Feeder quantities for baby beardies?

Ok so literally just yesterday I was worried that my 8 week old bearded dragon wasn't eating enough because he only ate around 8 medium crickets and 6 Phoenix worms and only pooed once. But today he ate around 40 medium sized Phoenix worms and 4 medium crickets along with a small amount of mustard and turnip greens and pooed twice. What's the deal? Is that too much, would he get overweight?
He's pretty small (6.5 inches in length) but here's a picture
Thank you for any feedback possible.

8 weeks old .... that's fine.

I tend when I have hatchlings about that age to give at least two live insect meals per day (three is better) , as many live insects per sitting (a few crickets given at a time so hatchling isn't overwhelmed by bugs scurrying and hopping here there and everywhere) , and more sedate insects such as silkworms , blowfly gents , and I expect phoenix worms too) can simply be placed in the feeding bowl (silkworms on a bit of chow or fresh mulberry leaf) and left there for the hatchling to eat at it's leisure.
I know lots say give the lizard 15 minutes to eat the bugs , but for a mega hungry hatchlings and juveniles who are growing FAST , this is restriction is IMO not appropriate, I simply give the fast moving insects are few at a time and don't stop giving unless the young lizard losses interest - that's my cue.

If you have 3 different feeder insects - ie crickets, BSF maggots, silkworms , I'd do
brekky = crickets'
lunch = BSF maggots
supper = silkworms + greens & grated veg.

Very important to have the correct temperatures, and adequate UV and long enough photoperiod for your hatchling to thrive.

Photos of the tank and showing substrate and lighting and of the beardie will help too. Use XIMG button to upload photos from your computer. I remember seeing pictures in your previous thread ,

How heavy is he?
...... recommend weighing him regularly (weekly say)?

Can you give us a good rundown on the setup and schedules (light and feeding) :
TEMPERATURES ?
........daytime warm zone
........overnight
........basking spot
........ how are you measuring your temperatures ?
TOO COLD = SLEEPY DRAGON

UVA AND UVB ADEQUATE ?
........is the uv rated AT LEAST 10%UVB ?
........is it a COMPACT (curly globe & WATTAGE ?
or a T8 tube ?
or a T5 tube ?
or an MVB ?
........the brand (not all UVB compacts and tubes are created equal or as well , many shops sell their own brand (Zilla, All Living Things, Reptile-One, Nat Geo , Natural Selections (in green boxes) which are cheap Chinese clones made very cheaply using very poor quality quartz glass and cheap phosphors ==> very poor UV spectrum produced incl UVC band and bad parts of the UVB band)
........is it covered (in a domestic fluorescent light fitting )? == BAD
........is it sitting ontop a mesh top ? == BAD
........how far from basking spot ?
too far and the UVA and UVB WILL BE TOO DILUTE.
UVA FLUX TOO LOW where dragon is ==> a very lethargic dragon w/ a very poor apetite just in the short term ,
and neurological problems if this persists ,
not to mention MVB if UVB flux too low long enough with inadequate metabolisation of dietary calcium or inadequate intake out calcium

TANK
....... size (L x W x H) and construction , photos of the setup are often helpful .

SUBSTRATE ?
........is it sand ?
== BAD AND IF CALCISAND this is EXTREMELY BAD/LETHAL when ingested as a someone who came here looking for help found out the other day .
........is it particulate ? == BAD

SHARING TANK ? == BAD

TOO SHORT A PHOTOPERIOD (lights are not kept on long enough each day , will make beardie think it is winter , recommend at least 14 HRS PER DAY)

FEEDING SCHEDULE (I recommend at least 2 hrs lights/heat on before first live feed and after last feed of the day)
....... when are you offering live feeder insects ? what are they ? how big are they ?
....... when are you offering greens and other veg ? what are you offering ?

What season is it (there where you live) ?

and

weather can have an impact on your beardie's behavior, so what had the weather been like in the problem period ?

I see you have a mesh hammock - these are quite dangerous - as the nails of beardies often get snagged in the webbing and they can do themselves very serious injuries trying to pull themselves free.

I feed him medium sized pheonix worms 1.5 hours after lights go on, I feed him crickets around lunchtime and pheonix worms again around supper time. On warm side I use a 75w bulb and it's about 90-95 and his basking spot is a log which gets around 103 and his cool side is 78-82 and it gets to be between 68-75 at night. I bought a new reptisun 10.0 the day I bought him (which was on Thursday) I believe it is a 13w I'll have to go check the wattage on the box but it's about 6 inches from basking spot. It is sitting on the mesh top but I'm going to get some clips to hang it above, the only problem is that since he's a baby and I'm starting him in a 20 gal the glass is only 13 inches high so he could easily escape if i had the top open, I'm only worried about that because I don't want him falling and breaking a limb or he crawls under low furniture and we move it to get him a small he gets crushed, but I'm considering. The substrate is tile (got it from a hardware store and cut it so it would fit. His tank is 30x13x13 once he's juvenile/sub adult I'm upgrading him to a 55 gallon. Never used or using sand, Squirt is on tile. Not sharing a tank but I have an adult leopard gecko tank across the room from Squirt and he often does the wave motion with his right hand, does that mean anything? My lights are on 14 hours (they turn on at 7 a.m. and turn off at 9 p.m.). As I said above I feed medium sized (.3-.4 in) Phoenix worms for breakfast and dinner and medium sized crickets for lunch, I put in a shallow dish of veggies every morning containing mustard greens and turnip greens along with a small amount of bearded dragon bites for his prepared diet and i mist it and put it on the cool side (he'll only eat like 5% of it though). It is actually summer here and it just thunderstorms yesterday so I'm wandering if that stressed him but he never puffs up at me or flattens out. The hammock I only have because I got it a long time ago for my leopard gecko when he was a baby but never even took it out of the package so I thought it would be good for him, now that you that they are bad I am going to try to find a new one with no holes or bigger holes.

Here's some pictures of the setup: