stuff is lethal when ingested).
tank - a young beardie can be raised in a tank about 100 LITRES capacity until it Is about 12months old

feeding schedule - a very young hatchling like yours needs a MINIMUM of TWO LIVE insect feeds per day ( THREE IS EVEN BETTER if you manage it ) , offer greens and grated salad veg but many very young beardies as hatchlings will not show an interest in the greens and salads - if they do it's a bonus.
As many insects per feed as he's eat , offered a few at time so he's not overwhelmed.

Handfeeding is OK and may be necessary with your little disabled hatchling, is a great way of forming a tight trusting bond with your new spikey child.

UV source should be rated at least 10% UVB and supply about 30% UVA too.

Lighting schedule , invest in a household digital 24hr timer, I recommend about 15 hours of lights on per day for a beardie.

Thank you to everyone for your input, it's helped a lot. I've ordered some BSF maggots and tried ordering dubia roaches, but I live in Florida and was told the roaches are illegal here. I have smaller crickets but he refuses to eat them because he's gotten spoiled on mealworms. Even when I hold them in front of him, he just stares. I've switched to superworms dusted with calcium until the BSFL arrive.

His tank is circular with a dome lid, 18 inches in diameter and about 20 inches high. I use the Exo Terra Solar Glo all in one bulb for UVB and also a halogen flood for the basking spot because the Solar Glo doesn't achieve enough heat on it's own. His warm spot stays between 98 and 101 degrees during the day and the tank is between 78 and 82 degrees at night (degrees in Fahrenheit). I try to stick pretty closely to a 12 hours on, 12 hours off lighting schedule. Which seems to work well for him, waking up and going to sleep around the same time each day.
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
JadeDragon23":iido9wmt said:
kingofnobbys":iido9wmt said:
Ashame he's lost one eye in an attack.

I'd avoid giving him mealworms , superworms and other low quality worms.

BSF maggots are an excellent staple feeder insect who will not travel or move fast, as are silkworms ( at his age he'll do really well on small (1.5" long) silkworms and can handle a couple of medium (2" long) silkworms without any problems , they also wont crawl off and hide or move very fast.


Try him on small (1/3 sized) crickets , and see if he can nail them , he may be able catch them as they crawl past him especially when basking.


Lizards can compensate for the loss of an eye.

Can you give us a run down on the basking spot temperature, cool and warm zone, substrate (bedding) , size of tank (dimensions) , your feeding schedule (when and what), lighting (UV source - exactly what it is and it's UVB rating) and lighting schedule.

Tips
basking spot temperature , aim for about 40degCelsius

cool zone not cooler than 28degCelsius during day, not colder than 21degCelsius overnight for a young hatchling.

substrate - NO particulates (no sand of any kind for a hatchling , no sawdust, no husks , woodships) avoid anything that's indigestible and THIS INCLUDES CALCISAND (that stuff is lethal when ingested).
tank - a young beardie can be raised in a tank about 100 LITRES capacity until it Is about 12months old

feeding schedule - a very young hatchling like yours needs a MINIMUM of TWO LIVE insect feeds per day ( THREE IS EVEN BETTER if you manage it ) , offer greens and grated salad veg but many very young beardies as hatchlings will not show an interest in the greens and salads - if they do it's a bonus.
As many insects per feed as he's eat , offered a few at time so he's not overwhelmed.

Handfeeding is OK and may be necessary with your little disabled hatchling, is a great way of forming a tight trusting bond with your new spikey child.

UV source should be rated at least 10% UVB and supply about 30% UVA too.

Lighting schedule , invest in a household digital 24hr timer, I recommend about 15 hours of lights on per day for a beardie.

Thank you to everyone for your input, it's helped a lot. I've ordered some BSF maggots and tried ordering dubia roaches, but I live in Florida and was told the roaches are illegal here. I have smaller crickets but he refuses to eat them because he's gotten spoiled on mealworms. Even when I hold them in front of him, he just stares. I've switched to superworms dusted with calcium until the BSFL arrive.

His tank is circular with a dome lid, 18 inches in diameter and about 20 inches high. I use the Exo Terra Solar Glo all in one bulb for UVB and also a halogen flood for the basking spot because the Solar Glo doesn't achieve enough heat on it's own. His warm spot stays between 98 and 101 degrees during the day and the tank is between 78 and 82 degrees at night (degrees in Fahrenheit). I try to stick pretty closely to a 12 hours on, 12 hours off lighting schedule. Which seems to work well for him, waking up and going to sleep around the same time each day.
12on 12off is too short , I recommend upping to 15on 9off.
 
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