Custom Stack-able Enclosure Build Questions

I am hoping to build some custom stack-able enclosures soon. I have decided on 1/2 inch plywood, either latex painted, stained, or both and sealed with polycrylic (latex sealer). I managed to get a really good buy on vinyl decking sheet which I will use for the floor. I may tile the walls, or use a desert background. Viv dimensions are going to be 4 feet long by 2 feet wide. I am not sure on the height yet. My current 75 gallon tanks are 20 inches, so I may stick with that, or go to 24 inches in height. I plan on using dome lamps for heating so that I can adjust lamps when needed. Fixed lights would not offer me the same flexibility and temps here fluctuate a lot (-15 C/33 F in winter and +38 C 100 F in summer). I plan on doing a swing out cabinet door, rather that sliding. May do a drop down door not sure yet. Vivs will be built as separate units that I can stack, with a roller base for easy maneuvering. However, I do have a couple questions.

If I use Reptisun 10.0 T5 or Arcadia 12% T5, what is the minimum distance from basking? I have read 9-10 inches all the way to 12-18 inches. Figuring out the minimum distance is going to help me determine the height of the vivs. So I can get correct heat using a 50 watt Halogen Bulb.

If stacking vivs, does anyone know if I need to stack with an air space between them, or if foam insulation between vivs is needed to minimize heat transfer from one viv to the other?

Any tips advice would be appreciated.

The T5 lights should sit around 12'' above the main basking area for optimal results. They can be a couple inches in either direction no problem but I'd shoot for around 12'' (You can also change basking site height to adjust for this).

I'd probably design it with a gap between them partly for airflow but also to allow easier access to lighting and wiring etc. If you don't want the bulk of a dome fixture or adjustable stand you can use a ceramic socket mounted to the top of the enclosure and hook it up to a programmable dimming thermostat that will compensate for temperature fluctuations (to an extent).

Yeah...I have never used a dimmer stat. Do you not have to have one for each basking lamp? Ouch...if you do. I always find the hardest part about viv set up to be the lights. Basking 6 inches at least from reptile...finding the correct wattage. Allowing for temp fluctuations. UVB height in relation to the heat lamp. How to mount UVB tube lower to get the correct distance. I am still playing around with ideas. I do not want basking too high as one dragon had a septic arthritis. Now she has a damaged joint so I am trying to keep things easy for her. Then once I have one set up, it just makes sense to have the rest follow the same formula.

Would vents at the top of the viv be better than at the sides...or should I do both?

I could mount light at the top and not inside the viv. Especially if I need space between the vivs anyway.

I prefer to mount the UVB light and then change the bulb wattage to get the right temps after that. That's why I like to have the UVB light and basking light as separate units (vs MVB or metal halide). You're right that it does take quite a bit of tweaking at first though. I agree that you should keep the basking area low and easily accessible in this case, so shoot for the UVB fixture to be 12'' above that. Some of the fixtures come with clips that you can use to suspend them from a wire or hooks. As far as dimming thermostats go, mine (Herpstat 2) controls two outlets. I use one for my basking light (set for dimming) and one for my heat projector (set to pulse, runs at night). There are a lot of options out there but they tend to be a you pay for what you get situation. Very nice to be able to automate the lighting a bit, but it's a luxury.

As far as vents go, I suggest vents low on the cool side and high on the warm side. That will allow for convection and keep the air flowing. Vents along the back are fine too but may not be necessary.

Thanks CooperDragon. I was already lurking on other post where you had specifically mentioned the positioning of the side vents and was already on that! Thanks it is a good idea.

So after some light testing last night. I think the viv height will be 20 inches. So far with testing a 50 watt halogen bulb, this allows me to have some options. I am going to be using a dome fixture, and not fixed so I can adjust the light accordingly, and fix in place basking areas out of plywood scraps. Lowering the top of the lamp to 18 inches give me temps of 110F, at 20 gives me 95 F. So I have a little wiggle room. I will then fix in place, either to the back of the viv wall or suspended from the viv ceiling the UVB at 11-12 inches from the basking spot (whatever position is best).

Lastly, If anyone can chime in at all. I think I will build out of plywood, and not Melamine MDF board. All the vivs I have seen all span 48 inches, but when I look up maximum plywood or MDF span it is suggested that it not exceed 36 inches. This of course would be due to warping or sagging over time.

Has anyone ever had any warping or sagging issues? What thickness of plywood would need to be used? I have seen some 1/2 inch and others at 3/4 inch. I would like to keep this as light as possible, but do not want to run into a sagging concerns over time.

I was thinking of installing a frame-less glass door, instead of slider style. This would be two doors with magnetic clasps. Doors would be mounted to the inside of the viv frame and in similar fashion to a sliding system.

I'd use a 3/4'' plywood and just seal it with polyurethane. If you put that into a frame of some kind I doubt warping will be an issue, especially if you start with a relatively high quality wood. I don't like the weight of melamine coated wood and MDF feels cheap in most cases.

Would a magnetic clasp be strong enough to keep a dragon from pushing it open? I prefer drop down doors and have pictured a thin(ish) wooden frame holding a piece of glass and dropping down with a latch at the top to lock it closed. It would need hinges that don't allow it to drop quickly in order to protect the glass from breaking. I also prefer glass to lexan (Etc) for it's relative scratch and haze resistance, although it costs more and is tougher to cut (I'd imagine, I've never cut glass before).

If I go with glass of any kind I will have to get it cut. But the glass so far is actually cheaper than acrylic. I personally like the idea of two separate cupboard style doors. I may do a wood frame style for extra locking security. Not sure yet.

I hear you about framing the vivs, but so far none I have seen are actually framed. I will be adding 2 to 3 inch reinforcement to the front of the structure so I guess that is some framing.

The way I'm thinking of designing them is to create a frame out of 1'' square wood with notches cut along the sides that will allow plywood to be slid into place. That will allow them to be disassembled and packed (somewhat) flat. Hopefully the frame will help keep everything steady vs just attaching plywood sides together directly. I still have a lot of testing to do though.

Ha, Ha, Ha . You have got to be kidding me. After reading your posts, and several of the crossfire design posts. I went back to the drawing board that night and all day yesterday. And guess what? This is the design I am putting together myself.

I really love the idea of the Zen Habitats design. However, in Canada I am always limited to supply, so we do not have that viv here, if we did, it would be way too expensive for what they actually are. So I tried to look for aluminum framing myself, unfortunately our suppliers in Canada only deal with companies and industries. Again, I am forced to buy American, and with exchange, shipping and duties...Forget it.

So I went back to the drawing board and brain stormed a wood frame design with slide ins, 2" by 2" if I need to, but 1" by 1" would be better. The frame would be fixed together with wood pegs and glue rather than screws, and all areas would be routed out to allow for a 1/4 board to be slid into place. I have decided on two framed, glass wood doors, cabinet style.

I found a place here that sells hardwood plywood, wow....1 store, all the other places deal with soft wood. So I definitely plan to buy the sliders in hardwood, I may have to settle on a soft wood frame. But with poly coats it should be fine. I will use glass for the viv front rather than acrylic.

I like this idea so much more, as this design will be sturdy, very light, and definitely stack-able. I have a friend who was a contractor and has all the correct tools, so this is an added bonus. Can't wait to see if my vision pays off.

Yeah sounds like we're on the same train of thought =). I'm looking forward to see what you come up with. I think it's going to be really great.