kingofnobbys
BD.org Sicko
This works just as well for
>> solid timber (or Perspex, PVC or fiberglass) viv which have sliding glass front doors
( the small vents are located on the warm zone end wall near the top, or in the warm zone end of the lid , the large vents are placed near the bottom of the cool zone end wall or above the cool zone in the lid (not perfect but works)
>> for converted glass fish tank (USA) style vivs which are usually supplied with dopey / worthless mesh lids, where the mesh lid is ditched and replaced with a solid timber lid.
Simply have some of these inserted into holes in the solid timber lid :
https://www.bunnings.com.au/haron-40mm-black-round-cupboard-vent_p0811770 in the warm end of the tank lid
==> only need 4 of these for a tank 2 feet wide to permit a small amount of warmed air leakage
==> want to force most the warmed air to convect around in the tank
==> means you'll need a lower wattage basking globe / MVB during the day and lower wattage CHE for overnight.
and two of these
https://www.bunnings.com.au/haron-285-x-270mm-white-open-close-wall-vent_p0810091 over the cool end of the tank
==> adjustable (can even be closed)
==> will draw "fresh air" in when a small portion of the warmed air leaks out via the small round cupboard vents.
People here in Australia use these types of vents in their timber vivs which have sliding glass front doors and the snakes, skinks, dragons, geckos, frogs and monitors don't suffocate at all. This is the kind of arrangement I've used for years for my two BT's 4ft L x 2ft W x 1.5ft T tanks and my 4ft L x 2ft W x 2ft T beardie tanks.
>> solid timber (or Perspex, PVC or fiberglass) viv which have sliding glass front doors
( the small vents are located on the warm zone end wall near the top, or in the warm zone end of the lid , the large vents are placed near the bottom of the cool zone end wall or above the cool zone in the lid (not perfect but works)
>> for converted glass fish tank (USA) style vivs which are usually supplied with dopey / worthless mesh lids, where the mesh lid is ditched and replaced with a solid timber lid.
Simply have some of these inserted into holes in the solid timber lid :
https://www.bunnings.com.au/haron-40mm-black-round-cupboard-vent_p0811770 in the warm end of the tank lid
==> only need 4 of these for a tank 2 feet wide to permit a small amount of warmed air leakage
==> want to force most the warmed air to convect around in the tank
==> means you'll need a lower wattage basking globe / MVB during the day and lower wattage CHE for overnight.
and two of these
https://www.bunnings.com.au/haron-285-x-270mm-white-open-close-wall-vent_p0810091 over the cool end of the tank
==> adjustable (can even be closed)
==> will draw "fresh air" in when a small portion of the warmed air leaks out via the small round cupboard vents.
People here in Australia use these types of vents in their timber vivs which have sliding glass front doors and the snakes, skinks, dragons, geckos, frogs and monitors don't suffocate at all. This is the kind of arrangement I've used for years for my two BT's 4ft L x 2ft W x 1.5ft T tanks and my 4ft L x 2ft W x 2ft T beardie tanks.
