Disinfecting Adenovirus in Viv

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Hi all,
Unfortunately Bernard was sold to us 10 months ago with adenovirus; we thought he went into brumation as it was winter. But in the summer months he didn’t get any better, we took him to the vets and ran lots of tests (£252.50 worth of bloods & screenings to be precise) and he had the dreaded Adenovirus.
Bern was wasting away and we made the humane choice to have him put down.
We have gotten rid of EVERYTHING in the viv. It is completely empty and has been for 5 days now since he passed.
His last poo was 2 weeks ago.
My son has autism and having a bearded dragon really helped calm him down. My local dealer has offered us a beardie at a cheap rate as we regularly buy from his shop. Which leads me to my question... DISINFECTION!

I have taken the wooden 4ft Vivexotic Viv apart (back to flat pack) and have used a 20% concentrated household bleach with warm water and a sponge to clean Viv thoroughly (to get in all the edges).
I’ve rinsed this off with soapy water, patted down, and let air dry.
Left for 12 hours
Then used a strong F10 solution once rebuilt to clean again using a NEW sponge. Once again, left to air dry for 12 hours.
I have then SEALED the edges using a silicon style sealant. This was on Saturday (it’s now Monday)
I sprayed the viv with a weaker F10 solution several times throughout Sunday and allowing to air dry between sprays.
Finally, I have put a strong UVB and heat bulb on which is at about 40 degrees C!

Have I done enough to rid the virus? I know there is no definitive answer. But I’ve seen posts where people have done less...

I just need some reassurance!
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
F10sc 1 part in 200 water maybe ?
F10 kills the following
f10-effective-against.png

ref http://www.f10products.co.uk/ebooks/hh326a/files/assets/common/downloads_52e48c86/publication.pdf , I am surprised the vet never gave instructions on how to sterilize the tank and hard furnishings.
 

JackCSmith

Member
Original Poster
kingofnobbys":2ghzdya3 said:
F10sc 1 part in 200 water maybe ?

Will kill very resistant a bacteria and viruses like rabies.

Sorry, I didn’t quite catch that? 1 part F10 in 200 parts water?
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
JackCSmith":f6lmvfau said:
kingofnobbys":f6lmvfau said:
F10sc 1 part in 200 water maybe ?

Will kill very resistant a bacteria and viruses like rabies.

Sorry, I didn’t quite catch that? 1 part F10 in 200 parts water?

Yes , I'd try it as a spray on at 2x or 4x normal concentration.

Spray on, let air dry for an hour or so, wipe away any residue , repeat.

The recommended dilution rates of F10SC are:

•General disinfection at 1:500 (2ml in 1 liter of water)
•High level disinfection against bacteria, fungi and most viruses at 1:250 (4ml to 1 liter of water)
•For use against the most resistant viruses such as Parvovirus or PBFD at 1:125 (8ml in 1 liter or water)
On my bottle's label.
 

JackCSmith

Member
Original Poster
Ok I’ve got F10CL; the concentrated stuff. ‘For use against the most resistant viruses - 50ml in 1l (1:20)’

Should this suffice or should I use the F10SC
 

MrSpectrum

Gray-bearded Member
If it were me, I'd call the vet who treated the dragon, and ask him/her how to disinfect against it.

FWIW, many reptiles can carry adenovirus and/or other pathogens asymptomatically throughout their lives. AFAIK, the best way to guard against it is an initial vet exam, and keeping the animal from contact with other animals.

disinfecting against adenovirus

YMMV
 

JackCSmith

Member
Original Poster
She told me ‘it’s hard to get rid of and I should google it’ (in a few more words) and that’s lead me here
 

MrSpectrum

Gray-bearded Member
Wow. Sorry about that; it sounds to me like a blow-off. I'd probably have said, "But I'm asking YOU." The vets in my experience have handout sheets for things like this (including care sheets). If you need/want to find a new vet, you might start here.
 

Claudiusx

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Moved by Moderator from Health to Dealing with Infectious Diseases
Threads merged.

Please only make 1 copy of your thread, it makes things easiest to just have all the information in one place. Thanks :)
 

Claudiusx

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Hi there,

Everything you've done should be sufficient at this point. You're right most people do less. But better safe than sorry.

-Brandon
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
JackCSmith":32hd6c86 said:
Ok I’ve got F10CL; the concentrated stuff. ‘For use against the most resistant viruses - 50ml in 1l (1:20)’

Should this suffice or should I use the F10SC


CL version is not the stuff to use for this , SC version is the superconcentrate that you NEED to use diluted.

So in short , you bought the wrong type of F10.
 

Claudiusx

BD.org Sicko
Staff member
Moderator
Just follow the concentration directions on your bottle, it's fine. All it means is that you dilute it less than the higher concentrated formulas.
It's like buying 3% bleach or 12% bleach. 12% bleach would require more water to dilute it to a regular cleaning solution than the 3% would. Both will do the same thing as long as you pay attention to your mixes.

-Brandon
 

kingofnobbys

BD.org Sicko
Just be aware CL version is targeted at avian pathogens and is a more expensive product .

You have to use more per dilution to be effective , diluted SC version is the more effective against a broader range of pathogens , is more cost effective and is the product vets use , and will leave ZERO residue on airdrying..

CL is 5 times more dilute the SC.
Recommended dilution rates of F10®CL

The high dilution rates mean that F10 is one of the most cost-effective disinfectant ranges on the market.
•General disinfection at 1:100 (10ml in 1 litre)
•High level disinfection against bacteria, fungi and most viruses at 1:50 (20ml to 1 litre)
•For use against the most resistant viruses such as Parvovirus or Circovirus (PBFD) at 1:20 (50ml in 1 litre)
REF http://www.meadowsah.com/home/f10-environmental-products.html
 
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